Loaded X Unlimited kit | What's inside? How to take it apart? Was this a stupid idea?

So i finally got the Kit and want to see what is upgradable, salvageable, also just wanted to pull it apart lol (have not even tried it :rofl:)

I opened it all up, and to my suprise it is super well built.
for those you don’t know what this is, it’s basically a plate with a connector, an esc, a battery, and a motor


Here are some pics and tutorials.

First, I removed the 4 screws on the ESC. I then slowly open it up. The end with the phase wires coming out it a bit stuck because they added glue for waterproofing. I used a small screwdriver to slowly pry it open. I have not been able to remove it entirely.

Then I removed the two big screws holding the connector which is on the mounting plate.
On the side, they are another 2 small screws holding the 2 connectors together. removing this was easy, to my surprise I found the smallest bms in there.

then on to the battery. This was super easy too, just remove the for really small 5/64 hex screws and the case comes apart. near the front where the prongs slide in, remove the battery carefully and then you have 2 small Phillipe screws to remove and the PCB with prongs come right out.#
the battery is held down with silicone btw.


So i have a few questions so ima going to bring in the experts
@Scepterr @DerelictRobot @Pimousse @jeffwuneo @Pedrodemio @ I know i am forgetting people

So how is this rigged up? These connectors seem to be the same pin layout as Amass as120-m

But what are the pins in the middle used for?
Also why is the bms in the middle yet the charge port is on the battery? (the battery is a 10s1p of samsung 25r)

Do you guys find anything interesting? Anything worth mentioning?



I did visit their factory this weekend in Barcelona. The bms is a discharge bms and the esc they call mesc is a 20a continues. Really nice guy that runs it and they are many working their, they are selling good.
Their next version will have the bms and mesc inside every battery pack instead of inside the board and I think it will be 14s1p. Really nice implementation of the battery swap they did. Their hub motors have curved magnets to.


one of those budget board reveiw guys said it was weak and that he didnt like it

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It’s not. it really is good quality. evrything is actually, i am super suprised


guess it depands on what you want i personally would perfer wowgo 3, or meep awd pro for that price point

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sure but i got this kit for 500 euro haha.
Also you can take this on a plane and it fits whatever skatboard you want


less than 500 euros can also be brought on plane
also loving how you tore it up :+1: :joy:


I’ve always wanted to see one of these from inside, thanks a lot

By the PCB looks like they are using CAN, one pin for high, one for low, one ground, and one 5v, I guess just to keep the low power electronics on the ESC on even if the BMS cuts off

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For science!!

Also, those must be 25R cells right? Considering the green color. In a 10s1p configuration

Yaaaaa :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


will there be a video teardown of the hub motor? :slight_smile:

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Yeah uh, this can also be brought on a plane


No lol. I won’t go that far. :blush:


I think Jeff from NEO has posted some internal pictures, check the NEOhub thread


Very interesting. I am waiting for a Omakase with the solo kit I bought off Facebook for 500€

What kind of cells could fit in there? p42a?
Would it work and give more power and range?

I seem to remember you can only swap them for 30q.


Thank you. How much of a difference would it make?

Not huge.

Samsung 30Q 3000mAh @15~20a
Samsung 25R 2500mAh @20a

Samsung 30q would give you a bit more range. But really not much. 0.5Ah more.
You’d get more sag with 30q if doing 20a continuous, as you’d reach their temp limit of 75° fairly quickly. Meanwhile the 25r have a true 20a discharge

someone needs to try and put p26a or p28a in it, then run it bypass :joy: