Our web service is working on the mobile UI to make it work better. Give them some time and you will see…
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Okay. I was trying to buy a 4 wheel kit for belt drives, but I couldn’t see that as an option, so I’m just buying them separately since it’s not a kit… at least I won’t know since the site is playing with me.
Try to navigate on the sides, not on the tabs. If you want to extend something, tap and hold, then dismiss to see them again.
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That’s exactly what I tried. My phone doesn’t show where I touched, But the fact you have to hold the option is something I didn’t do. I’ll try that.
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mine only does it when i have the screenrecorder on.
You could go into the developer settings (android) and turn it on manually
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Your answers are all right here 
I have a modded hanger if you’re in the US and want one already made.
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I highly recommend not using bolt-on pulleys, they’re not very good
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Works for me (it didn’t for the longest time)
It worked for me if i clicked really fast multiple times but it “fixed” (completely broke) eventually. Now i need to search on google and specify the trampa site. Funny enough, google indexes the test trampa site but it needs username and password
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Each set of two holes are electrically connected. If you take off the cover, it should look like this:
- B- is battery negative
- P- is discharge negative
- C- is charge negative
- Large balance wire connector goes on the end, obviously
- The two black wires already on there are temp sensors - tuck those around your battery pack
- Bluetooth dongle connects to the small connector on the side
This diagram is a very good setup:
Make sure you understand wiring for charge only vs charge&discharge. It’s another topic to research. At 30A your BMS is rated for charge only, unless you’re running a <7s battery pack.
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Thanks I’m not going to do a loop key just yet (hold the criticism lol) is it a case of just connecting the b- to the negative terminal and and that will be it.
Obviously attach the Bluetooth module and balance leads and extend the temp sensors.
I want to by pass the discharge.
If you have an antispark already, you’re fine without a loopkey until if/when it blows. It’s futureproofing in that case.
At a minimum you need B- and C-, unless you don’t plan to charge your battery?
Charge port black wire goes to C-. You need a fuse.
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Yh I’ve got an anti spark connector QS8 which should be sufficient.
Oh lol Yh missed that with C- so negative port of the charger got ya thanks man I was getting baffled.
I kinda got my mind blown right now.
Remember me bitching about the speed with the vesc all the time? Since it’s speed was lower than the lingyi for example? (all on bench here) except lingyi got real world testing.
Every bench speedtest i took was with my almost 3 year old 10s2p pack which does not bypass the bms i think. I randomly hooked it up to my 10s2p molicel p42a pack ( couple months old) and it had a speed increase from 4-6km/h. How is that possible if I’m not pulling any load?
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Is your 3 year old 10S2P pack a LiFePO4 pack?
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Nope, 18650
@MysticalDork and @b264 Thanks for the advice!
I’m soldering xt60 on one end and xt90 on the other, would you suggest dowsizing to 12AWG or sticking with the 10AWG? Other parts in my build already have 10AWG, does it matter if I use different size AWG throughout the build?
Unless you’re building a racing board you don’t need 10AWG wire. If you need 10AWG, you’d know it. And if you need 10AWG, then you probably need 8AWG.
12AWG is 100% completely fine, and it’s fine to mix sizes, as long as the smallest size is your bottleneck, and that’s at least 12AWG. Even 14AWG would work but I don’t recommend it. A lot of commercial prebuilt skates use 14AWG.
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