Phase filters is disabled in the 6.6 mk1 firmware. The toggle does nothing
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Having taken precautions too late, I might have introduced conductive dust in the general vicinity of this esc when doing other tasks.
I can see those multilegged chips in between the heatsink and underside of the PCB
The 4 screws which hold pcb to heatsink sit a bit proud. I think two screws will cause a tiny gap between the esc heatsink and my enclosureās heatsink, inhibiting ideal thermal tranfer.
If i can get it working right, I flirt with the idea of a conformal coating, as the board regularly spends time in a damp, hot, salty kayak hatch.
If i were to schmemmify the mosfet thermal pads on heatsink removal, is there a preferred product to replace them with?
I used some cheap thermal pads from Ali, when questioning if I had damaged my thermal pads beyond their level of goodness. I had taken my PCB off the heatsink at least three times for MOSFET replacement before I changed the pads.
Iāve no idea if the Ali pads are what is advertised, probably not. But, they seemed equivalent to what was in the ESC anyway and much cheaper than Digi-Key.
Prior to installing the external heatsink, thermal throttling felt like surging of power in and out. I mostly experienced it weaving in and out of traffic at a good pace across town and back, or full throttle up hills. I doubt thermal conductivity will be an issue for you because those hub motors will cook first anyways.
Speaking of cooking, sometimes I wonder if I could use a third vesc to drive an induction coil. How good would it be if another reason to go for a skate is because there was a small frying pan cooking and egg in the centre of the deck, but it required hardcore skating for the egg to become cooked.
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I didnāt get a chance, yesterday, to troublesboot further.
Hopefully, later today I can.
I hadnāt finalized the wiring in the previous days testing, as the short test rides are on ultra smooth asphalt, but I need to better secure the phase and sensor wires, assuming I can get it working.
I do have a short MT60 to MR30 adapter on either side of ESC which were still loose and not acceptable.
The red 5v sensor wire pulled out of the JST connector seat, but is on the motor which was not acting badly. The little locking tab seems to have sheared off, so Ill need to splice in a new section.
My new 10 amp 5.5 x 2.1 charge ports, are wrong. the barrel plugs are way too loose. I donāt know why i assumed they were 2.1 and not 2.5. They work butā¦
I got a nice little burn when my sweaty forearm was laying across a 42v barrel plug.
Iāve not been able to tinker with anything esk8 the last 2 days.
The Florida heat, and moving a ton of mulch after ripping out weeds in direct sun, had me pretty delirous.
Even after a cool down, and done for the day, stepping into the steamy garage to tinker, was not happening.
Just had another pallet delivered too.
What joy!
One one test ride, a few days ago, went relatively OK, as long as i kept the throttle half or less.
Above that throttle level, i described a weird sound emanating from below
poorly.
I realize now this noise is referred to at āmotor crunchā or āmotor crackleā and searches on those terms are both enlightening, and confusing.
lots of search hits in the onewheel world.
But with my one motor detecting wildly different over and over and inconsistently so, I am hopeful I can perhaps trial and error my board into acceptable performance, once I get the chance to commit the time to it.
ā¦-ā¦
The diagonal minis 70mm urethane sleeves are seeing 6 to 10 miles a day, seemingly losing diameter at an increased rate, and now every pebble or stick, feels like a giant rock or branch, and I really want my better board back, for multiple reasons.
The speed alone, to outrun and avoid traffic being at the top of the list, but near silent and softer thicker urethane is just so much more comfortable underfoot too.
The cooling breeze at higher speeds is also missed greatly.
Maybe that newly delivered pallet of mulch will sit untouched today.
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As the Diagonal Mini got its enclosure repositioned, padded, and restrapped, the Pesticide spewer arrived, so we quickly split, and have a while before that poison dries.
There is huge high tide still rising fast, which floods the crushed shell trail, and prevents most others from arriving, so we have the pavillion to ourselves.
I left Fionaās chariot onā high ā ground, and carried the lightweight diagonal mini through ankle deep sections for the 1/8 mile remainder.
Water is clear, nice breeze, not too hot.
Lots of fish, dolphin, and saw two Manatee, and not too many boats spewing bad country music either, speeding through no wake zone.
All when I should be eyes deep into enclosure, or spreading mulch.
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Stupid dolphin, get 'em!
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I decided to risk schmemmifying the thermal pad and separated the heatsink.
Looks like it stuck to two mosfets, a little bit. Signs they overheated?
I also found some thick gummy nearly clear flux residue bridging two of the pins on receiver.
Perhaps contributing to the remote ppm signal weirdness when I had usb plugged in to side 2, and wiggled the receiver?
While I had heatsink removed, I decided to see how flat its underside is, by rubbing it on some wet dry 400 grit sandpaper adhered to some thick glass.
Not too flat Iād say.
Not sure how much thermal grease filling voids compares to having to f ill only tiny scratches, in terms of extracting heat.
That looks ok to me?
Can you run one motor and get it to work good?
Then swap it to the other side of the esc and get it to work?
Then try the other motor on side a- works?
Then swap to side b - works?
I kinda suspect one of your hubs but itās jus a hunch
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Despite having had little to no dealings with hub motors, I agree.
