I thought so as well but my logs say otherwise 
I am running about 50 psi on them so that might play a part. I have checked that my top speed and traveled distance seem to be accurate. Bearings are in great shape with very thin oil and belts are quite loose thanks to the idler motor mounts.
Yeah, my top speed and traveled distance also agree with my phone GPS.
I’m located in Sweden, Stockholm specifically. My current board (WowGo 3X) use 90 mm 78 A wheels, and it works pretty well but I wouldn’t mind getting some that are a little bit bigger.
Yeah, I’ll probably get an extra charger to place at work just in case I forget to charge at home 
You should get the chargers from here 
I also recommend getting a smart BMS with the battery, if you get one, you can check the balance of the cells from your phone and also set the parameters for the BMS. If something goes wrong, it’s easier to diagnose the problem. If you see unbalance between the cell voltages, you can manually turn on balancing, and that avoids getting further problems with your battery. On the other hand, if you get a regular BMS built into your battery pack, chances are that you will only notice unbalance when a P group is dead, and it’s already too late. The smart BMS is also neat if you want to check the percentage of the remaining energy in the battery from your phone.
Even with a riser and mounting the truck one set of holes further, getting wheel-bite with 110mm wheels with 220mm caliber trucks. (Would be the same with 100mm wheels too)
Then I tried Surf Rodz RKP:
Getting wheelbite only on hard turns, and I bet it would be a non-issue if you mounted the truck 1 set of holes further / used 100mm wheels / had a riser pad.
Go for the Boas if you want as much range as possible, but even 78A TB 110mm wheels make a noticeable difference on cobblestone / pedestrian sidewalk bumps.
Also, I don’t think charging the cells at 2A will make any impact to cell life compared to regular abuse when riding the board and braking with regen.
The thing is, while you charge the pack, 8A charge heats it up. And since it’s a constant 2A per cell, the heat builds up over the 2-3 hours of charge time, and it has nowhere to go, it can’t really escape the tons of insulation and the enclosure. You should watch out for the temperatures of the pack if you charge with 8A. If it doesn’t get too hot, by all means go for it.
I have an 8A charger but I have a 5P config, so 1.6A per cell, which is about 30% less heat. I will check how hot it gets once I finish my enclosure, hopefully on the next weekend. I don’t want to charge it up, unless I know for a fact that my vescs are working (they are cheap focer 2s, and because I soldered them, who knows whether they will let the magic smoke out lol). I also haven’t decided on where exactly I want to mount them, I only know that they won’t fit in the battery enclosure below the switchblade. In the battery building thread when I was asking about my battery config, you said that you will also mount the ESC up, probably on the tail. Have you finished that build yet? Where and how did you mount them in the end?
I hope next weekend or the weekend after my board will be mostly done and I can charge it up and put everything together. I will make my own build thread when it will be finished.
Thanks for checking! Hmm, seems to be quite problematic then if I wanna use caliber style trucks with the switchblade, regardless of how I mount them. I’ve considered both the LY evo and the hummie deck as well, but both are unavailable atm afaik. What would your recommendation be if I still wanted to go with the BN220 trucks, and assuming I’m using 100 mm wheels + risers?
Hummies should become available pretty soon. Like in the next few days, maybe weeks soon. I use mine with boardnamics 220mm caliber hangers, drop through, with pneumatics. @Anubis will sell a few i think
A double stack hummie could fit a 12s8p 30Q battery which would meet your range requirements. I would probably choose the Hummie over the Evo just because it’s slimmer due to the batery cutout, although I’ve never tried an Evo, so maybe someone who’s tried both could weigh in.
Fits even 12s4p p42 routed to be longer, or 12s6p (maybe 7p?) Double stack. Way better than 30q at price/amp/wh
12s8p 30Q:
160A discharge
24Ah capacity
227.52GBP + VAT from Fogstar
12s6p p42a:
150A discharge (Although I guess you could do 180A for bursts)
25.2Ah capacity
208.08GBP + VAT from Fogstar
Oh wow, you’re right! I don’t know if a 21700 double stack fits though…
Staggered should fit with a soft 7-8mm gasket compressed down to 3-4mm maybe (and longer screws!)
Also, 30q’s are 15A rated, we run them at 20 like filthy animals
P42’s are rated 30A but take 45A (like 30q’s do 20A)
At the same discharge the 42’s will be less stressed and get a slightly higher total wh rating (if i remember right a 30q at 15A gets a bit over 5wh)
Also, take into account the builder’s costs. Most do price/cell so you save about 25% in the handwork as well
if your avg moving speed is 25-30kph, 40km range is realistic. (flats, no wind, 170lb rider)
if you’re a speed demon hitting 60kph at every possible opportunity, then you’d need a bigger battery
its a good deck, but brand new is nearly unobtainium rn, since LY isn’t making any new deck due to covid.
other specs are looking good 
also get the puck, u won’t regret it
I’ll go for a hummie deck then, seems like the best choice for the job given what’s available.
Thanks for the input! I’ll probably check some extra regarding battery configuration with @Acido
In case that didn’t sell you already, the hummie deck is really damn stable and pretty much any build drop through with at least 110mm wheels goes straight to the ultraboards thread on this forum lol
Pic for posterity
I’ve ridden a lot of boards and I do have to say hummie builds are one of my favorites to ride.
My first was a hummie build and I definitely would do it again (sold) and hope to some day.
Hexagon grip tape, where from? :c
