Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Agreed, the Hex Plus profile on the Wera is quite nice. But unless you’re frequently installing and removing small or rusted socket head fasteners, a high quality tight-fitting hex key will do just fine. Particularly for a 3D printer, you shouldn’t be disassembling often unless you forgot the locktite. (also, damaged fasteners need to be replaced, not reused)

Wera, Wiha, Bondhus, and Eklind are all reputable brands that produce good hex keys at various price points. For half the price, I’d start with the Bondhus and upgrade to Wera or Wiha if/when they don’t do the job.

Once they didn’t do the job, then you have a bolt stuck in an expensive vehicle that has to be drilled out… or sawed off… probably destroying something…

I prefer learning from other people’s mistakes

1 Like

The easiest way to get out a stripped socket head fastener is with a slightly oversized torx bit. The ones that come in every cheap electronics tool kit work great. No damage to anything.

But I take your point.

1 Like

I give you an esk8 with a motor pulley stuck on by a grub screw with a stripped 2mm hex

Then what? Unbolt the truck and throw away the motor and truck and everything?

Or, you could have paid like $10 more for a quality tool and avoided the whole problem to begin with.

It’s not just the tool though, it’s also how you use it.

Anyone has tried these before? the core is kegel so compatible pulleys can be used? They are cheap and might be a good choice for a shortboard commuter like @b264 beauties

2 Likes

I’ve almost used them a couple times

I think @longhairedboy and @ZachTetra built with them

I’d roll those

2 Likes

Cool many thanks!!! Just planning to make something similar to @longhairedboy rona roller :love_you_gesture: so i’ll probably get these.

I’d try to find a pulley first, not sure how many sub-36 tooth kegel pulleys exist

edit: Nevermind, @3DServisas has 32T size, you probably want those

1 Like

How deep does the axle for the BN270 screw in?

Got some 60mm shoulder bolts and i don’t want to scratch the shit out of the fixed axle to break the blue loctite to find out… yet

36T is fine, you can run 18T motor pulleys or 220kv motors and it balances out. If you’re worries about clearance then 44T is the one you can’t do

1 Like

Anyone have any inner tube recommendations for evolve 150mm / metroboardx tyres?

For that matter, any recommendations for ali equivalent tyres that are of similar quality and looks?

3 Likes

random question but i have a package coming from the usa with usps and it said realesed from US customs 9 days ago and still hasnt moved since then.
any idea why or what i can do?

2 Likes

could be this

2 Likes

a lot of companies have been saying that for the past 6 months. also i got a parcel from usps a couple weeks ago which arrived in like a week. could be thats the issue just been waiting ages for this package to come.

1 Like

Is it a good idea to run an external charger/BMS combo and plug in the batteries and balance cables? I’m thinking about a simpler charging system for my dual 6S LiPo packs in series, as I currently have to charge them separately using a balance charger, which is very slow. However, I don’t have enough space to fit a BMS in the box, so I want to bundle it onto the charger instead. Here’s what I’m thinking:

  • Adapt the 13 pin balance leads to 2 separate 7-pin JST connectors, so I can plug them in separately to each LiPo

  • Build some sort of charger to XT90 connector that connects to the BMS, so I just unplug the whole series from the ESC

Would this work? Or is there a better way to charge them?

Why not make the box bigger?

I haven’t been able to find one slightly bigger. It’s either all around the same size, or the next size up which is considerably bigger in all dimensions. It’s currently the perfect size for the batteries, which I’m happy about.

But you could cut a hole in one side for the BMS and fiberglass over it. Some BMS are very very small.

You could also opt out of a BMS entirely and just use four of these balancing boards. They are tiny.

Then have just a fused two-wire charge port.

Ehh that’s a lot of work though, and it’s way easier to just duct tape the BMS onto the charger brick. I’m mostly concerned with tight wire routing, since 10AWG is not easy to bend in tight spaces.

In theory I could fit it in the ESC enclosure, but then I’d have to carry the balance wires up through the umbilical.