heat heat heat
Umm okay. Like in the cells, in the tabs. In a particular box or all over?
I never got to bottom with the problemā¦ But the petg was melting around the bolts / busbarsā¦ making the ātensionā in the connection go away. IĀ“m pretty sure, I would newer overcome this problems 100%, so I took another way
Ahh gotcha. I have either soldered wires directly between the tabs or used flexible wires with crimp connectors at each end. I donāt like busbar unless it is for mountainboard setups. Because it just sits in a box.
Silverline was using it for gokart. My understanding is that it is 2 factors. One, i suspect that cells are getting hot as they are pushed to the limit and second, NESE is capping on duty cycle plus single bus bar between modules. The problem could be resolved by splitting 6P to 2 x 3P. I would try first putting larger bus bar as the ones i have are 70A max, then you neet to double or tripple them or make custom ones.
Hey @Agniusm whatās the best way to connect these modules end to end? I want to create a 12s3p pack like this:
I have tested a method where you use a M5 threaded rod. It makes smallest gap possible but its fiddly.
You might need some M5 copper washers. Also i would use it on hard decks only
I have tested a 3d printer upgrade component and will be making 50 sets. If someone is interested more writeup is here: 3D Printing Discussions, Questions and Debugging
So to wire these in series I would just need a single threaded rod, and leave the other hole without a screw? Also, to tighten it you would spin the entire module?
Yes, except one for bms and ring terminal
Spent the majority of my after noon seeking what I can fit into the NeoOne Deck Compartment. Iām a complete noob in CADing so please bear with me:
I used the dimensions of each component to create the cubes. For the 18650 NESEās I added 12mm to their length since the Standard Fixings added 6mm to each side. Seems I canāt go past 8s using the 2spx packs. Iām fine with going 8s3p since this board is for an eventual Grad School Project. But this is only due to me wanting to include the Neptune 15. If I picked a smaller BMS. Iām sure I could get up to 10s3p.
What I wanted to ask though is that if Iām setting up this battery config right?
You canāt get Neptune bms shipped to the usa right now fyi
Really? Thatās fine , this is a year out project, So I donāt expect to order anything for a while.
Thank you for letting me know.
I am finally putting together my first battery (12S4P) and I am ready to wire up the BMS and add the charging port and power leads. I am using a Bestech D140 and I want to wire it up for charge only. Here is what I am working with:
And here are some instructions for wiring the D140 that I found on the Build Kit Boards site:
What do I need to do when wiring this to bypass the discharge functionality on the BMS?
The instructions that came with the BMS are not super clear and I really donāt want to fry anything. Any help is greatly appreciated!
That diagram appears to have the BMS output bypassed. It does not appear to have an option of having the BMS control the output.
Yes, the oitpit is not connected to BMS, otherwise you would have wire coming from P- on PCM as well.
How would you deal with overdischarge? Or everyone for that matter on skateboards?
I am planning to set the low voltage cut-offs in the VESC tool.
Is there sort of ignition switch?
I am planning to hook everything up like this. Minus the voltage meter.
Instead of dual Focboxes I am going into a Unity. I have one of the new Flipsky 200amp switches. But I am thinking about just using the built-in antispark on the ESC. I want to setup roll-to-start. Both the standalone anti-spark and the Unity should support this on their own. I would like to have no power button if I can get it working right.
I am switching to an XT90 connector on the ESC and I am planning to use an XT90s for the battery main connection. I built the pack with Molicel P42A cells and figured the XT60 that came with the Unity may be a bottleneck. I weigh 240lbs and like bombing up and down hills on large urethane wheels without things failing.
Has anyone in the US received anything recently from Lietuvos paŔtas? They told me it may take up to 10 weeks and some people have said that shipping to the US currently may take several months. NESE hardware is the last thing I am waiting for and this nice weather is making me jealous