Adjust one value at a time and know motor amps is low speed combined with the sensor mode and motor type (foc bldc etc). And battery amps is high speed operation everything after 3-4k rmp or whatever the set point where it transitions from sensor mode to amperage mode.
Need someone more vesc literate here to help troubleshoot 
Afaik bldc isnāt as refined as foc for motor control so I would stick to foc. Do just one and have the second disconnected - less noise in your data that way
yea, i think I got to walk away, take my pos 7s board to the water with Fiona.
I cant waste any more daylight
Am i supposed to be moving usb cable from one side to the other when changing settings, ive just been clicking on the other motor, changing settings and writing, strapping enclosure to board and testing, and every time it seems to get worse.
Like the cables are broken amd every enclosure flip fucks them more
Might be a cable issue? Try a different cable. Ive had this fix my problem before. Cable was iffy and just didnāt transfer data well or vesc didnāt like it idk
Definitely do each side individually- there could be some anomaly in the can bus or the usb connection or some other something that is making it harder. It is just another way to isolate the issue further
IDK what the F is happening, only that everything i tried this AM seems to make it worse.
im about ready to give up on the damn thing, desolder the 7s bridge on the e bay lingyi nuclear cockroach esc, and install that, or put the self disconnecting puaida esc back in.
Ive been sure to read, write, read again to maKe sure settings stuck, click on the other motor in the CAN, do the same.
Double check before disconnecting, pulling the cable, flipping and strapping enclosure, and having it bark grind stutter and stall and fart.
This is really driving me nucking futz, not knowing if it is a software or hardware issue, and the process of elimination requiring so much effort, and time.
The damn ebay lingyi cockroach wont easily attach to my heatsink.
Wish the damn puaida esc didnt start randomly disconnecting, and wondering if that disconnection is related to the current issues, like shorted motor windings or fkd sensors, or phase and sensor cables.
with some other non esk8 shit fucking with my sanity, iām needing one damn thing to go right
Yeah Pecos is correct, it will just brake less hard if you set the regen max lower. It is possible on some ESCs to add a big fuck off resistor and dump energy into that on braking instead of just the battery, but iirc they get really big if you want a useful amount of help. And then youāve got an extremely hot chunk of metal strapped to your board
Not sure what would be more temporarily satisfying, hacking it into a thousand pieces with the machete, or smashing it flat with the sledgehammer.
we need a brave soul to hop on a facetime with you or something
(someone better at vesc than me)
any takers?
Iāve no facetime, or similar apps, and a piece of tape over selfie camera.
I think i screwed up the vesc, or the motors with previously incorrect settings, or the phase and sensor wires are intermittent, and Fkād.
Iām not really gonna swing a machete or sledge at things, but that amount of frustration is near to bubbling over, not just at my one esk8 but all sorts of other things.
Jamming that throttle and cruising around at 20mph was a temporary pressure release valve.
12 mph from the diagonal mini is better than nothing but doesnāt scratch the itch.
plugged cable into side 2
Reset to default.
ran another detection
check direction on one motor, fine
other motor, sounds horrible was reversed. inverted, motor sounds horrible.
goto input setup wizard.
Its all effed up, scrolling forward and back on remote. does not recognize one side. shaking all over.
i touch receiver soldered to vesc and it starts going nutty.
i back out. try again, now telling me my vesc, or one of the vescs on can bus has old firmware.
now not seeing one side of vesc when i scan
Ah ha! Move that receiver and check the joints. Insulate it from the vesc somehow (kapton?)
Iāve busted out my best magnifying glasses and a strong headlamp.
I saw a little spooged excess thermal grease by the soldered legs of receiver, but my multimeter leads , placed into a blob of same thermal grease, reads nothing.
Anyway, Iāve pulled vesc from enclosure, and am cleaning everything, inspecting everything.
At 10 pm, it is 91f (32.8C) in the garage, my workshop, with stupid ridiculous high humidity, and after a drop of sweat from my forehead ran down my nose, landed in a sensor connector, I quit for the time being.
Thank you, all.
If I have offended anyone, please know it was not my intention.
