#Loopkey
I will eventually, for sure. That’s the goal.
V4 printing now. (in PLA bc it was already on the printer)
Recommended Print Settings:
- 0.20 layer height is fine (lower will only improve)
All the walls (20 perimeters, 10 top, 10 bottom should max it out - this is stronger than using 100% infill)- ≥4 perimeter walls, 4 top/bottom - # of walls is important to get max strength in the slider arms
- ~20% infill (i prefer Gyroid pattern for strength and speed)
- “Mount” set vertically (opening down), “Slider” set horizontally - this is important, see below
- Brim on “Mount” to ensure 1st layer adhesion, as necessary
No support requiredSupport on the “mount” may be required to get a good fit for the female XT90, depending on how good your printer is at bridges.- Should come in around 3 hrs for a set
(PrusaSlicer settings:) - Avoid crossing perimeters ON (to avoid stringing inside the cavity)
- Seam - Nearest or Aligned (for nicer surface finish / avoid zits)
- External Perimeters First - this allows for better dimensional accuracy on the “Mount”, which enables better fit between parts
- Thick Bridges - this may help the bridging on the “Slider” if you don’t use support
- Enable Ironing (topmost surface only) - if you want a very nice, smooth top layer
V4 notes:
- Needs qty2 x M3 steel hex nuts (13mm center to center distance for drilling)
- Needs qty2 x M3 x 8/10mm L steel fasteners (depending on thickness of enclosure and washers)
- Comes in around the same size as Mr. @Glyphiks design. That was the goal
- 74mm L x 33mm W x 17mm H when closed
- Needs 92mm length to open/close once installed
- 5mm gap at full-open (captured)
- Larger detent should provide a nice full-open lock out
- A few ergonomic / aesthetic chamfers and radii
- Larger cavity for the female XT90, so it should be plug and play even if use a 12awg wire to connect the pins, with coating still on
- Epoxy recommended in final assembly, to ensure the connectors never pop out and your live wires are sealed against moisture.
