No. I personally have switched to only buying stormcores over the past year because I just value the convenience. And I believe they are the only ones with the RGB power button that shows remaining battery capacity.
As for their motors: they share the same manufacturer as Maytech, but they might be customized in some way to be slightly better. (Source: people don’t seem to overheat the lacroix 6396 motors as much as the maytech ones + my ass) Pricey, so Flipsky battle hardened might be a better choice, but definitely not a bad option.
Thank you for the input! Do you happen to have the formula to calculate what would be ideal for a 10S? What I’ve understood is that you can use any battery for any motor, but they may perform good or bad, but not be completely useless?
I have 170kv for a 10S, but Im quite sure that Verreal still use 170kv for their 12S battery pack.
Thanks a lot, this is great information!So it was the Stormcores that had the nice RGB switch. That’s something I would really love to put on my board
Lol you new around here Shua? Haven’t you seen Trampa’s history here
Also, you might be right, a lot of them seem to last very well. Not sure what that other person was saying about getting replacements. From what I’ve heard, despite the owner’s antics, their shipping is very quick and CS is good
Couple points
Frank isn’t the owner (almost sure that ted is)
Also I’m not talking from a perspective of them sueing people for no reason rather from how good their vescs and cs are
Both are better then just about any other vendor out there
Few come close to them
Most the guys shouting about how his actual parts are bad tend to be people who have never even bought anything from him before
I agree frank can take things to far but people have to stop ruining an entire company who make high quality esk8 parts and have good cs.
We don’t have enough good vendors to start ruining them
I just think we should start respecting trampa parts a bit more
Their quality is really top notch and when they’re do have issues they have been honest and faced them
Everyone made fun when they had that battery holder fiasco but I think most vendors would deny the issue and just claim it was user error
I don’t think we as a community have figured that out, at least not with dyno testing to backup the anecdotal claims. 190Kv on 12s performs very well for most people provided you can gear it properly (start with 25-35mph top speed). Personally I think 230Kv for 10s would be ideal, as it’s equivalent to 190Kv at 12s.
This is more or less true. You can certainly run 18s on a 190Kv motor, or 12s on a 130Kv motor but it won’t perform as well.
As you spin a typical 63mm outrunner past 8-10k RPMs, you start losing power to iron losses. The sweet spot seems to be around 6-8k but again no dyno testing to prove that. So if you run a 190Kv motor at 18s (12k RPMs), you are going to lose relatively more power to the wheels and generate more waste heat.
If you run 12s on a low Kv motor, you run into higher copper losses. Low Kv motor windings have a higher resistance than high Kv motors. Functionally you will need to push more amps to get the same amount of watts if voltage is kept the same. This generates more heat from those copper losses.
Finding that sweet spot between low copper losses and low iron losses (ultimately the best efficiency) is what determines the right Kv for a given voltage. We’ve mostly figured it out through trial and error, but a dyno would allow us to truly dial it in.
I’m a firm believer that gearing (and high motor amps) is the best way to get more torque, rather than lowering motor Kv. If you want more torque, start with lowering the top speed by changing gearing or tire size rather than Kv and make sure the motor amps are as high as the controller will allow.
bioboards is using a green spintend ubox, which also seems to have proven itself. However, they’re slightly larger than a stormcore. But they do have the UNI1 remote which is kind of awesome with its on screen telemetry.
Far as I know, the US site only sells the Supersports and the Jaws. They don’t sell the regular 12S Nazare or Lonestar anymore. So they have two flagships, both are higher voltage. And then they have the Jaws 2.0, which is 12s.
Ive killed a stormcore 60D. I mean i did short my charging positive wire on the casing, but thats besides the point (/s)
For real though, i love mine. So easy to setup, plug and play. The entire case is aluminium (aside from the front), i haven’t seen my mosfet temps higher than 45 deg, running 60 motor amps each side.
Love it so much i replaced it with a new one, and im going to try and repair the old one.
This information is priceless, thank you so much guys!
Ive had an eye out for the Torque board V2 deck but there is a giant thread here saying they are a scam?
Are their decks trash or is it worth getting? I want it because it looks very sleek with the battery case and its an incredibly strong deck, supposedly.
Ps. Had to wait quite a while to comment (new user)
Not a scam, but the seller is no longer great. In your shoes, I would get a Hummie deck and an enclosure from Bigben. (The Torqueboards enclosure is a bit thin and flimsy. Mine has been beefed up a bit with bedliner. Ben’s are way stronger.)