I’m currently in the process of build first board and I’m looking for some advice on some of the parts.
The boards will be a daily long distance commuter solely ridden on asphalt, suburb/city mixed.
I’m aiming to get at least 40 km on a single charge and a top speed of around 60 km/h.
Located in EU.
DH Motor mounts and pulleys
2x Maytech Sealed 6374 190kv
BN 220 adjustable trucks
Boa constrictor 100 mm wheels
Deck (I’m currently thinking about the LY Switchblade, seems to be a well liked deck and fit for the purpose
Battery (I’m thinking about ordering from Acido, probably a 12s4p battery with 30q cells, maybe 40t)
Enclosure (Depends on the deck I guess, but most likely to go with one from eboardsperu.com)
Remote (Is there any remote with USB-C charging? Or perhaps a remote that uses rechargable AA/AAA batteries? Been looking a the hoyt puck, but it unfortunately has micro usb )
Is anything wrong with my build, or is it something I should consider changing? I’ve tried to gather as much information as possible, but I might have missed something crucial.
I think I need some advice on the deck. I’m not to sure what deck I should go with since the availability is pretty bad atm. The landyachtz switchblade seems like a fine choice, and I want something where I can get a nice enclosure without too much hassle that fits the bill.
Do you think It would be worth it go with a different battery setup? I’ve been considering 10s5p for the extra range, but 12s seems more future proof considering my other parts.
That aint gonna happen unless you are riding 10kph everywhere you go. On flat ground. With a tail wind.
My 12s4p of p42a (ever so slightly better than 40T) can just BARELY get me 20 miles (32km). Granted, thats on pneumatics, and youre looking at urethane. But if you are going any kind of speed, then you are gonna need more p-groups to consistently get 40km’s on a charge.}
Also, if you really want to use this thing daily for that type of range, depending on your roads you might want to consider pneumatics.
At least really think it over because if you change your mind later, your battery might not make the range you want after swapping.
True, didn’t really consider that factor. Although I wouldn’t say 40 km range to be a hard limit (despite my poor wording of “at least”), more something I’m striving for. If I get 30 km that’s good enough, but I’m aiming for something around 40 km. I’m relatively lightweight at 67 kg so should help a fair bit. I appreciate the help, I’ll reconsider the battery.
Good luck with your build, it sounds like a pretty nice one
I also have a switchblade that I am electrifying, it is a very good deck, your feet feels locked in, without having to use bindings. But there is just one problem with the deck, and that is wheelbite. If you drop the truck through depending on how loose of a setup you prefer, you can have wheelbite even with 90mm wheels, anything above 90mm I recommend top mounting. With the truck you ordered, there is no way you can fit pneumatics, unless you get a wheelbase extender bracket like this:
For the battery I recommend using the P42A cells, and ordering from Acido. He has amazing prices and know how to build good batteries.
Depending on whether you want everything in the enclosure on the bottom, or you willing to fit the ESCs up on the tail of the board, you can get a 12S5P of P42A to fit, if you are interested in the layout for that, let me know and I can search for the picture. Otherwise go for 12S4P. Dont bother with 10S5P, it’s not worth it
As for the remote, you can use a magnetic micro USB charging plug, like i am using for my VX1. You plug this into the micro USB port:
And it automatically connects if you move the cable close enough, without you ever having to care about the micro USB braking:
Just make sure to get a quality one, some of the cheap ones tend to be loose. This was a little bit more expensive than the entry level ones, about 12€, but I am sure you can get good ones a little cheaper if you want.
I saw this in an old Lee Wright video btw, he’s a legend .
Highly recommend the Switchblade deck! With eboosted’s enclosure you won’t be able to do drop through with just Urethane wheels though (which is good because you’d definitely get wheel-bite otherwise). I’ll do a clearance check for you with that hanger size and wheels, since I’m also considering a urethane build with that deck… Worst case, you can use Surf Rodz trucks, which extend the wheelbase by around 18mm on each side
Also: where in Europe are you? My streets are good enough for 100mm wheels, but places like the UK aren’t…
Also: I’d say you get around 35km of range with that battery pack. If your commute both ways is more than that, then just get a fast charger
This is good to know. I haven’t really considered pneumatics, but I might wanna try it out in the future.
