Yah this is what I was talking about
In smart reverse you can come to a full stop when rolling downhill, in forwards. When facing backwards, you cannot. It accelerates you
Yah this is what I was talking about
In smart reverse you can come to a full stop when rolling downhill, in forwards. When facing backwards, you cannot. It accelerates you
At 95% brake in smart reverse it applies the reverse, in hyst reverse it would only apply brake unless you let off and reapplied the brake.
Right, so it could potentially solve the issue
It’s not really an issue though, it works the way it’s meant to.
Duty cycle mode would have your desired braking behaviour but it has other, much larger, issues that will be unacceptable to you. Such as no coasting.
So idk what I did, but in sensorless FOC with no tweaking a got it much punchier than the stock setup, and with only 32A battery max and 60A motor max.
To get punchy, raise the motor current and lower the battery current.
Lol I think unacceptable to anyone
Anyways, the qualms I have with smart reverse are small, I may try out hyst. This is offtopic for this thread now, sorry OP
this whole thread was pretty useless from the start anyway.
Moral of the story: use good parts, don’t overdo the settings and build safe battery packs.
Not entirely. Not sure if you have read this thread yet but i have been doing full Evolve makeovers since a couple years ago. I think what you’re trying to do is similar to what i am doing since you are removing the annoying BMS and ESC now.
the board is already out of my hands, and the current rider is really happy with it.
I’ve skimmed that thread, it had a few useful entries that helped me out, mostly with the motors.
I really don’t want to work on another evolve, their proprietary fuckery is almost apple level bad.
taking a dremel to their enclosure and adding a loopkey did feel kinda good though.
Absolutely agree, i wouldn’t fuck with any evolve electronics. Everyone i know that got a battery upgrade like a 10s4p with the evolve BMS, would then get weird overheating/cutout issues, then eventually come to me and then i would just say, ‘lets remove everything except the deck, trucks and wheels’
personally, I hate the trucks and the deck too.
CF decks are shit, and DKP is just as bad.
Evolve 6" pneumies are like the only thing worth giving them money for.
Hey guys, the similar issue here, trying to use the GT battery for testing with VESC at the moment, if there a way to bypass the evolve BMS to charge only? Thanks
Are you using the LiPo pack with the evolve BMS?
The evolve BMS will not supply power unless it gets the correct code from the evolve ESC over the 4-pin UART plug. You need to use a new BMS to use a VESC.
The LiPo pack is really terrible as well, it’s best to get a Li-Ion pack.
It’s the lion pack by the labelling on the battery. I have ordered some cells for my own battery build, just shipping to NZ is terrible so they are taking a while, trying to use this spare battery to use the build for now. Hm, I was wondering as it seemed like this guy had some luck
I can’t seem to include links here but if you google “Need help with pairing EVOLVE stock BMS with VESC” then it seemed like that guy may have had some luck with it. I was thinking of bypassing discharge, and as long as the bms works for charging it shouldn’t need the uart?
Here is a photo of the current wiring of the BMS, and below is what I would think would allow the bypass. Apologies for the terrible mouse drawing.
I’m the one who worked on the build. there is no possible way to use the evolve BMS with a VESC. you can use a normal ESC with the evolve BMS or a normal BMS with a VESC, but the evolve BMS will only work with the evolve ESC and no other ESC.