I guess there is no way i will be able to establish a reliable BLE connection between my Android and the Vesc long enought to figure it out, and set it up properly. What has been written now, well, the motors sound awful.
When it does connect, sometimes one motor disappears.
Other times it says could not read firmware and becomes useless
Sometimes the app just crashes.
So damn frustrated right now.
I’m looking at the damn e bay lingyi nuclear cockroach
Some vesc based esc just have to be plugged into a pc. Might just be the only reliable way to get good detection. Also take a day and just do something else. Coming back frsh is almost as important as just letting the gremlins get bored. I swear i do exactly the same process and one day it works and next it fails. Then the reverse.
Sounding like trash is probably bad motor detection. Also try swapping the Bluetooth to the other side of the vesc.
If vesc mobile doesn’t work try the freeska8 app as it seems more stable and does 99% of what vesc tool does.
I had trouble with a mates today. Hall sensor table was stuck on 255, 255, 255 etc even after a successful motor detection. Did it again, went fine.
If you update the firmware on that V6.6, you’ll have to manually uncheck the “phase filters” option (on both vesc channels). Allowing “default settings” in a motor detection restores phase filters to “on”, which you really don’t want to happen on that ESC.
One thing I have never succeeded at though is using BLDC mode. You’d think it would be simpler, but I’ve never got it to work properly.
ive give up on the mobile app for now. Using a desktop.
Didn’t know about the fresk8 app. Ill have to check it out, later.
The last Motor detection had one motor read 10 amps higher than the other. I took a photo of the screen, but its blurry.
I got the most acceptable performance on bldc, but brakes were still too weak, and when i upped the regen something else changed and it ran like shit, and i coasted to a stop and turned off remote and pushed, and it felt like the freeroll was insanely good.
After opening the enclosure 6 times i called it a night.
I charged up and am still getting issues with power cutouts at higher throttle.
Perhaps 40 amps motor current is too high.
Brakes still suck at -20 per motor.
So far, the Puaida/lingyi esc was superior in performance.
I could experiment all day
40 amps isn’t much, and 20 amps of braking won’t do a lot. I run 5374s at 80A, 150 absolute -60 braking depending on gearing etc.
What is the cause of the cutouts? Use the terminal. Type “faults” into it. It’s case sensitive. Do the same for both vesc channels.
The v6.6 should work fine. It’s got a few quirks but I’ve been able to work around them. My wee evovle GT’s still using one. I did 40km on it last night, and about 10 today.
Remember this is a 30 amp battery and questionable hub motors.
I cant open it again until after sundown
Definitely set the breaking/regen up as high as you want, imho you will never be able to exceed the rating without being towed. Its such a short burst you could probably do -50a and never exceed the burst rating. Though i would suggest going more conservative - no need to lock up the wheels 
I thought going too high would smoke the motors or battery or esc.
I guess it only sends so much to the battery and bleeds off the rest as excess heat?
Is it really possible to lock them up?
Id love to approach that.
My one junky 7s ‘aladdin’ esc will practically to that, and if i am braced for it, I love the strength.
It did throw me once at slow speed, but i was able to tuck shoukder and ninja rol back onto my feet.
Surprised the shit outta myself.
got lucky
What’s your ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM CURRENT set to?
How i understand it, ratings are all based off of time and temperature. Your continuous rating is in free air the temp won’t exceed its nominal operating temperatures at ambient, this doesn’t apply to breaking and regenerative use because of how short the time exposed to the high amps.
Because even on a big boat of a board going 30 down a hill will only hit -40ish amps then quickly drop to single digits in an emergency stop and stay considerably less for regular breaking , i just can imagine how you could generate the negative watts necessary to hurt your battery or exceed its ability to capture or turn to heat vs the importance of being able to safely break
And it doesn’t have heaters to dump breaking into afaik and will just not break beyond its set point
100% soc. 0% breaking ability
I left abs max current at what vesc set, 42 amps IIRC
oh yeah that’ll give you overcurrent faults. press the default button, hit apply, and turn slow abs current on. you want that set to the maximum, which is the default
Id gladly sacrifice the battery longevity for strong smooth linear brakes.
About the poles, my Puaida motor sheet says:
“The number of the motor… 20,
…The stator slot number…18.”
I’ve not taken the Puaida motors apart and seen inside, yet.
My older ‘Jking’ 83mm hubs, i have taken apart dozens of times
Dang, I wanna do this right now.
Gotta go cook dinner though.
Thank you
Pole PAIRs for vesc. So 20 is 10. 18 is 9 and my bosted unlimited are is 28 so 14pair on vesc. 10 or 9 is not a big difference but 20 will give it ghosts in the blood so bad no amount of coke will fix it
Edit: see your response on bqt so ignore lol
Ok ran another detection.
my settings on both motors.
roadtest, am
Getting a metal popcorn popping in a glass mayonaise jar type of sound above half throttle, but it keeps accelerating, not cutting out like before.
way different powerband than puaida esc. doesn’t feel as torquey, but… hard to tell.
brakes are stronger, but inconsistent strength, jerky, noisy,
noise similar to 50%+ throttle
Any ideas?
Is my motor noise related to sending too much amperage to the motors?
Those motor detections look off, is it possible for you to do each separately- and also plug directly into each side for each detection. That they are so different makes me suspicious when they are the same model hub.
Also try one motor only. Detection and testing one at a time might isolate the issue to one side or one motor. Im still a vesc noob and working not from a base of knowledge so much as having a series of magic rituals that i try to get the ghosts out.
First isolation of the problem by split half method - test smaller and smaller portions by first splitting the trouble circuit in half and repeating until its isolated as much as possible.
Then swap components at this smaller level and until something works.
I lowered motor and brake current by 5.
No real difference
owered another 5 and the board barely moved.
Tried bldc and everything was wrong, barely moved. one motor seemingly inverted akidding sideways withoit me atanding on it.
Went to reinvert and would spin a bit, then stop and reverse making sick noises.
Im about ready to find sledgehammer
