esk8.news esk8 calc donate now

Introduce Yourself and Share Your Plans (SERIOUS)

I think this remote makes the most sense with its controls. It’s ergonomic lol!
I’m hoping I don’t have any signal issues.
That’s what @b264 told me about lengthening the antenna, so I’m hoping I won’t have any issues. I wonder if there is a way around that. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when it comes

2 Likes

The best way is to indeed cut a hole and replace the carbon in said hole with a plastic bung.

Somewhere in the centre of the deck. I would avoid putting the antenna or receiver cabling too near any other higher voltage cabling either battery or phase.

This is an ancient build of mine lol and if you look at the centre of the deck there is a plastic bung which houses the receiver and in your case would hold the antenna.

You could always route the antenna cable outside but those tiny coax cables are a bitch to extend.

2 Likes

I’ve actually seen that photo around!
It would he my preference to not cut a hole in the top. But I can if I must lol

1 Like

If its just for the antenna then it can be a tiny hole. That one housed a nano receiver which has one built in so it had to be a bit big. I would put the hole towards the front and to the side you hold your remote in. I am right foot forward so all my builds have the receiver positioned where my right hand is closest to which is towards the front on the right hand side. If you are left foot forward and right handed then yours would be towards the rear on the right etc etc and so forth and so on.

Lets not clog this up too much lol

She is still running the old girl but now has a 30q 4p battery.

Hey guys, I guess this is my intro. I’m a mechanic and I live in Dallas. My best friend is about to go to grad school and asked me to build him a board. I jokingly agreed and have been researching for a couple of weeks and am hooked. So many options and so many setups. I want to build a board that is mid-length, lots of power and carryable. But I am not rich so I was thinking:
single flipsky 6384 190kv,
17t/36t pulleys
diy 10s?p battery pack (heard 12s are overkill more expensive),
flipsky 4.20 or maytech vesc with high constant amperage
90mm wheels

but I’ve been leaning toward:
dual motor 6374
same diy 10s pack
dual vesc 4.20
same pulleys
same wheels

I still am very new to all of this and have no clue what I’m doing or if any of this will work at all or be cheaper than I want it to be but it’ll be all good.

2 Likes

Welcome @cloud51ve!
looks like you’ve hit your post limit. one of the mods will be by soon to
remedy this for you.
@anorak234 @BillGordon @Dareno @jamie @mmaner @Sender @Zach

in the meantime i’ll provide my opinion on your questions but please seek out input from others to get a balanced perspective.

this is a super fun space to DIY but know that it is unlikely to be less expensive than an off the shelf board or kit. take a look at build kit boards or similar for reliable and cost effective set up.

these are good things to consider when starting a build, something that is not intuitive is the enclosure. I see you are a mechanic so its possible you are learned in the ways of fabrication, if this is not the case you should choose a deck that can easily acomodate an enclosure off the shelf

Midlength: 36- 39"? rider height and riding style would be helpful to know
lots of power: you will not be disappointed with 6384 170-190kv motors use pulley ratio to adjust speed/torque.

battery pack: depends on your goal. many will tell you “higher voltage = faster” while this is true it should also be noted that higher voltage will run cooler. 10-12s are quite common with 12s increasing in popularity in last few years.

ESC: you state “high constant amperage” but do not define, in general assume less than (40)A per ESC V4 will work well, (50)a greater per ESC look to V6. flipsky can be hit or miss on quality.

Wheels “90mm wheels” good size, make sure the core will work with your pulley system, Kegel (circles) and Abec (slots) are both popular.

Dont forget remote, enclosure, telemetry, and safety gear.

few of us are, just be thankful you arent as ugly as @BillGordon or @wandagoner - on their best days they make Marty Feldman look like a square jawed quarterback with time and testosterone to spare.

3 Likes

Whoops that profile message was from yesterday.

yea i want to do a custom enclosure but i thought it would be kinda cool to some how backpack it so the weight wouldn’t be at your feet but…pipe dreams lol

I think he’s 6’0" and he’s all around. He’s backpacked with a penny board and he was into bombing hills on the longboards he built. He’s been skating since I’ve known him so he’ll be fine on anything. I hope it will be enough power to be fun and manage some hills.

