Here’s a noob question. The mini FSESC4.20 (flipsky VESC), has a receiver cable ‘built-in’. I need a remote (obviously) and have been looking at Flipsky’s VX1 and that one comes with a receiver. I looked at the diagram, however, and saw that the receiver cable is not connected by that receiver cable on VESC, but instead by a ‘custom made’ receiver cable. My question is what is the receiver cable on the VESC for and what is the easiest way to pair a remote with that controller? If you have guides for this, you can suggest those
The custom cable you are referring to is probably the UART cable (wide black connector)
You can use either that one (plug it into the UART port and be done) OR use the built in PWM (PPM) cable instead. You just have to use the correct pins.
and this with your built in cable. (colors may vary) You can ignore the blue one. That just gives the remote a voltage reading of your battery which you can view on the 4 LEDS.
I appreciate this, but my soldering iron is quite bad. I struggled a lot even with soldering the connectors on it for the batteries to the vesc. And, I unfortunately don’t have all items on hand, or if I would, they would be more expensive (in total) than the anti spark switch above (which also requires soldering, unfortauntely). I was more looking for a spark-switch like the one above but with no soldering required (which may or may not exist). It is kind of the last piece of the puzzle, so I sort of want to get the board done as soon as I can, which is why I think an anti spark switch is the way to go. Even though it might not last as long as the loop-key concept
I normally would too but I’ve talked with him a lot and he’s a super helpful and knowledgeable guy which is why I was extra surprised hearing that specific of a claim.
I mean, this sounds more like a reason to upgrade your soldering iron. You can get a decent basic iron that takes T12 tips for about $40-60, or you could get an SH-72 for about $20-30. In either case, extra tips are a handful of dollars (I recommend a C4 or D4 for soldering big stuff).
Yes, you will spend more than the price of an antispark overall, but it’s a worthwhile tool to invest in, and really a good soldering iron is one of like three bare minimum tools you should have for working on esk8, along with a multimeter and a set of allen wrenches.
Any links or suggestions of epoxy or glue in the USA to use on threaded inserts. I received my eboosted combo but one of the inserts fell out and I need to reset it.
For glueing inserts, you’d probably want something better than 5-minute home depot epoxy. If you can find 10/20/60 minute epoxy, that’ll do it. Doesn’t have to be a special brand.
A good all-rounder is JB-Weld original 8280 (not the quick 5-minute version). Not recommended for use on motors or other magnetic things because of the steel particles, but it’s good for most other things, and readily available.
Basically any epoxy you can get at a hardware store that isn’t a “5-minute” type will be at least decent.
(“5-minute” epoxies are formulated for speed above all else, so they end up being weaker and more brittle.)
I really like Loctite 9460, but that’s a little more esoteric.
Best all-around epoxy I’ve found. You can stick inserts, do hanger axles, battle harden motors, seal enclosure holes, make fiberglass, and even probably make a deck with it if you wanted to.
The size selector on the Amazon listing is broken. Select the “UNITS” size which is 118ml
Is it bad to only load one side of a dual motor setup for extended periods of time? If I get a flat on a driven wheel, I can replace the wheel with a non-driven wheel easily in minutes, but then that motor side will have no load and be constantly constrained by traction control. Would that actually damage anything though?
No, it shouldn’t damage anything. Might make things act a little weird, but it wouldn’t be dangerous to the hardware.
If you can disconnect the motor from the ESC, that would also be an acceptable solution, as long as you make sure the motor and ESC wires can’t short out against eachother.
Removing the belt is a good way to be able to push a board with a dead battery home without the extra losses slowing you down as well.
