The meepo hanger probably fits on any caliber or Paris baseplates, but I believe they also sell the baseplates somewhere in that confusing website.
I now have some caliber trucks, and M1 inboard manta drive hubs thanks to @arzamenable.
I need to get that weird 9 pin phase and sensor cable connector though.
The meepo website certainly screwed themselves out of a purchase. I need way more info. scrolling down to hopefully find āproduct detailsā, and finding none, is bullshit.
I couldnt find individual baseplates for sale either.
I was also looking into the backfire 600 watt 96mm hub motors, which seem to have 6 pin JST.
Ultimately the Puaida won due to price and replaceable sleeves and free USA based shipping, though they shipped from china anyway, but only took 8 days.
Oh well, i am the master of poor decisions.
I was wanting to put the 80mm M1ās on my diagonal mini, but the caliber trucks are too wide.
The M1ās on the calibers are wider than my puaidas, and those barely fit into the kayak hatch.
Lots of plans, not enough time, or $$, or skills.
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A while back my 7s junking remote got a little salt water wet, and developed a fast self discharge characteristic.
I didnt expect to still be using 7s at this point, but when i went to take Fiona to the swimming hole just now, the remote was dead.
Thankfully i have this single cell 18650 usb power supply(thrunite C-2), and have achieved, happy wet dog status.
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Having no confidence in my ability to get the fsesc6.6 mini to properly power my hub motors, Iāve put mr60ās on my puaida hubs, and on the ebay nuclear cockroach Lingyi ESC, and figured out a method to secure it to my enclosureās heatsink.
The roach also got 12awg and an Authentic xt90 to replace the too short 18 awg and fake xt60.
I desoldered the 7s bridge this am, and have to 6-5 pin the sensor connector before I get to see just how bad an ESC the lingyi is.
The fsesc will get MR 60ād too.
I have not given up on the fsesc, yet.
The 62$ ebay lingyi is the backup plan that i am making sure is viable, and hopefully works well enough I can give the 12mph diagonal mini a break
3 different escs can now easily, securely attach to my enclosureās heatsink
If the lingyi is as bad as Iāve read, and the fsesc 6.6 never works right, I am not sure what ill do
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If this is just about the jerky throttle response, itās probably not as bad as youāve read. I think weāre all (except the stooge riders) a tad bit spoiled by the smoothness of VESC. Iāve ridden a number of pre built HW/LY boards and while you can certainly feel the throttle response isnāt quite as refined, itās definitely good enough for me.
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I got a small taste of that smoothness, accelerating slowly with the fsesc, but the brakes were still wonky, if braking hard, and motors were not as quiet as the other ESC, below half throttle.
My 62$ ebay lingyi was made in August 2021, so perhaps is a bit different than older models
Iām hoping I can run a detection and not have resistance or inductance double or halve from 1 detection to the next, and hoping that one in the middle somewhere is close to correct.
I would really love the ability to customize with Vesc, and fully understand the program, and get the bluetooth to reliably connect with my phone too.
But I miss the midsizeās 25 mph+ ability, and ride comfort.
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Did a bench test with the cockroach ESC, and the motors just cog and donāt move, with the sensors plugged in.
The motors seem to spin up normally with the sensors disconnected. 2845rpm on one, and 2851rpm on the other which is about 30mph, which is the same unloaded speed as the self disconnecting Puaida ESC was/is.
I checked my 73mm hub motor connectors, and copied their red yellow green blue black order.
Wonder if the YBG order is different of halls 1,2,3.
Edit: I checked a picture, then swapped the blue and green sensor wires, and then both motors spun up fine, but backwards, so Iāll swap sides, which works better, from a wire organization standpoint.
I noticed that Puaida has a 2024 ESC that they said that they strengthened the brakes on, my primary complaint with the pre 2024 model, well, before it randomly started disconnecting with about 550 miles on it.
A different style remote with a different display, more telemetry, and some programmability built in too.
I hope I donāt develop the need to order it. Iād love to get vesc working proper, but if I have to go back to non V ESC, well its not like Iām racing, and my hub motor junk is not going to impress anyone anyway. Wish I could throw down for a quality non kayakable board.
