Some Feedback/Direction on my First DIY Build

Yeah I was thinking it might be tricky… that might just be enough to sway me to go for the 40’… only two extra inches for that 5P. And that’s a beautiful drawing - tells me everything I need to know :smile:.

Yup I’m also planning on going with those P42As. Looking forward to seeing your build completed soon!

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Can you send me the stormcore dimensions? I can tell tomorrow whether it would fit. I pretty much maximised the space in my enclosure, so if it wouldn’t fit into mine, than it would probably not fit into any switchblade enclosure :stuck_out_tongue:
The battery is huge btw, 58cm long, on the side where there are 8 packs, and 56cm long with the BMS I use (LLT smart BMS) on the side there are 4 packs + the BMS. The width of the pack is about 19cm. There is like 6 or 7 cm * 19cm left in the enclosure for the ESC and everything else on the end. I am not too sure whether the stormcore would fit, but you will definitely have to go for a dual VESC because otherwise the extra wiring harness (the parallel connector) would take up too much space. I can take exact measurements of the space left on the weekend. :slight_smile:

Oh btw. If you go for the stormcore get the 60D, the 100D is not good unless you actually go above 15-16S. It has more resistance so for the same amperage it heats up more.

Alright, I test fitted the 12S5P P42A battery that’s made with the layout I sent above. I can safely say that you won’t be able to fit any ESC in your battery enclosure.

So you either have to get a 12S4P pack or another enclosure that you can put on the tail of the board with the ESCs. On the other hand, I don’t think that 12S5P 21700 would fit at all on the 38 inch version of the switchblade. Even if it would fit, it would be very very tight.

Thanks for laying that out. Yeah that is already quite tight… are you doing a separate enclosure for your ESC? I am starting to lean further to the 40’’. One thing I was thinking, I haven’t seen anyone consider a double stack for the switchblade. Found this example from the old forum. It looks like there should be plenty of clearance still under the board. I’m using TB 110s and not planning on going any smaller. Would there be any negative to a double stack battery and taller enclosure?

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I have a seperate enclosure for the ESCs that will be on top of the tail like how most people mount the ESCs to a mountainboard.

The more clearance below the enclosure, the better. With this setup I won’t be going over speed bumps unless I get an AT setup. There is only one switchblade 40 double stack build I have seen, and thats on AT wheels. I also saw a picture of @glyphiks making a double stack switchblade enclosure. I would love to know more about that build :smiley:

On the other hand, mounting big wheels on a switchblade requires some creativity. You either have to increase the wheelbase or get a really wide truck for AT wheels. To some extent, double kingpin and TKP trucks can also help fitting big wheels. For TB110 you will be fine with BN trucks tho afaik. @rusins I know you are an expert on this deck, maybe you could comment something for the wheel clearance.

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I’m using AT wheels on mine, but I have stupidly wide hangers and there’s a chance I’ll get bite on hard turns. Of course, if you use Surf Rodz / TKP trucks AND extend the wheel-base by an inch like in Eboosted’s build and only use like 45 degree trucks, you can get away with Bergmeisters because they’ll fit right in the wheel-well gap.

Personally I’m thinking of making a build with the switch-blade, 110s and 3d servisas gear drives on their surf rodz hanger. Won’t be drop-through though, but that’ll be a while away.

I would also recommend against a fat double stack on the bottom. If you routed the deck and used a thick gasket you could do a staggered 18650 double-stack, but the deck would flex way too much then. A box in the middle like mountain-boards do would make for a nicer ride.

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Alright I’ve been pretty busy and it’s been a few days, but finally have some big updates. Going to start with batteries and layout but more to follow shortly:

The first thing I did last week was order a 40" switchblade deck and 60 P42As so I could start playing around with layouts and battery options. I definitely wanted to build the battery myself but I didn’t want to shell out for a spot welder for my first build. While researching I found the NESE and @Winfly compression holders and decided that the Winfly modules would work best for me. I printed a few of the 21700 holders to play with. Was thinking of going with a 12s5p made of the flat 1s5p modules, and trying to squeeze everything in like @Dinnye, but then I saw some images of stacked Winfly modules and thought I’d give those a look as well. Well there were no STLs of the Winfly stacks on thingiverse, and I was keeping all of your recommendations on enclosure size in mind. So I thought to myself, why not create a custom 2s5p staggered stack, but somewhere in between a normal double stack and a flat stack to save vertical space. So I opened up solidworks and in a few hours whipped up something almost identical to Winfly’s design, but staggered and double-stacked. And since the cells are spaced out a bit more here than a normal doublestack (35deg angle between cells instead of the normal 60), I was able to reduce the overall height the double-stack pack takes up. The 1s5p holder from Winfry is just over 1" and my double-stack is just under 1.5" vertically. You can see from the images below that the horizontal distance is just longer than the 2s4p, and is much shorter than the flat 2s5p packs. What do you guys think about a solution like this? Keeps vertical space to 1.5" instead of the 1.8" of a normal 60deg staggered double-stack or 2" of a non-staggered double-stack. Seems like it should fit horizontally just fine, even though it is less compact than the other double-stacks. And I should be able to fit 6 of these holders in the enclosure easily for 12s5p.

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Onto trucks, responding to feedback from both @Dinnye and @rusins here:

The differences in truck options and compatibility with the switchblade deck / wheel cutouts is something I really don’t know anything about yet. I’m not familiar with Surf Rodz trucks, but it seems like they are really good for increasing wheel clearance based on what you guys have said. Is this true for any TKP truck or is Surf Rodz the go-to recommendation around here?

I am starting with the TB110’s but one of the benefits of the new Boardnamics gear drives seems to be that they can fit both kegel core and bergmeisters, so I can switch later down the line if I want to try them out. I don’t know what the process is for extending wheel-base as @rusins mentioned… could I do this later down the line or is this something I should be thinking about implementing in my build now?

@rusins you also mention you are thinking of going with the 3d servisas drives and “their surf rodz hanger”. Is this a particular hanger that 3d servisas sells or did you mean going with one of those gear drives and getting the surf rodz hangers separately? Would there be any issue with going with the fatboy hangers that are sold with the drives instead? Would the 260mm fatboy work on the switchblade or would that still cause me problems with wheel bite?

@Dinnye you mentioned that you think the switchblade should be fine with TB110s and the Boardnamics trucks. I’m keeping an eye on the BN M1 gear drives coming out soon and if I can snag one should I stick with the 220mm BN trucks or get trucks separately? Would the Surf Rodz trucks work with either the BN or 3DS gear drives if I wanted to get the drives only?

Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate all the experience and information you guys have to offer. I’m going from knowing jack shit about esk8 a month ago, to hopefully getting a beast of a first build ready within a few weeks thanks to you guys and this forum! I seriously almost pulled the trigger on the Revel kit like only two weeks ago, no board yet but happy I didn’t.

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Okay, so:

There are also Bergmeister hubs available with the kegel hole pattern, so you can rock Bergmeisters on any kegel gear drive that way. There are also Bergmeister adapters for 3d servisas urethane drive if you want to go that route. Just so that you know there are plenty of options to choose from :smiley:

Yep, drilling new holes / making a support plate out of some scrap metal can be done later down the road / if it turns our you need it, no issue there.

Although it’s not advertised on their site, I believe 3d servisas still sell 260mm FatBoy hangers for RKP trucks. I’m not 100% certain, but I believe I saw a picture of someone having them, and they also have rake, just like the standard Surf Rodz hangers, which is good for a few mm more clearance. The width isn’t that important though (well, it’s enough for mounting dual 6355 in reverse, which is good), but as you can see in the picture, Surf Rodz RKP trucks have the hanger further back than caliber trucks, so if you use 100mm wheels / a riser pad / 45 or lower degree trucks / just mount the trucks 1 hole further back, you won’t get wheel-bite :slight_smile:

I’m pretty sure BN gear drives will only work for his hangers, and 3d servisas drives definitely only on fatboy hangers.

Any TKP truck I think…

Or if RKP, then Surf Rodz or Kahua trucks are the only ones I know of that extend the wheel-base relative to the mounting holes.

