Adapters are available, just search around google/aliexpress. Or solder the correct connectors on yourself.
It depends on how much room you have in your enclosure and how comfortable you are with a soldering iron. The cleanest way is to put the right connectors on (either all 4mm or all 5.5.mm, both work fine).
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Is there any benefit to choose 4mm vs 5.5mm? Or it really doesn’t matter.
Thanks for the link. I did see that one but they are sold out.
Just noticed the second link. Thanks.
They should both handle 90A+ each (aka more than that 12awg wire is rated to). You should be fine with either unless you’re really going big.
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What’s a good soldering kit?
I prefer the Weller WESD51 but:
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Hey I’ve got overheating issues and would love tips on how to drop them if possible.
Torque boards 6380 190kv
Focbox
12s 6p 30q
LLT 12S smart BMS
18/72 pullys on Kenda 200mm
ATC aluminum motor mounts
Motor/mofset temp cutoff start 50C
Motor/mofset temp cutoff end 60C
FYI this is a custom board I bought from someone else. Maybe settings got changed up somehow when linking to a new phone and all that? Let me know if there is more info needed I’d be happy to oblige.
When it was colder i was running 70-80amps 40mph no problem ripping it having a great time, but have brought them down to even 50amps now, with a speed limit to 35 or 30 to help. It will overheat in ambient 70’s (~21C) and it’s just gonna get hotter.
Motors are canned, so I know that doesn’t help heat dissapation. I am also looking at redoing my belt setup because I have 2 idler pulleys and it may be creating too much resistance for it which also isn’t helping and have ordered new belts as the ones that are on it are too big to work with one pulley. Gonna try that when it gets in the mail because I know this isn’t ideal setup. I have also looked at adjusting alignment of the belt too but it’s spot on.
Is there anything else I could do? I love riding in the summer and want to do it more!
Thank you!
I did the same thing on my first and only at the moment build and really didn’t trust the solder joints from the ones listed on ebay, I learned to solder because of this and it wasn’t that bad. Plus this ensures your quality control on the connection
Raise these to 80/90C or 90/100C
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You could probably make a heatsink. It might help letting air inside the board instead of leaving the esc inside. Also, why is your motor/mofset temperature that low? Or am I bugging since I leave mine on 85°c
@Leon those were the mofset temps that came default for me so I didn’t mess with them. Motors are always ahead in terms of heat by a little for me.
Yeah, this 
85/100 is great
@Leon @b264 thank you guys!
I had a hard time finding reasonable temps for motors, was curious if I had the right numbers there.
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Reading this are you saying mosfet 85 motor 100 or both at either number listed?
Mofset at 85°c start since you don’t want those to overheat. The motors don’t matter since it will increase mofset. I don’t have motor tempature sensors and it’s fine.
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Good deal, I haven’t had an issue just want to know how to fix it if it did, thanks for the clarification!!
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No problem.
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Rather than getting corresponding connectors for the motor and vesc cables can I just remove the connectors on both devices and solder the wires together? For example the mesh splice technique?
I’d set it up so that the arduino is powered from the Xenith, and that way when the xenith turns off, the arduino turns off, the relay will also turn off, because they’re all getting power from the Xenith.
The relay turning off will cut power to the lights (which are powered from the battery through the relay).
The onboard 5v regulator can do a maximum of 1A IIRC, but some of that goes to running the ESC’s internal systems like the MCU and gate drivers. I would stay under 100mA if possible, because if the 5v rail fails, that kills the whole ESC.
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