You’ll probably want to use 2s4p configuration for the two modules on the right hand side at the very least.
Reason being i just made a mistake with the 3d printing, i send the wrong file to the guy printing it for me so 3D printing 12 new cases would quite annoying in my perspective, Just asking if it would work, not if its smart 
Also wondering, the connections atm would be able to sustain 100 amps at terminals right?
I’m trying to use what I have on hand, so instead of 3D printing another set of 12 8p groups I thought I would try and make it work to only 3d printing 6 more 2s4p groups.
Please elaborate, i’m having difficulties visualizing it, what can i say, i’m a visual guy
The difference between 4P+4P and 2S4P is that the latter has one uninterrupted 8P tab that connects the two 4P groups in series. For your right hand side packs that’s exactly what you want. Removes the need for the right-most black wire in your diagram.
This illustrates the idea nicely: NESE, the no solder 18650 battery system
Note the thin black lines that indicate the tabs inside the housings. The one on the very left side is uninterrupted. The top right group is one terminal and bottom right another.
Really not trying to say you do sometging stupid. Thought you are planning on building something not buulding it already 
What do you have in term of hardware and printed stuff?
Can you show us the pics of the module you have?
I thought of doing that, but I’m unsure of what the strip from one side to the other would be able to supply 60 amps continous
I have the 3D printed parts, I thought of using a dremel to cut out the middle piece to just use it as an 8p, but I have a small feeling that the 8p taps would be offset by the small gap from the seperator.
And of course I also have the board and other shit, it’s the battery I’m working on atm, not that its relevant.
Edit:
Look at the diagram
No worries man, I wasn’t trying to sound aggressive or anything, just trying to make it clear what I’m trying to do ahahahah.
Edit:
Also thought it was worth mentioning that i’m properly gonna do the enclosure in fiberglass and mount it with some strong as fuck velcro and a strap, so space really isn’t a problem, it’s just whats comfortable between the feet.
It’s just showing the ends. I wanted to see inside the boxes. I can quickly sketch up a diagram on paper once I know what you have.
I have nothing inside? ahahah batteries ain’t bought yet, neither is the hardware which is supposed to be the next thing when I decide what to do with my little situation
Anyway here ye go
Ok. You then need full tabs and use it as 8P. It is offset but just by 0.45mm and i made sure the nipples do not protrude too far from positive cell center. You will be fine using full tabs. Take flush cutters and cut the separator on the side, then it will break easy. Cut excess on the side with utility knife and put foamed tab there, foam will compensate for remaining bulge.
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Well, shit, you made a great design ahahahah. i’ll be ordering them taps soon then. The coupon code still works right? ahahah
Real quick question,
Do you guys know if running the balance leads directly on the series bus bars is better than placing the balance lead on the positive of every cell group?
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It’s the same. Doesn’t matter. Do what’s more convenient and saves space…
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Thx for checkin 
Didn’t want to make stupid mistake and have to fix whole pack
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nice bus bars
Have you pushed forward with solving the issue you have with heat?
Nope… To me it was sort of a dead end. So sold the battery , to a project with a less demanding power need.
What was the issue?