Hoyt Puck sending full brake/reverse signals after being smashed

[jack.luis]

The irony that this is my thread is just too much

[Evwan]

Puck with no one.

oneless, if you will

[fessyfoo]

so all those things were flagged in another thread then moved here. can the be unhidden now?

[glyphiks]

Only if the OP edits them or @longhairedboy or @jamie wave a magic wand on them

[PedroMcJimenez]

@fessyfoo

can the be unhidden now?

That would entail the existence of mods. That or go and edit your posts and they reappear
Damnit, jinx

[Shadowfax]

I’ll wave my magic copy paste wand one more time

@Tony_Stark

Haven’t got a video but we just mix up 5 minute epoxy and apply it with whatever (a chopstick in this case).

@Shadowfax

I strongly recommend you do not do this. It makes it impossible to repair the potentiometer.

I broke my first hoyt puck by dropping it and damaging the potentiometer. I sent it to hoyt and they repaired it for free.

I decided to battle harden my second hoyt puck with epoxy as shown in your picture. Worked perfect for about a year, and then the potentiometer started to fail. I never dropped it, it just started being frequently unresponsive / occasionally sending full throttle. Now, I have a totally unrepairable puck, and the entire PCB is trash instead of just sending it to hoyt for repair.

Maybe it’s different if you’re on the other side of the world (out of reach for easy repair), but if you are in the states, I would definitely not cover the potentiometer in epoxy.

@Evwan

Afaik they may not do this outside of warranty anymore.

Potentiometers still fail, even if they’re drop proof. I have two toast PCBs. One with a dropped pot (oops) and one that failed from frequent use.

@Tony_Stark

I disagree mate. My pot is starting to wear out and become less predictable, but I’ve had a lot of stacks with battle scars on the puck to prove it and would much rather replace the whole remote than risk getting stuck on full throttle at any time while riding.

The remote we dropped that wasn’t reinforced broke straight away and the pad ripped off the PCB making it difficult to repair without adding jumper wires and epoxying the pot down anyway.

@Evwan

That’s more than fair

@Shadowfax

That’s fair, I’m just bitter because I only got a few hundred miles of use out of this puck before it failed. Now an easy repair is impossible and I’m out $100 for a new puck, just because I thought Battle Hardening would make it live longer

Hall sensor puck let’s gooooo

@Evwan

Plz

Oil slick shell too?

@PedroMcJimenez

Anecdotal warning: Ive seen plenty of failed puck pots locally. None of them were epoxied.
The one that was epoxied(mine) has been smashed and crashed heeps, to the point of fishing everything out of the adjacent waist tall grass after stack. It’s missing partial resistors and hasn’t skipped a beat otherr than no charge indicator lights(blank but goes green when full).

The local failures have been a healthy mix of pot leg failures and internal pot failures so while epoxy helps heaps, the pot can still go bad.

F

@magharees

Mediation advisor: hot glue?

@Shadowfax

I unironically like this idea

black hot glue would provide some support to the pot legs, while being removable if required. I’m doing this to my puck

@Evwan

Water in the glue is gonna screw up the signal

this is satire

@magharees

@TimR

I think that the epoxy would soften enough using hot air from a SMD rework blower to remove from the PCB. 350 degrees in Celcius would probably be fine. I’ve also had a pot get a bit smashtered in a puk, but it’s been fine since my last repair and it’s taken a hiding.

@Tony_Stark

Glueing pucks is a conspiracy that was covered up by the government

@Evwan

@Tony_Stark

by the government Trampa

FIFY

if we’re going to jail, lets do it in style folks.

@Shadowfax

We shall never speak of this day again, and the people will wonder what happened

@SlickdogEsk8

Government mandated glueing safe and effective for your SAFEY … to keep you Safe

@magharees

(post deleted by author)

@Soflo

What is going on in this thread?

[Wasubot]

Another point of failure sent it full speed ahead, fortunately i just stepped off the board after reverse was not working. Board slammed into a giant rock and seems okay. I didnt drop remote was just using it as normal.

This puck is only a few month old also, close to new.

[hoytkid]

Well, it looks like the potentiometer is not reinforced with solder, which is most likely why the issue happened. All pucks now come with the reinforcement, as they made an announcement a while back about it.

[Tony_Stark]

I don’t see how that design could be reinforced with solder. The pads themselves break off the PCB so no amount of solder is going to make it safer. The batch we received for the Genesis boards looked similar to the above and we reinforced them all with epoxy which is how they should come for safety. But looking at how that failed maybe we should actually be reinforcing the trigger frame instead…

[Wasubot]

It’s an odd thing that happened to my puck, I would have thought not a lot of stress would be transfers to the nub that moves the pot but that looks to not be the case somehow. Seems injection moulding for something like this may not be a good option. I had another puck that has been reliable for years until I dropped it ( now fixed) and then got this new one. I really would like that the new puck v2 now my confidence is low, a few seconds earlier I was at 50kmh and only hopped off the board as a precaution when reverse was not working, my thoughts were ahh the puck is disconnected or some board fault. I pushed it forward and shot off like a rocket and snapped a belt after mounting a huge boulder in a median strip. Sooo lucky this didn’t happen earlier.

[fessyfoo]

that’s crazy that it broke there without breaking the pot off the board first.