This is wrong. The evolve bms can definitely be used as a charge only bms if wired in the configuration above.
Actually the more i read it, the more wrong it is.
The evolve esc will only work with the evolve bms wired for discharge. You cannot use anything but the evolve bms if you want to run the evolve esc
yes this is what I’m saying. it requires the proprietary BS over the 4-pin uart port.
ahh I see, I had things backwards. I’ll edit and fix it.
The evolve bms will work with anything.
Its the esc that has the fuckery in it.
for how cheap a BMS is though, I don’t see why one would ever want to use the evolve one.
Why would you pull apart a perfectly good battery just to swap the bms if you’re only gonna be using it charge only? There’s plenty of use cases for reusing the evolve bms.
Its small
Its already attached to the battery he wants to use
Its basically free cos he already owns it
He can modify it to suit his needs now rather than buying a new one, waiting for it to arrive, tearing out the old one, installing the new one…
I can’t see any good reason why he wouldn’t reuse it. Unless it wasn’t doing its job properly.
The CGT pack is a prismatic li-ion pack, it’s not actually lipo.
They’re crap though and IMHO they only used them because they fucked up making the deck and the battery tray wasn’t big enough for 18650 cells in the front.
Evolve also won’t admit that. Ask anyone who works on Carbon GTs and they will probably all agree.
Thanks a lot for the help. I got an old GT off for salvage for my DIY build so this battery is temporary but by the sounds of it it doesn’t look like it will be that much better than waiting for the cells to arrive. DIY in NZ is expensive as shipping cost and time takes up such a huge Chunk out of the build sadly. Thanks for the help.
FTFY
DIY isn’t cheaper, but it can be a LOT better if done correctly and of course you can build the exact machine you want instead of making compromises on prebuilts.
I always tell people that DIY isn’t cheaper, but you get more value.
Haha maybe not, although I’m doing the maths and currently with the setup and it brings mine I’m coming out 400 dollors cheaper than buying a hurricane and getting it shipped here but having similar specs so I’m going to call that a win.
You can also build a truly waterproof board and a truly serviceable board.
I’ve ridden in thunderstorms before, IDGAF. If I need to be somewhere, then I need to be somewhere!
just… not at the same time.
speaking of which my butyl tape solution needs some work
Btw do you guys know of the max continuous draw out of that gt battery?
It won’t be cheaper by the time you’re done. I’d bet on that. With screw-ups, tools that need to be bought, and time invested, it will nearly always be more expensive than a prebuilt.
IIRC 32A but I could be wrong, I’m basing that purely off my knowledge of their 18650 packs and not the prismatic pack.
If you draw very much it will sag LIKE A BEAST. Me personally, I would not try to draw more than 20A from it. And that’s basically because 20A is around the minimum you need for any decent amount of performance. You can still use high phase currents for “punchiness” though.
Yikes… that acceleration curve is going to be interesting
The joy of desgin and building it myself is far more valuable so I win in the end.
exactly! knowledge is the most valuable asset!