If you’re in EU I would definitely go for @3DServisas kegel pulleys
They aren’t cheap, but they are very, very good
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Does anyone know if dickyhos revised kegel pulleys fit TB218 trucks without filing them?
Thanks! I’m sure you’re right but I hope you understand that not everybody spends that much on pulleys 
Dickyho never let me down
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I have both. Lemme check.
Smooth rotation, no catching or binding. Do note that they’re designed for 12mm belts.
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Daly BMS is good but unless you have a huge enclosure the 15mm thick brick is going to want to take 5cm X 8cm of enclosure real-estate. D140 are $25 shipped if you order 2 or $30 if you order one from fasttech. Shipping is 6 weeks (some arrived last week). You have the option to upgrade to DHL.
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I have a 4.12 flipsky FSESC and i want to power additional electronic from it, something like 0.4A.
I know it’s a somewhat shitty hardware, i have plan to upgrade it but right now my noob question is on this specific hardware.
On the 4.12 description post, it says 5V 1A output for external electronics. On the flipsky product page, it’s 5V 1.5A. I’ll be conservative and bet that 1A is the real value here.
On Vedder’s PCB layout i can see that every 5V output for every communication port is linked together.
So my questions are :
- Can i realy power my 0.4A load out of a random unused 5V and GND pin on any communication port ?
- Is the 1A max is really constant or fluctuate a lot when you push very hard on the vesc ? Going up a steep hill for example.
- If it fluctuate, is there a strong possibility to see it drop below my ~0.41A constant consumption ?
I’m not that good with electronic and i don’t want to take any chances, if the remote randomly disconnect when i’m on full throttle because of some electronic voodoo magic it’s not going to be fun.
This is probably what you’re looking for. Testing to begin as soon as the boards arrive
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That’s some awesome stuff, i’ll look for that for my next big upgrade when i switch most of my electronics.
But right now i have to solve a problem in the next days using only the 4.12 hardware that i have 
.
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Don’t the lem regulators that flipshite use are super fragile anymore can case them to short and possibly kill your MCU. I killed one running esp32 with GPS. Less than 100mah
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In my experience, if the enclosure can fit a 30q cell, it can also fit a daly bms with a flipsky antispark on top.
If the esc leaves enough space on the side (dual? 2 mini’s?) It fits like a glove in there, meaning more batteries
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Erf, that’s the kind of hidden “feature” i was afraid of. Thank you !
I pack mine rock solid with cells if I didn’t use a 5v ubec I might have room. But my Daly BMSs are always benched too fat. They are great BMS if there was a Kevin Smith 2020 version of them I would use them exclusively Dickyho has them at a great price too.
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The 5V comes from the DRV8302 chip so you can find the real specs here
So the actual chip is rated for a minimum of 1.8A on the 5V supply but you need to deduct any current the ESC itself is drawing from it since the MCU and everything run from that.
I think you can pull 400mA without issue.
However, understand that drawing too much and killing your DRV will take down the MCU, your entire ESC, and you will lose brakes, in the event of a malfunction.
It’s best to use a separate supply like this for example
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Fuck your right I was thinking 3.3v rail. Still wouldn’t risk it.
Part I killed was the 5 to 3.3 reg.
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Sounds like the best solution to date. When the pcbs come out I put me down for 2
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Hey guys, quick question, not my first bms soldered, however its the first daly, and they want the tabs on the + terminal, however i soldered them on the - of the battery, safety and stuff (learnt it from you :p).
So do i need to solder the balance wires to the + terminal or can i keep them on the- tabs and move the former - of the balance cables to the + of the pack? And if i can do that will it be +,10,9 till 1?
Ok thank you, i think i understand what you’re saying. I looked around and frying this chip seems to be a common problem, so i won’t take any chances since flipsky’s quality seems to be total random.
I have a few buck converters back home and i’ll probably put one in when i get back. I was looking for a relatively safe quick and dirty solution that doesn’t require any extra hardware.
Meh it’s ok, i have other options and i’ll just ride slower .
When I hold my motor can and try to wiggle the motor shaft, there is no noticeable movement by eye but I can feel the smallest movement in the shaft. If I listen very closely, I can also hear the slightest movement in the shaft. Is this an issue with my motor bearings? If so, I have maytech 6734 motors and was wondering where I could buy the right bearings for them. I think this is causing my motors to make a very loud rattling noise when I push full throttle. If anyone has a link to a thread where someone has shown how to replace the bearings, this would be very much appreciated.
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This isn’t quite that, but you can get a general idea of what it will take
But first I would evaluate whether that’s actually the problem.
There is also this
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Thanks, that assembly post helped a lot with finding the bearings and seeing how to put the motor together. I just checked and there is play in the motor shaft on one side but not the other so I think it may be the issue of a bearing. Is there anything else I should be checking that may be the cause of the motor shaft moving in the slightest bit when I wiggle it?
Hey!
I currently have a 1wd 5055 270kv, focbox, 2 lipo (5000mah 20c each) setup.
Being really gullible when I did this, what is the best possible way to boost the torque in the setup (maintaining 1wd setup as well).
I’m thinking of getting a 190 kv motor, but am confused on how to change the battery setup with this change (or if i really need to). Not worried on range to much, prioritizing mainly on carry myself on the board.
Also on the eskate-builders forum, there’s a lot of links that structure the main threads. would be great to direct me there as well!