My board has been showing a weird throttle behavior the last few rides after not riding for 10 days.
When I’m at a standstill and start accelerating it does so for half a second, stops doing so for another half a second and then starts to throttle regularly.
This also happens when I’m already riding and let go of the throttle.
FW. 5.2 i think
Unity
VX1
Anyone had an unbalanced meepo hub when they got a new hub? Is there a way to balance them?
When you need google’s magic calculator / weather widgets, just add !g somewhere in your search and it’ll automatically take you to google. Or !gi for google images, !yt for youtube search, !a for amazon, etc.
Even if ddg gave unusable search results, I would still use it just for this feature 
Yes, I agree, the charging voltage is the voltage that brings the cell to 100% SOC (assuming the charge is allowed to continue until the current drops to the specified level).
I also agree that going over the charging voltage accelerates aging of the cell (and can even be dangerous if too high) and that staying under it can help extend the life of the cell.
It’s my understanding that the nominal voltage is determined by the anode/cathode material combination (the “chemistry”) for the cell and on the voltage sag seen during use. Not on it being the 50% capacity point.
To test this I went through the few dozen Samsung 30Q’s I use for charger testing and found one at 3.604V. Discharging this cell at the standard 0.2C rate, 600mA in this case, down to 2.5V gave me a delivered capacity of 1076mAh.
Fully charging the cell at 600mA up to 4.20V with a termination current level of 60mA, letting it rest one hour, and then discharging at 0.2C down to 2.5V gave me a total capacity of 3036mA.
The capacity of this cell at 3.6V is far from the true 50% point, which would have been 1518mAh.
The 50% capacity voltage though will probably be close to the nominal voltage since, around this point in the discharge curve, only small changes in the voltage occurs for relatively large changes in the state-of-charge.
That’s interesting! So then what does nominal mean? I always thought it was an indicative to the 50% mark. I believe that’s also what @BenjaminF explained to me as well 
It can be close to the 50% mark but because the discharge (voltage) curve is so flat around the nominal voltage there can be a wide range of charge levels for small changes in voltage.
This has led, IMO, to the nominal voltage just being called the 50% point by many to try to simply things. And this could be true. But it could also be the 40% point or the 60% point or even higher/lower. It depends on the cell and the particular chemistry.
I don’t know the specifics of how the manufacturers determine the nominal voltage. It’s gotta’ be buried in some paper somewhere though. 
Okay, so far so good.
Let’s say I have a 15S battery of Li-Ion cells. Their nominal voltage should be 54V, correct?
Assuming I am using a single hub motor , if I could choose between a 48V and a 60V motor…which one should I go for?
I think what I am asking is…should the voltage of the motor be higher or lower than the one of the battery?
correct. it would help if you just used the calculator 
just link what you want to use. the motor needs to be able to accept X voltage. it doesn’t matter if you choose a 12s compatible motor and run 10s. it really matters vice versa
First of all thanks for the link to the calculator! Gonna play around with that a little!
Okay so this motor
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/10-Inch-Electric-Scooter-Motor-Brushless_1600108897796.html
should work with an 11S battery pack, and a 15S battery would not work as it is too high a voltage, correct? (and yeah, I realize it is not an esk8 motor. I want to try what @tomiboi is doing: using a single, larger wheel at the back)
Motors don’t really have a voltage, they have a Kv and current limits. Ask the seller what the Kv is, and if they can’t tell you, then don’t buy it.
The voltage number is really mostly but not entirely for marketing reasons.
@b264 @PixelatedPolyeurthan
thank you so much. Without your help I would have made like the 12th mistake or so without turning a single screw. I really, really appreciate it!
this won’t work because it won’t fit on an esk8 truck.
I am using a CNC carved 90° adapter to mount the rear wheel assembly of an e-scooter onto the board instead of a rear truck.
…that’s the plan at least…
I will do that with all the potential motors I am currently looking at, thanks!
I hope this was solely to stay on brand, and that’s the version I’ll choose to believe either way
That’s because the insulation determines the max voltage and it’s parity easy and cheep most cables are rated to 1000v
CSA (thickness of the cables),winding length with the heating grouping factors determined the max amp age
Kv x voltage will determine the rpm
Wouldn’t the voltage indirectly affect RPM through kV, and cause the limiting factor to be the motor bearing max RPMs? Thus if you go too high in voltage, you could exceed the safe speed for the bearings?
The maximum RPM of the bearings in a skateboard motor is very significantly higher than the maximum RPM you will achieve with any reasonable voltage.
I wouldn’t say significantly higher, running a 192kV motor at 18S gets you 14.5k RPM, and some of the larger bearings for the can only are rated at 18k RPM on McMaster. That’s under, but not significantly. Factor in lower quality bearings, and that number goes down.
I have a couple of WeMos D1 mini, I’m wondering if I could use them as remote/receiver moduals to try and learn some arduino coding, 3d modeling and such