Loaded unlimited hub motors experience?

I could never get HFI to work on these hubs

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Unlimited mode is pretty damn cool. Imagine if your board had the free roll of a well lubed longboard when you let off the throttle :drooling_face:

These things are damn punchy when you fully unlock it via the app. I actually turned the punch down a bit

Clearance is acceptable for street riding. Always be careful :grin:

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'bout to scrape the jewels there :grimacing:

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LMAO it’s a sleeper for sure, I make ppl question their purchase when I take fly by them on hub motors. I run everything on the app maxed out and get only 7 miles of range so I always carry 2 spare batteries :sweat_smile:

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What’s the stock capacity? I was gonna do 12s1p P26A

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I’ll get slightly better range at least :sweat_smile:

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p28a :smirk:

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I could carve out the deck a bit and go to 10s1p P42A

the battery is bolt on to a CF plate that’s held up by the truck bolt, not sure if there is even space to fit p42a if u remove all unwanted material inside the battery

Oh this is for a full DIY, I’ve got a Pramayana with Paris 149mm TKP I’m putting the hubs on, I bought a eBoosted 18" cruiser enclosure so I’m putting both in the CNC router to get perfect holes without breaking through. I can carve out pockets for thicker batteries and electronics pretty easy

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go for it!!

I’m very excited, it will be an extreme sleeper build, I want it to look as close to an analog as possible but I’ll have a Unity with the current maxed out under there

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sounds like broken shit LOL

I would recommend using values slightly less than maximum

I’m gonna have 30/-12 battery and 20/-12 each motor to start, we will see what happens

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:metal:

I was considering doing this, but wasn’t sure how accurately I could measure hole locations. How were you planning to do that? I feel like the obvious way would be to just trial and error it on some cheap material until everything lines up with the enclosure, but maybe there’s a faster way? Also, I’m very inexperienced in this regard, but some enclosures seem to want enclosure screws to be coming out normal to the deck instead of just vertical to the ground. On my re44 some of the holes on the drop were like this. What’s you’re strategy gonna be for those kinda holes? Just mark with the CNC and finish by hand? (I’m assuming we’re not talking 5 axis machine big enough for a longboard lol)

:sunglasses:

:flushed:

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I model the deck and enclosure in SOLIDWORKS by taking careful measurements then I export a .pdf to cut from

It’s how I did the Black Bear deck and that came out perfect

For the deck I use the bolt holes for the trucks to secure it, then I cut from the bottom

For the enclosure I will make a pocket in a piece of thick wood and chamfer the edges so it drops in, then use screws + fender wahsers to secure the lip so I can cut holes for enclosure screws and slots for the wire channel block

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Full power!

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