Or DKP trucks :stuck_out_tongue:

It looks pretty good! This staggered layout is good I think. Will still get you enough clearance if you make the enclosure for the exact size (mine would fit 18650 staggered easily, I just wanted to be sure it works for the first time, so mine is a bit bigger than it should be :stuck_out_tongue:). How wide is the assembly? The deck is about 23cm wide in the narrowest spot, I wouldn’t recommend any battery width above 18.5cm. My 18.7cm battery fits the enclosure pretty tight, and the enclosure is just wide enough so I can screw it down. No way to make a wider enclosure than mine. The screws barely fit already. I don’t think all the washers that I wanted to use will fit either. 18.5cm is the max width that you can realistically go with.

As for the trucks, I think the BN220 would fit the TB110 while top mounted and running tighter bushings. I am not 100% sure tho, you should take rusins’s advices on this. I am sure the Surfrodz hangers would fit, I haven’t heard of any thane gear drives for that tho. Worst case scenario is you have to buy IdeaTB wheelbase extender brackets.

Nice job! that design from a while back is really versatile. for anyone with any CAD experience, you can easily clone it for w/e configuration and spacing your want. the only down side is the assembly takes quite long. Im glad ppl are iterating on it.

Some more updates here! Sorry for the lengthy time between responses. You guys are all so good at answering my questions right away. Still sorting through all of the knowledge on this forum and buying parts left and right and I’ve had to force myself to put this project to the side at times.

Trucks
I purchased one of the @boardnomics M1 gear drive kits with the 220mm hangers and base plates to go with. Super happy with this decision, much cheaper than some of the alternatives (although I’m sure they’re great as well) so this lets me save a few hundred on what is turning into a pretty expensive first build. @rusins not sure what you’re thoughts were on the BN trucks for wheelbite, think this will work? Will using the BN adjustable baseplates help with clearance?

Batteries
Okay so after playing around with the custom staggered double stack, I decided I’ll try to stick with the single stack because I do really like the idea of having a slimmer enclosure/profile. I also decided to take a stab at creating a custom 3D printed enclosure in PETG, just for fun. I have most of the materials needed to make a fiberglass enclosure, but I really like what I was able to model up in CAD so I’m hoping this works instead. Might even add a layer of fiberglass or something to the interior for support but we’ll see how strong this comes out. Printing it now. I did a few test prints (very rough ones in image below) and think I have the curvature dialed in nearly perfectly. For anyone wondering, its name “Blue Arrow” is Jamal Murray’s nickname, the Denver Nuggets guard who just exploded in the NBA playoffs this year.

VESC
I went with the stormcore 60D and was surprised by how much smaller it was than I was expecting. I measured everything out and think I can still fit this guy and 12s5p single stack batteries in my new enclosure design. But worst case I can adjust the fourth module of the enclosure at the end to provide a little more room for everything if I need it.


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@Dinnye how’s your switchblade build coming along?

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I still need some time, hopefully it will be finished some time next week.
Here’s a pic

I will make my own build thread if it doesn’t blow up once I plug everything in :laughing:

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you’ve already bought them; it’s too late to discuss that now :stuck_out_tongue:

Enclosure looks good! How did you get the model for the bottom concave? Also you definitely want to fiberglass enforce it if it will be holding the battery weight.

Looking good so far! Yeah I’m amazed at how involved these builds are. I’m starting to pick up pace but feel like I’m still probably a month or so away, then again still more or less a noob here so maybe that’s making good time :man_shrugging:

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DENVER WOOT WOOT! I’m in Aurora if you need a hand with the build. Plus I’m always up for meeting/riding with new people.

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Yeah haha I couldn’t help myself! I was following the launch thread and they looked so good and had so much hype that I didn’t want to risk them running out of stock. Seems like there should be a way to get them to work though… or I guess I’ll have to find a way lol

I looked for a model but I just used calipers and some basic rough measurements to create some splines for the curves. After two or three quick iterations it was spot on! The trickiest part was probably the sides where the enclosure lip is about 10deg angled near the center but needs to be level at the ends.

I was thinking about strapping everything to the deck rather than enclosure. Any negatives to doing this? Could definitely switch to the enclosure and reinforce though.

I’ll be down to ride as soon as it’s built! Really hoping to get this finished in the next month or so before we get to winter temps. We’ll see how it goes but I may try to take you up on that offer for help lol.

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No real negatives, just a bit trickier to work with. I tried using velcro with bolts holding it, but the bolts ripped through :grimacing: I bet if you search for some older build threads you can find people who have done it successfully.