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Just returned from Ebay Lingyi nuclear cockroach ESC test ride.
Once again, the hub motors are nearly silent accelerating, and even quieter coasting, and the freeroll is insanely good, far better than my acoustic with its coned sector 9 wheels and ancient bearings.
The throttle engagement is a bit abrupt initially, but after it is engaged, it seems pretty smooth. NO obvious steps like the Puaida esc had.
There is not quite as much torque as Puaida/Lingyi ESC.
Iād say it has between 85 and 90% the torque, but my 10s battery was not fully charged either.
No idea on top speed, as local radar speed sign is down, and there are some wet sections of road to avoid, but I suspect it is down a bit, or takes a lot longer to get there.
No matter right now.
I can still easily exceed speed limit in this housing development, can outrun traffic again.
Fiona should be stoked too. While the diagonal mini on 7s could tow the kayak the 2 miles round trip no issues at 11, maybe 12mph, I much prefer to tow it faster and be able to outrun following traffic
Braking is perhaps a smidge stronger, but still too weak, and the motors are much quieter braking with this ESC, compared to Puaida, which emitted a pretty loud whir whir whir when braking.
Iām gonna pad and secure some more interior wiring better, then retire the Velcro cinch straps and return the 18 screws to the enclosure.
Iām gonna finish my 10s1p p42a battery, and use that and my other hub motors when I next try and get the vesc to work on the bench. A road test would require swapping it into the midsize though.
Since I can now go relatively fast again, the pressure to get vesc going ASAP is off.
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Just towed Fiona to the park and back.
Itās been kind of off limits with the diagonal miniās super thin urethane hub sleeves, as the road is super rough for 200 meters. The blood orange urethane on front truck soaks it up.
Top speed and torque is definitely down from the Puaida ESC, and the throttle is touchy, especially in my left hand(chariot handle in right)
I also used more battery than I thought should have been consumed, so perhaps the cockroach is less efficient too.
Neither the hubs or Heatsink felt very hot on my return.
Iāve not checked the Pgroup balance of my battery yet, and dont trust the daly dumb bms to do much, cause I dont hold it at 41.8v + very often, for very long.
The radar speed sign had been recharged and replaced, on our journey to the watering hole just now.
Iād hoped it would be there and had been at full throttle since well before it came into view.
No wind , and it barely touched 23 mph/37kmh, whereas with puaida esc we had hit 29 mph, with a tailwind.
That initial throttle push of the ride, had me wheelie. It is very touchy, and I need to get used to it.
I do miss the loss of some torque and top speed with the ebay cockroach ESC, but it is so much better a ride than the diagonal mini, Iāll stop complaining.
Hopefully I can relegate it to emergency back up duty in the not too distant future.
So nice to be able to get here, exceeding the speed limit again.
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The lingyi cockroach ebay ESC likely has about 50 miles on it now, and Iād certainly enjoy being able to relegated it to backup status.
The good, is I can go as fast as I need to, and the hub motors are so amazingly quiet, and free roll so well. On the smoothest asphalt, itās downright stealthy.
The very few Pedestrians on my routes walking in same direction, only become aware of my presence (when Fiona is not barking) when I am very close.
The throttle is so sensitive, and engages very abruptly, requiring I always be braced for a wheelie at lower speeds, or a rearward wobble when returning the juice at higher speed.
If I release from full throttle or full brake, to neutral, often, it alarmingly stays at full throttle or full brake for 500 to 750 milliseconds afterwards.
At the grassy park, I will walk the chariot, but let the board power itself, sometimes gunning it and letting it do donuts. Under this low load high speed, it will cut out, stop, and then not respond to throttle at all for several seconds. So no more donuts. Not really a factor, just something different.
I noticed the range at which remote still works in the grassy field, is about 2/3 or less than that of the Puaida esc.
The strength of the brakes is inconsistent. Sometimes they feel a good 50% stronger than at other times at lower speeds.
Iām reluctant to actually try to get Fsesc 6.6 mini to properly detect either set of hub motors again.
It was so frustrating, and on test runs, the motors sounding so sickly even when not crunchy crackling underfoot.
I really want to get it working, but dont know if it can even work propetly with my hub motors, and if the effort of trying ovet and over, is futile, or not.
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Remove all of your extensions/conversions on your phase cables and try detecting with more current, even without sensors if you can live without them. I had a hell of a time setting up exway atlast hubs on my buddies board and extra current on detection worked a lot better, never got sensors working but it may have been an error on my end.
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Thank you kindly for the recommendations.
I will be using Mr60 connectors on all phase wires from here on out. I have, or will make the room for them.
I rarely start without a push or 2, so sensors not mandatory.
Never considered trying more or less current on detection, but will.
I am awaiting new Micro Usb data cables to arrive before mustering the gumption to try again.
Iād love to get vesc to power my hubs as silently as the cockroach ebay lingyi does.
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Still got the fsesc inhibiting proper sleep, even though It is on the back burner for now.
I now fully understand why the ebay Lingyi is reviled, with that damn twitchy throttle, but I am glad I have it, and my heatsink accepts it, as going for a cruise with Fiona withbthrotyle to spare, is seemingly my lone tendril to sanity these days.
Searching, I Found a post from @longhairedboy regarding locating the receiver, and I basically did exactly the opposite, attaching the receiver to the ESC, with antenna portion laying directly atop a capacitor.
Thereās still a whole lot I donāt get regarding setting up the remote and CANbus, and many other unknown ignorances, but I hope I can look back at some point and laugh at how Ignorant I was/am.
Thought of your cogging complaints:
Since one of my stormcores decided it would catch on fire overnight after a DRV fault, Iāve jammed one of my old fescās back in.
Iām also using a VX1 remote with it plugged straight into that common port which I think is how you had yours.
Iāve had nothing but motors cogging and all sorts of rubbish. Lots of over voltage faults upside down on the lounge floor, current set to 90 amps a motor.
I might have possibly just experienced the same complaint as youāve been describing.
What Iāve found is:
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It doesnāt matter which channel the BLE module is connected to, except that UART must be enabled for it to work.
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On channel 2, PPM must not be enabled. PPM must be enabled on channel 1, when physically looking at the ESC. Itās labelled ā1ā and ā2ā.
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If PPM is enabled on channel 2 as well as channel 1, using the remote causes cogging and just a shit show in general. I donāt know how of why, but Iāve just spent over an hour figuring this out with a USB cable.
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Appreciate you sharing your findings.
I played a bit changing ppm on and off, switching sides , trying adc on one side, right before losing my mind , and giving up.
Iām gonna desolder my receiver from my esc, and move it far away, when I next try, but I donāt know when that will be.
Hey Fiona, how do you feel about me disassemblng the perfectly functional fast board, in order to improve it?
(blows rasberry)
Good thing the 7s diagonal mini can do the job.
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Stainless steel, copper and Aluminum, oh my.
I was going to just use double sided thermal adhesive tape, but then imagined the worst, ejecting and locking my back truck up, throwing me.
Suspected JB Weld on properly prepared surfaces would never eject, but in time, different expansion and contraction rates of aluminum and copper, plus murphys law, says, use fasteners.
So fasteners.
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dude wtfā¦
how bad was the fire
It was damp, and I was racing a mate on his mobility scooter (itās got 20s12p battery I built, chain driven BLDC, but looks standard with the basket and all that). I think I lost traction around a corner on the thanes. We got back to his, had a beer and whatnot, and my stormcore was in DRV fault. I disabled that channel over canbus, unplugged the motor and made it home. There was no water in my enclosure.
Next morning when I got up, still sore, and dropped the enclosure it had totally burnt, whilst sitting in my hallway.
Iām grateful for ALWAYS using a fuse in my batteries. Grateful for building segmented enclosures, glassing my deck, and mounting to a heatsink.
Could have been worse. The irony is Iāve replaced the stormcore with an old flipsky that I first used in this board when I had a single tub enclosure. Swapped to the stormcore when I redesigned the enclosure and battery to be segmented.
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