Iām a bit socially impaired
Sometimes a vesc wont like a specific motor, iāve had it freak out on me before, even on a more conventional setup. Sorry dude
No reason to be sorry, Evwan. I seriously appreciate the vesc and time, and hope I can return the favor one day.
I have my 83mm ājkingā branded hubs, which have some issues, but still worked fine whennibtook them out of service,
And @Arzamenable has sent me some M1 manta inboard hubs motors, (and caliber trucks), for which I have brand new sleeves, and the sleeves on the motors already are in pretty good condition, but seem a bit harder duro than the new sleeves.
The passive 80 mm inboard blood orange urethane wheels blow away any other urethane ive ridden, just buttery smooth.
Anyway, if these Puaida hub motors dont wanna comply with vesc, i have two other options, which might, should, could.
Iām confused by the fault log, especially under voltage. I havenāt seen that one before.
Iāve had plenty of āovervoltageā, remediated by jamming another big capacitor over the voltage input to one of these. Cleaning the PCB is a good idea too, if itās got crap on it. The white heat paste isnāt conductive. Some fluxes can conduct above a certain temperature.
I used some flux I bought on Ali (a mistake) when replacing MOSFETs I killed. One night out skating, I lost hall sensors. Dropping the enclosure at the pub proved unhelpful, but enabling HFI on one motor while still using hall sensors on the other proved to work well. After getting home, I cleaned the PCB with a can of flux cleaner several times, and blew all the crap out with hot air simultaneously. This fixed the fault, clearly my crappy flux residue had something to do with not being able to identify hall sensors.
What version of firmware? Same version on both vescs? If itās newer than what come on it which I think is 5.2 then do make sure phase filters are switched off on both sides. Motor config/FOC/filters.
I also agree, stick to using FOC. I couldnāt get BLDC to detect motors.
If youāre having trouble with one motor, swap them over and see if the cause is associated with the vesc channel, or the motor. Was the ESC used when you got it? Could there be something wrong with it?
Also in Vesctool, on the right hand side you can enable RT data so you can see a bunch of real-time data on the screen like current, and graphs of rotor position detection. You can use the arrow keys on the keyboard to control motors for testing etc too which is handy.
Despite how frustrating it seems, if you learn one thing a day then youāll be doing better than most. I had a lot of trouble too a couple years back, didnāt even know anyone else who eskated. It was a big learning curve to build batteries, make fibreglass moulds and enclosures, and learn all about these parts we use. It looks like youāre doing good so far, I think youāre not far off.
I thought I saw firmware version 6.02 on both sides
I didnāt have phase filters turned off.
The vesc was sent to me by @Evwan. I donāt know anything more of its history.
it looks slightly different than most 6.6 minis i have seen online
alcohol soaked cotton swabs were removing plenty of gunk.
ive not separated the heatsink to get at underside. Afraid those blue thermal pads on mosfet will disintegrate.
Still half asleep.
Thanks for assistance, much appreciated
No worries.
Yeah, you need to make sure the phase filters are off because they rely on hardware that isnāt physically in that unit. Itās likely they have defaulted back to āonā again, and my understanding is that may damage the vesc.
In the original firmware, they are not an option. But because flipsky cut a few corners and donāt use best practices it means the updated firmware requires a little more attention to this detail.
The newer model you see on their website now will have bigger caps because that was a problem on these. You will also see on their website about not updating from the original firmware or the ESC might be damaged. I believe that relates to the phase filters being on by default in the new firmware.
It could be that changing the firmware settings over and over has corrupted something? Itās not permanent, you can alleviate it by going to firmware > bootloader, and flashing the bootloader then firmware
This is a good idea. It might be worth going back to 5.2 if youāre taking my suggestion above, just to remove that variable
+1 on this as well. Especially if you have a predictable motor to compare it with. But I donāt think youāve gotten a VESC + motor pair 100% solid before so that might not be an option
IMO itās not worth taking those off, as you suggested the pads can be oily and troublesome and you could introduce dirt
No offense caused by the posts so far. Youāve made your own thread to keep conversation relevant, given pretty detailed answers so people can actually try to help
The one thing is please donāt use words like retarded, the short version is language like that is against community rules because we had some horrible people a while ago. Swearing, frustration, calling oneself a fucking moron without two braincells to rub together, thatās all fine
