Is foc mini plus stable?
how many S u running at? and what’s the amp u planning to pull? need some more info
1 Like
The hex-plus shape on the Wera are specifically good for not stripping small 1.5mm - 2.5mm sizes
The Bondhus don’t have that. These two things aren’t comparable imho.
Also, Wera aren’t immune to breaking. But they do strip less, which is typically the more common problem. They’re also sold individually if you break one 
2 Likes
TB6 or VESC 6
I don’t think I’d use one of the mini ESCs for a single drive commuter
1 Like
where can i find the individual part id for the wera set?
It was very difficult to find
search words: Wera hex plus key replacement individual à la carte amazon one
*these are linked here for search reasons:
4 Likes
i love you
2 Likes
i lost my green one somehow, most likely my cat took it and left it somewhere, so now i need to buy a new one
1 Like
Honestly, you could probably get by with a cheap, shitty hex key set, if you just buy these 3 Wera sizes. But for that price, you can almost just buy a whole set of Wera for a few more bones.
2 Likes
Agreed, the Hex Plus profile on the Wera is quite nice. But unless you’re frequently installing and removing small or rusted socket head fasteners, a high quality tight-fitting hex key will do just fine. Particularly for a 3D printer, you shouldn’t be disassembling often unless you forgot the locktite. (also, damaged fasteners need to be replaced, not reused)
Wera, Wiha, Bondhus, and Eklind are all reputable brands that produce good hex keys at various price points. For half the price, I’d start with the Bondhus and upgrade to Wera or Wiha if/when they don’t do the job.
Once they didn’t do the job, then you have a bolt stuck in an expensive vehicle that has to be drilled out… or sawed off… probably destroying something…
I prefer learning from other people’s mistakes
1 Like
The easiest way to get out a stripped socket head fastener is with a slightly oversized torx bit. The ones that come in every cheap electronics tool kit work great. No damage to anything.
But I take your point.
1 Like
I give you an esk8 with a motor pulley stuck on by a grub screw with a stripped 2mm hex
Then what? Unbolt the truck and throw away the motor and truck and everything?
Or, you could have paid like $10 more for a quality tool and avoided the whole problem to begin with.
It’s not just the tool though, it’s also how you use it.
Anyone has tried these before? the core is kegel so compatible pulleys can be used? They are cheap and might be a good choice for a shortboard commuter like @b264 beauties
2 Likes
I’ve almost used them a couple times
I think @longhairedboy and @ZachTetra built with them
I’d roll those
2 Likes
Cool many thanks!!! Just planning to make something similar to @longhairedboy rona roller 
so i’ll probably get these.
I’d try to find a pulley first, not sure how many sub-36 tooth kegel pulleys exist
edit: Nevermind, @3DServisas has 32T size, you probably want those
1 Like
How deep does the axle for the BN270 screw in?
Got some 60mm shoulder bolts and i don’t want to scratch the shit out of the fixed axle to break the blue loctite to find out… yet
36T is fine, you can run 18T motor pulleys or 220kv motors and it balances out. If you’re worries about clearance then 44T is the one you can’t do
1 Like