I just told him this website from eBay and he has just joined us
Any plans?
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YO Guys! Im Jordan. Im from Calgary in Canada! I’m an equipment operator in the oilsands. I really have no clue what I’m doing but decided to do a pretty sweet build after getting an evolve and riding it twice LOL.
I’m pretty much winging it, but
Here’s a photo of what I have so far! Janux mount, surfrodz RKP trucks, 2x neobox V6 on the way!!
The deck I got from a builder in toronto along with the battery. It’s a 10s5p 30Q battery.
I’m going to run 120mm cloudwheels till the cores break (fuck lol) with 15t and 40t drive pulley.
The motors are maytech 6364 sealed cans and the remote is a maytech!
@Dareno think it’ll be tight. It night be but she’ll go (I hope) lmao
If anyone has a Bluetooth module for sale im looking for one, also looking for some drive pulleys (pressfits)
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I like that deck man.
Looks like things are going to be a bit tight in there though
Lets get a bit more detail in here!
Thanks a lot @Dareno. I’m hoping it’ll all fit nicely. Might be a bit snug though. I added some detail
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When you get to the final stages then be aware that you may need to un faraday that cage (deck). Unless the lid is just carbon look and not a full carbon sheet. If you experience cutouts with the remote due to the receiver being locked away then send me a pm and we can work out a solution.
Great looking build and look forward to the finished article. 
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That would be awesome man thanks! That’s one concern I had, I’ll see how the signal works when my ESC’s come in. I’ve come up with two differt solutions, not sure how either one will work out
- cut a hole in the top and place the antenna underneath it/fill it in with something
- not sure if I can lengthen the antenna or not, but another option if I can is to place it within my motor phase wires
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Dang I love that remote but some people have reported signal issues. I’ve never dropped a bar personally.
Lengthening antenna is tricky because it has to be done at a mathematically calculated length based off of frequency/transmission power as I recall.
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I think this remote makes the most sense with its controls. It’s ergonomic lol!
I’m hoping I don’t have any signal issues.
That’s what @b264 told me about lengthening the antenna, so I’m hoping I won’t have any issues. I wonder if there is a way around that. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when it comes
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The best way is to indeed cut a hole and replace the carbon in said hole with a plastic bung.
Somewhere in the centre of the deck. I would avoid putting the antenna or receiver cabling too near any other higher voltage cabling either battery or phase.
This is an ancient build of mine lol and if you look at the centre of the deck there is a plastic bung which houses the receiver and in your case would hold the antenna.
You could always route the antenna cable outside but those tiny coax cables are a bitch to extend.
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I’ve actually seen that photo around!
It would he my preference to not cut a hole in the top. But I can if I must lol
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If its just for the antenna then it can be a tiny hole. That one housed a nano receiver which has one built in so it had to be a bit big. I would put the hole towards the front and to the side you hold your remote in. I am right foot forward so all my builds have the receiver positioned where my right hand is closest to which is towards the front on the right hand side. If you are left foot forward and right handed then yours would be towards the rear on the right etc etc and so forth and so on.
Lets not clog this up too much lol
She is still running the old girl but now has a 30q 4p battery.
Hey guys, I guess this is my intro. I’m a mechanic and I live in Dallas. My best friend is about to go to grad school and asked me to build him a board. I jokingly agreed and have been researching for a couple of weeks and am hooked. So many options and so many setups. I want to build a board that is mid-length, lots of power and carryable. But I am not rich so I was thinking:
single flipsky 6384 190kv,
17t/36t pulleys
diy 10s?p battery pack (heard 12s are overkill more expensive),
flipsky 4.20 or maytech vesc with high constant amperage
90mm wheels
but I’ve been leaning toward:
dual motor 6374
same diy 10s pack
dual vesc 4.20
same pulleys
same wheels
I still am very new to all of this and have no clue what I’m doing or if any of this will work at all or be cheaper than I want it to be but it’ll be all good.
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Welcome @cloud51ve!
looks like you’ve hit your post limit. one of the mods will be by soon to
remedy this for you.
@anorak234 @BillGordon @Dareno @jamie @mmaner @Sender @Zach
in the meantime i’ll provide my opinion on your questions but please seek out input from others to get a balanced perspective.
this is a super fun space to DIY but know that it is unlikely to be less expensive than an off the shelf board or kit. take a look at build kit boards or similar for reliable and cost effective set up.
these are good things to consider when starting a build, something that is not intuitive is the enclosure. I see you are a mechanic so its possible you are learned in the ways of fabrication, if this is not the case you should choose a deck that can easily acomodate an enclosure off the shelf
Midlength: 36- 39"? rider height and riding style would be helpful to know
lots of power: you will not be disappointed with 6384 170-190kv motors use pulley ratio to adjust speed/torque.
battery pack: depends on your goal. many will tell you “higher voltage = faster” while this is true it should also be noted that higher voltage will run cooler. 10-12s are quite common with 12s increasing in popularity in last few years.
ESC: you state “high constant amperage” but do not define, in general assume less than (40)A per ESC V4 will work well, (50)a greater per ESC look to V6. flipsky can be hit or miss on quality.
Wheels “90mm wheels” good size, make sure the core will work with your pulley system, Kegel (circles) and Abec (slots) are both popular.
Dont forget remote, enclosure, telemetry, and safety gear.
few of us are, just be thankful you arent as ugly as @BillGordon or @wandagoner - on their best days they make Marty Feldman look like a square jawed quarterback with time and testosterone to spare.
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Whoops that profile message was from yesterday.
yea i want to do a custom enclosure but i thought it would be kinda cool to some how backpack it so the weight wouldn’t be at your feet but…pipe dreams lol
I think he’s 6’0" and he’s all around. He’s backpacked with a penny board and he was into bombing hills on the longboards he built. He’s been skating since I’ve known him so he’ll be fine on anything. I hope it will be enough power to be fun and manage some hills.
I didn’t know that about higher voltage. I’ll definitely need more battery research lol.
I figured the best way to get performance out of an electric motor would be to feed it amps and the 6374 says its 85a max and thought it would be the only way to get the performance from it, but thats how my brain works lol.
yea i wanted to do 110mm but that seems too big and 90mm would seem more “street.”
thanks for the warm welcome
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check out what @malJohann did with his Morpheus build and backpack system, pretty bitchin if you ask me. be forewarned though, i’ve seen images of him skating in sandals so you know he’s freakin bananas
while this may be true, you will likely be limited by your battery, bms, or ESC before the motor when it comes amperage (heat).
try them out, the TB110 are great urethane wheels, i’ve got over a thousand miles on mine without issue. i’ve even used them on an analog board when i was in a pinch and honestly wasn’t that big of a deal.
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You’re too kind! 
I’ve mine set at 120A each. 6374 192kV SK3’s.
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then you said you’re running 120a through each.
Do they get hot? Do they over perform their specs?
That thread is cool. I was thinking about some sort of magnetic board connection but it makes sense to not.
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They get warm to the touch, maybe 40 degrees Celcius? IDK exactly, because I can’t be bothered with motor temp sensors.
Keep in mind that’s not the constant current, and it will go down when voltage goes up.
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