Me with 10s3p and pneumatics
Get the full set. £30 and you can only ever break the 1.5 and 2mm ones. On the rest all the possible screws you use them on are actually softer. I just gave my 8mm one to my neighbour to assemble a chair and it’s dreamlike compared to the tools it shipped with :)) always need an allen somewhere
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So here we go, dooood.
Left the motor amps at 30 and adjusted the throttle curve to +50% and the positive ramping time to 0.2.
Was on a test ride and this feels so much better now, still not perfect but much better. I will crank up the throttle curve up +75% and will try again.
peace
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Most, but not all, 3mm grub screws will use the 1.5mm size
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What the…
+50% has 2/3 of the available power moved into the first half of the throttle range
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Ok. If you say so 
schlimm?
You have to know my battery packs are old and they can get me just up to i would say 30 to 35 kmh AND the motors are pretty weak. Meepo or other hubs are much stronger than the motors i use for now.
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I mean, you still have the exact same power available, just press the throttle further. Also i recomment the natural throttle curve as it’s more gentle on the first milimeter of the throttle range.
If you are actually, truly getting more power out of them this way you probably have a uncalibrated remote
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No not more power, but I hate to push the throttle and have to wait 2 hours the delivery happens. I want it very responsive. Works good for me.
Remote is calibrated 
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How do the trucks dimensions (distance between wheels) and deck length affect the handling of a mtb? I want to build a mtb for 70% offroad use as light as possible.
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Good for you man. Sorry for interviening
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Others will be more knowledgeable but in short, long wheelbase (distance from truck to truck), the more stable but turns in a bigger radius. A bigger deck will make sure you can lean more forward and back without falling and will have more opportunity to be flexible, like jumping on a trampoline kind of thing, while a small deck may even force your legs more towards the wheels making jumping almost impossible
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Tagging in @Lee_Wright, @ducktaperules, @BigBen, and @moon as they have a lot of MTB truck experience 
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I knew it. It happened to me too.
häh? No need to be sorry. 
Appreciating every constructive comment and conversation.
We all like different boards and settings, so perfect formula here which fits on every rider, board or preference.
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Nice.
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@Athrx …sorry cant edit previous post
häh? No need to be sorry.
Appreciating every constructive comment and conversation.
We all like different boards and settings, so perfect formula here which fits on every rider, board or preference will not exist. My settings now feel pretty pretty, just want to try out 75% TC for science. So all good 
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Then i could understand that for a light 70% offroad and 30% onroad there is not much difference between a Carver and a MTB deck, right?
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Yea, just get a mtb if you wanna do offroad mostly. A mtb will do streets without a problem (beyond possibly limited speed), but a carver/cruiser/any street board with pneumatic wheels will NOT like anything more than some light trails
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I prefer a shorter turning radius for city, rather than stability in offroad jumps (which I am not going to do) and a lighter weight, to have more stability at high speeds … maybe the urban carver is a better option for me.
How is the urban carver with 8 " wheels? Won’t it be too high off the ground?
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Alright, alright.
Here, i got home finally, there’s your throttle curve
You get 75% of the power at 50% throttle, which kiiinda make sense? 50%, half of the power in the upper half (25% total) gets moved in the lower half and translated into a polynomial curve.
Here’s the other modes just in case you’re curious
Expo will be murder lol
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