I ve chosen the second option, the natural TC on 50%.
YES, thats how my TC seeting is.
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Oh, trust me, if you’re on a mobile trampoline you will jump here&there, it’s quite fun.
I can’t give my opinion on trampa’s carvers, i am currently building my second board, a full mtb, and all the advice i can give you is to take your mind off the term “lightweight”, also, specify what high speeds mean for you
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keep in mind that it has to be rideable.
Expo would be too much, i tried that before and its unrideable bc the wheels slide bc of to fast tomuch translated power…so natural on 75% will be my next test and I will report back if i like it or not. 
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That seems slightly more reasonable, at least you don’t get a on/off switch as a throttle wheel. I just do -5% on the positive and +5% on negative, i also have about 0.3s positive ramp and 0.6 or 0.7 negative. The brakes were almost wheel-locking strong on my belts and i needed that time to adjust my position, now with geardrives geared for 78km/hr… well… i don’t know, too lazy to change shit
Edit for your seccond comment, 75% natural would be just 50% expo lol. Just put 2 buttons on the thing, one for accelerating one for braking
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It is not the first time I hear this, why is it? I can imagine that no matter how hard I try, the weight difference is going to be small, but insignificant?
I think that with my first MTB I reached 42km/h, I would not mind if this build could reach that speed if I wanted to, but it is not my goal. I prefer torque and range.
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Wheels, near 1kg each (~800g? There’s lightweight and there’s normal wheels)
Deck, 3kg
Trucks, 2kg
Drivetrain, 5-6kg
Wiring, enclosure, battery, another 5-6kg if you don’t go for range or 10-12 if you actually use the board for transport
Then you got things like bullbars, lights, bindings, taking another kg
You get something in the 18-25kg range if you don’t go specifically for the lightest options in everything. I think you can pull it in the ~15kg range if you really try, even 13kg if you go for 6355 motors and some nylon wheel pulleys/alu motor pulleys and mounts, but that is no longer capable of climbing much
Any thoughts on this helmet?
Seems surprisingly affordable for a ASTM-F1952 DH rated helmet from a reputable brand at $100 on the nose. Only thing I’m not sure about is ventilation, as it doesn’t look like there’s many holes in the shell. Haven’t really been able to find many reviews of it online either.
oh yeah i see that 
then 75% was too much, bc I tried that and scratched the floor in my apartment …so better off to try 55 or 60 first 
nooo, I dont like that idea just to push a button and the curve starts like programmed.
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Every size is out of stock, so it’s irrelevant.
You got it right, and I imagine you had that data in your head . I had calculated 16kg trying hard. 22-23kg without worrying about the weights. 5-6kg difference seemed significant to me. Still, I’m sure you are right and the difference is not that significant. Added to the fact that it is not the first time I hear this.
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Not where I’m looking. Also apparently it only came out like 2 weeks ago, which is why I couldn’t find any reviews at all.
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You bought a wrench that fits a 3mm hex.
M3 screws can’t have a 3mm hex, because there’d be no room for metal on the outside.
M3 grub screws generally have a 1.5mm hex. The listing should state that.
If the M3 screws have a 1.5mm hex, you need a 1.5mm hex wrench, not a 3mm hex wrench.
Or, you could just buy a whole set of wrenches, and not have this problem.
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How does one check for a good nickel to nickel connection? Is it just like the tear test we do between a cell and nickel? (i.e. if there’s some nickel left over on the nickel after ripping it off, it’s a good weld?) or do we just use the same setting as we did to weld the cell and nickel together?
Ask about its day, take it out to dinner, listen to it, and offer to take out the trash later.
oh wait, wrong connection
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Any one has any ideas on why the PPM signal on the first speed mode of the Hoyt remote is super horrible? It’s like trying to get a car to start and the engine doesn’t want to turn on. But it works when you decide to give it a push while holding the throttle. I don’t mind the speed it gives (for cruising), but at least have the strength to move the skateboard a bit quicker while it’s standing there.
Someone confirm my charger is dead.
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It takes multiple switches if the power switch to get the green light to stay on.
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The pins measure 50.4V but this is a 13s 54.6 v charger
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When I plug it into my bms and battery nothing changes, fan stays off
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When I bypass the bms and plug it directly into the battery, still nothing.
I already ordered a new one but I want to be sure I didn’t prematurely declare death
“Maybe you could cut that heatsink up and incorporate it into an enclosure” is my first thought.
I wouldn’t ever trust it to not burn my home down based only on what I’ve heard so far. I might not even need further investigation. I mean, so what happens if you get it to work? Is it trustworthy? I still wouldn’t feel cozy about it.
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Yeah my policy is if the charger doesn’t work exactly perfectly as soon as I plug it in I do not leave it plugged in. I have plenty of dollars but only one garage.
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Yeah I wouldn’t risk it, $80 for a new one and turn the shell into an enclosure or something
had to spend $120 for an Amazon prime version 
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