Seems like a lot of people like these! I’m leaning towards a 12s4p with these cells, that way I get both better performance and greater range. Since the stormcore is a dual drive esc, there should be plenty of space left.
That’s a pretty neat idea! I’ve seen them in the past but didn’t consider them for this, could be a good solution!
It really depends on the setup and combined weight of the board + rider as well. Not to mention the surface and the way you ride of course… For example, here is a ride with Bergs, 2x6380 motors, Unity and 12S4P P42A pack. 10.4 Wh/km when you factor in regen. Easily 50 km range, probably more.
No way bergs do 10wh/km?? Although you were very conservative the entire ride…
@FreezingShrine a 12s4p 30Q pack should get you close to 50km if you ride conservative on mostly flats, all the way to the end at 3.0v/cell, on urethane.
On pneumatics, it will straight up do half of that, as a base point. Some wheels are better balanced, produce less drag (aliexpress 6x2 tyres warm up a fair bit. For example. Efficiency loss), let’s say you can stretch it to 30km riding the same way and route as the urethane wheels, or slam the throttle and get this:
I am running about 50 psi on them so that might play a part. I have checked that my top speed and traveled distance seem to be accurate. Bearings are in great shape with very thin oil and belts are quite loose thanks to the idler motor mounts.
The prices are really really good from @Anubis. For a 4P setup I recommend 4A. In 4P you can only go with 8A with P42A, and that decreases the lifetime of cells, so if that bothers you get 4A chargers.
I also recommend getting a smart BMS with the battery, if you get one, you can check the balance of the cells from your phone and also set the parameters for the BMS. If something goes wrong, it’s easier to diagnose the problem. If you see unbalance between the cell voltages, you can manually turn on balancing, and that avoids getting further problems with your battery. On the other hand, if you get a regular BMS built into your battery pack, chances are that you will only notice unbalance when a P group is dead, and it’s already too late. The smart BMS is also neat if you want to check the percentage of the remaining energy in the battery from your phone.
The thing is, while you charge the pack, 8A charge heats it up. And since it’s a constant 2A per cell, the heat builds up over the 2-3 hours of charge time, and it has nowhere to go, it can’t really escape the tons of insulation and the enclosure. You should watch out for the temperatures of the pack if you charge with 8A. If it doesn’t get too hot, by all means go for it.
Mooch also has tested them and in this picture you can see that 1A is the max for the maximising the lifetime.
1.6A seems alright to me, 2A should be tested. Or maybe buy one 4A and one 8A charger, and use the 4A when you are not in the hurry and when you are in a hurry the 8A will be fine.
I have an 8A charger but I have a 5P config, so 1.6A per cell, which is about 30% less heat. I will check how hot it gets once I finish my enclosure, hopefully on the next weekend. I don’t want to charge it up, unless I know for a fact that my vescs are working (they are cheap focer 2s, and because I soldered them, who knows whether they will let the magic smoke out lol). I also haven’t decided on where exactly I want to mount them, I only know that they won’t fit in the battery enclosure below the switchblade. In the battery building thread when I was asking about my battery config, you said that you will also mount the ESC up, probably on the tail. Have you finished that build yet? Where and how did you mount them in the end?
I hope next weekend or the weekend after my board will be mostly done and I can charge it up and put everything together. I will make my own build thread when it will be finished.
Thanks for checking! Hmm, seems to be quite problematic then if I wanna use caliber style trucks with the switchblade, regardless of how I mount them. I’ve considered both the LY evo and the hummie deck as well, but both are unavailable atm afaik. What would your recommendation be if I still wanted to go with the BN220 trucks, and assuming I’m using 100 mm wheels + risers?
Hummies should become available pretty soon. Like in the next few days, maybe weeks soon. I use mine with boardnamics 220mm caliber hangers, drop through, with pneumatics. @Anubis will sell a few i think
A double stack hummie could fit a 12s8p 30Q battery which would meet your range requirements. I would probably choose the Hummie over the Evo just because it’s slimmer due to the batery cutout, although I’ve never tried an Evo, so maybe someone who’s tried both could weigh in.