Question about discourse rather than skating: what do you folks use for uploading videos? It won’t let me post above 50MB so do people just compress stuff a lot, upload to drive, or only post really short clips?
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Unlisted youtube vids usually
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Yeah good shout, I’ll try that
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Whats shakin family. I’m in the process of extending phase wires on a Unity for my current build. I am also taking off the 4mm bullets in favour of an mr60. As I have to remove the bullets anyway, I’m wondering if I shouldn’t just desolder to whole wire from the esc and run one, uninterrupted 12awg terminated in the mr60. Less resistance certainly then extending the wire.
The question then is how difficult is it to resolder onto the esc trace? I’m a competent solderer but I’d trade a little resistance if the degree of difficulty is high and/or has a decent probability of damage to the controller. TIA.
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Easier than splicing a wire imo
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Which one? I’m only aware of a 10S-only one by Maytech.
Are there other ones commercially available?
Take apart used bearings and use the inner race as 7mm spacers.
Combined with 1mm speedrings and 10.2mm bearing spacers, this should be able to make whatever you need.
Spintend makes a 10s-20s one.
I have one, but haven’t installed it yet.
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By the looks of it it should be pretty straightforward if you have a high enough power iron that isn’t gonna half desolder stuff and take so long that you cook something. I lifted this pic of the PCB from another thread and it seems like there’s nice big pads on their own fingers for the phase connections
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yes you should. Then you can also check on the solder joints that came from the factory. Just make sure to put the wires through the silicone cover first, then solder them on.
easier than connecting 2 wires to each other.
as @mr.shiteside said, the pads are easy to work with (i’ve done it myself)
this is how the joints looked on my unity from the factory
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Ew
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I probably would’ve fucked that up.
This is one via bioboards so I’m sure the soldering is pretty good.
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I think they all originate in the same place. Do Bioboards or BKB or any other resellers do QC? I know BKB in particular do after-sales support, but it’d be interesting to see if they inspect each unit
Also saaaaame
Me too, that’s why i have cut through the segments to make 3 flaps. Now i can take it off whenever i want and it still holds.
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Pretty sure they do but bioboards waa replacing the 14 awg phase wires the Unity used to have w 12 awg so they would’ve re-soldered the trace then and likely done a much better job. That’s the idea anyway. Here’s ta’ hoping 
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There are unities in production at the moment sold by the scumbag himself that use 12 (I bought one from him earlier this year before I knew better) and I thiiiink that’s been the case for a while, or at least I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 14AWG one that wasn’t an original Focbox 1.6/1.7
I bought this unity second hand many, many moons ago. I have no idea how old it is. Old to be sure. I do have the original bill of sale. @mackann can confirm they used to sell these ‘modded’ Unities once upon a time. I’ll have to see if I can dig it out for shits and gigs.
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That should be fine, as long as you put some other spacer between them inside the wheel to replace them - You want to limit the amount of preload on the bearings.
I would recommend one speed ring against each bearing face, just to keep anything from rubbing on the shield or outer race, but after that you can use whatever fits over the axle.