I also now notice this is the model ESC that does not have a power switch, or the extra row of MOSFETs, justifying your use of the loopkey.
Evwan said this specific ESC would need an antispark switch, or a loopkey and recommended the latter, and my budget agreed.
The one motor detecting wildly different time after time has me suspicious too, and id like to think that since it worked fine Puaida ESC, it can be made to work with vesc.
Im also gonna inspect the factory soldered mr30.
The motor crackle crunch noise above half throttle could be because that one motorās resistance as detected and set, is outside the +/- 5% zone.
Im gonna try and get it going and get more data today, if other shit doesnāt happen first.
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Every time I run an auto dection, then go in and detect manually, the motor resistance varies by as much as 15 ohms, and the other numbers are wildly different too.
apply new , and write , both motors, and sometimes the motors seem to spin up fine, other times not so much.
no road test, as no confidence.
had to walk away, again.
Ok, I am a bit resigned trial and erroring my way into finding a happy medium in terms of motor resistance.
On motor settingsā¦FOCā¦general.
Every time detect and calculate parameters, the resistance changes pretty significantly and both motors are rarely close to each other.
Im road testing, on on latest auto detected settings, and getting the crackle/crunch at 50% or more throttle, but if I set VX-1 to orange or green power levels the crackle stops, but brakes are still a bit weak and Jerky inconsistent strength, and crackly.
I am at the sledgehammer machete zone of frustration.
6 hours of twiddling with values, returning enclosure, road testing, removing enclosure, changing one setting, and the best I can achieve is crackly grindy acceleration and jerky brakes.
If I set remote to orange power level, most of the crackle goes away on acceleration, and if i dont brake too hard, its almost tolerable.
Upping or lowering max motor current, by 3 or 4 amps, is likely to render the board completely unfunctional. all crackle no torque.
Every auto or manual detect comes back with different resistances ranging from 49 to 83 ohms.
Looks like my anxiety regarding setting up vesc was well founded.
I think Vedder himself might lose his mind trying to sort these hub motors.
So I busted out my 83mm Junk King ā350 wattā hub motors, and swapped them to 6 pin jst sensor plugs, and ran a detection with 9 pole pairs as i counted 18 detents spinning by hand, later confirmed with photo.
Again, the motors dont really sound right.
But they looked like they were responding to throttle equally on bench, which never happened with the other hub motors.
When I ran manual detection, same shit with wildly different resistance each click. but i applied and wrote them
I installed truck on board, flipped enclosure, took it for a spin, and they work pretty well.
No crackle or crunch or cogging.
Louder than on Puaida ESC, and pretty much same acceleration and brake levels using detected values, as Puaida esc had.
If i can squeeze out better torque and brakes tomorrow, then ok ā¦but if i cant, then the Puaida ESC was quieter.
On a happier note, id replaced one outer 16000rs bearing on these hubs a month ago but never tested them.
No more whisper noise, tonight at least.
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This morningās ride revealed that something is still quite wrong.
I tried another detection, and made it worse.
Manually detecting the motors, delivered insane inconsistency on the values.
I started this thread on that specific topic.
What causes wildly changing values on motor detection?
Seems I need to eliminate some variables, and the first will be the MR30 connectors.
They seem to separate far too easily and are 50% factory soldered.
I made short mt60 to mr30 adapters, with 16awg for the fsesc 6.6, but these bend 180 degrees inside enclosure adjacent to esc.
I have MR60ās on hand, to eliminate the adapter.
I am a bit confused on app settings regarding Vx1 remote.
Should be PPM only on master, but in my many attempts to set things up saw uart and ppm and uart, then other side said uart.
Depending on what was written the slave side, that motor didnt work at all or the motor responded poorly and crackly, and when I tried ADC both motors seemed equal and normal on bench, but road test was shit and thats where i gave up.
plugging the usb cable into side 2 also has issues when running remote wizard, but touching receiver no longer causes the input values from remote to change.
Im a bit confused by the canbus, can forwarding and such, and there seems to be an issue in this regard, hardware or fat fingered dimwittery.
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I donāt think Iāve ever used the remote wizard. The manual way works fine.
Both vescs need different CAN addresses or they wonāt talk. If the can messages switch themselves off by accident then CAN wonāt work. I think only half of are required, but no harm has come when Iāve ticked them all back on.
Are you using FOC now or still trying with BLDC?
Yesterday I went to see if BLDC would work on my one of my boards with a stormcore, that didnāt even allow it to be switched on.
Havenāt tried BLDC again, I dont like the noise.
can addressā¦ not sure i ever noticed.
If youāre looking for hubs that are known to play well with vesc, these are kinda the top of the line as far as these go
Oops, meant to put it in the other thread, but it works out anyways
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I almost bought those.
The puaida motors I did order, have 90 mm replaceable sleeves, and those sleeves also fit a lot of meepo hub motors(according to Puaidas site), and they have similar looking 105mm sleeves available.
If that Meepo hanger came with A baseplate, or if i knew it would fit the baseplates i had at the time, Iād likely own them.
Im gonna change all phase connectors to MR60, and eliminate my mt60 to mr30 adapters, and see.