I didn’t know that about higher voltage. I’ll definitely need more battery research lol.

I figured the best way to get performance out of an electric motor would be to feed it amps and the 6374 says its 85a max and thought it would be the only way to get the performance from it, but thats how my brain works lol.

yea i wanted to do 110mm but that seems too big and 90mm would seem more “street.”

thanks for the warm welcome

1 Like

check out what @malJohann did with his Morpheus build and backpack system, pretty bitchin if you ask me. be forewarned though, i’ve seen images of him skating in sandals so you know he’s freakin bananas

while this may be true, you will likely be limited by your battery, bms, or ESC before the motor when it comes amperage (heat).

try them out, the TB110 are great urethane wheels, i’ve got over a thousand miles on mine without issue. i’ve even used them on an analog board when i was in a pinch and honestly wasn’t that big of a deal.

1 Like

You’re too kind! :kissing_heart:

I’ve mine set at 120A each. 6374 192kV SK3’s.

1 Like

then you said you’re running 120a through each.

Do they get hot? Do they over perform their specs?

That thread is cool. I was thinking about some sort of magnetic board connection but it makes sense to not.

1 Like

@Scepterr is an amazing guy to work with to get your battery built. HIGHLY recommended.

1 Like

They get warm to the touch, maybe 40 degrees Celcius? IDK exactly, because I can’t be bothered with motor temp sensors.

Keep in mind that’s not the constant current, and it will go down when voltage goes up.

1 Like

I appreciate the rec. I’ll definitely hit him up when I get started on it.

That’s cool. I like how your speed is 37-40+ alot of the time lol.You used to use lipos and moved to lifepo4, would you recommend I start with lipos ?

1 Like

Not unless you like messing around with hobby chargers and plugging / unplugging a lot, and also not unless you’re okay with the risk of a high temp fire (on your back).

Otherwise if you want to run them in a better setup, just add a BMS and associated wiring, you still have the fire risk though. They’re brilliant for discharge and low / no voltage sag.

I run LiFePO4 currently because I like that I don’t need to baby them, they don’t go out of balance, you can discharge deeper, they maintain voltage deeper, and zero fire risk.

Plus, I’m building another P group to sidestep voltage sag, which will become another S group when I want to push voltage up and consequently don’t need the current.

Power for motors is calculated by A x V, so high A and low V can supply the same power as low A and high V. Pick your poison based on your needs. High V is popular for a reason.

2 Likes

As an illustration 10A x 10V = 100W. Also 5A x 20V = 100W, but less heat and better efficiency.

1 Like

Had an account on the other forum, but things seem to have moved on so here I am. Built up a Trampa Street Carver, rode it a reasonable amount over 6 months then it just sat in the garage for another six months. Got a bit depressing seeing it gathering dust so sold it on to a better home. Probably for the better, it was going to hurt me bad eventually :joy:.

Close to a year since I’ve spent decent time on an esk8 forum and it’s been interesting catching up. Enertion ended up where everyone expected they would, 4p packs now seem to be on the small side, everyone’s on extra-wide CNC’ed precision trucks… the DIY game definitely stepped up.

Anyway, feel like making something again, likely a scooter of all things. Something sub 10kg, but it’s hard not to upsell myself onto bigger everything. Then there’s that APS 80100 lump of a motor I have sitting around from a non-starter DIY onewheel project. Right now it’s just an idea and a list of links to various aliexpress bits.

4 Likes

Yup, found you over there and matched your trust level. Welcome, Lachlan!

2 Likes

Thanks for all that great info. I keep seeing stuff about lifePO4s and didn’t know they were that great.

1 Like

They’re heavy, not great with energy density, but 1 or 2 kg extra is a trade-off I’m willing to make for the benefits, which includes good performance in cold weather.

1 Like

Hello fellow esk8ers! I’m Nate, “n8dam8” from the electric-skateboard.builders forum.
I hope all of you have been safe through all of this COVID stuff.
My friends have upgraded to beastly boards that can leave me in the dust, and they require that I ride at least 30mph. I love my pneumatic tires too much, so I rarely run 107s unless I know the road is silky smooth.

I have since took up motorcycle riding, but I do jump on my DIY board every now and then.

4 Likes