How to make an XT90 Loop Key

Awesome Brian @b264

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I usually take a piece of solid copper wire with 6mm diameter and bend it like a u.
Then solder it and put the amass isolation thingy without its core on top and fill it up with hotglue.


And yes, it’s dyed with the ritdye stuff :blush:

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An other reason to use the female part is that it would prevent you (or anyone else without a brain) to plug it into a battery XT90 connector (which also should be female), with likely nasty consequences.

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@b264 we need more of this type of content these kinds of tutorials are whats giving me hope i can build an esk8 and not a bomb.

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Nah. One of those keys in the photo is 5 times 14AWG solid copper – but making it sucked far more than making the other ones.


Simple 5 ply maple handle handcarved
With 8awg wire closing the circuit

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This was easy as hell compared to the stuff I make for clients XD

awesome, thanks @b264

would this be correct for a 10s2p li-ion and vesc?

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Yes, that is correct. I usually put it on the negative lead, but either one works.

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perfect, thanks!

Isn’t it safer, electrically speaking, to put a safety on the “hot” lead of a wiring rather than on the neutral?

Most BMS are wired with low side switching which means in most esk8 wiring, positive is not the “hot” side. It’s the shared connection between everything. Negative would be the “hot” side

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Hot and neutral are concepts based on how the wiring is done. In most automobiles negative is neutral since it’s the common path (usually the frame) for the circuits. Electrons actually flow from negative to positive.

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This diagram is all I needed :ok_hand:

Maybe you should add one to the first post @b264

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@moon Done :ballot_box_with_check:

Thanks @iespobolamas, I edited your image slightly and added it to the top post

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Thanks I felt like you taught us how to solder it all but not how to wire it thanks

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Awesome!

is there a reason some people use Anti Spark devices instead of a loop key? this seems way simpler and less likely to fail

Imo people chase the dream of perfectly watertight cases. Having a foolproof antispark with push to start inside the enclosure is a step closer to reaching that goal

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thanks, so there’s no functional difference in what they do?
I’ll stick with a loop key and some hot glue :)!

As to differences, @b264 aka “the breaker of antisparks” (yup I rebaptised you) would have more info as to why he keeps trying to have one that works :joy:

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