I’ve built a battery for someone’s evolve GT and it tested just fine, even through the BMS. everything seemed great until I plugged it into the evolve ESC (all plugs including UART from BMS) and the board just wouldn’t turn on.
IDK if there’s supposed to be a light in the power switch but there wasn’t any, and the remote didn’t connect.
I’m completely baffled, as I used the evolve GT’s BMS and wired it correctly and everything.
Is there some other proprietary thing I forgot to consider?
Edited stress errors.
For future readers:
I ended up replacing the BMS with a china 20A one in charge-only with direct discharge, replaced the ESC with a DV6 VESC and added a loopkey. Replaced the remote too and added a metr.pro.
Fuck evolve. Fuck what they build, fuck what they charge and fuck what they say.
I was under the impression that the BMS and ESC required each other to operate properly. If you’re using a VESC based controller instead, you’re better off using a different BMS for charging and then discharging directly to the VESC.
Unless…you’re already discharging directly to the VESC…at which point I don’t know. You’d have to post photos of the wiring.
It’s possible that their proprietary ESC and proprietary BMS exchange keys to unlock one another.
It’s also possible the inrush current on the VESC is too high and is tripping the BMS’s overcurrent protection and that their proprietary ESC has a smaller inrush.
41.96 and charging (according to indicator on charger)
Pack seems healthy, though p-groups aren’t all balanced yet (the cells within p-groups are within 0.05v of eachother) the evolve BMS looks like it’s charge only with some sort of logic passthrough with the switch. I feel like the power button isn’t connecting through the VESC to turn on the BMS. Not sure how I would fix that yet.
to be honest the paper towel was already there when I opened it, I’m as surprised as you. I’ll be putting on shrink wrap once I know everything works, and filling any empty space with thin strips of foam.
are you saying I’ve probably wired the entire battery back to front? would I have killed the ESC or BMS? or just the charge plug? so red is black and black is red?
No, + is - and - is + on the connector. Wire convention in normal. but actually if you didn’t replace the connectors that’s unlikely to have been an issue.
Personally, I don’t bother with upgrading the battery on Evolves anymore unless they’re willing to undergo an entire gutting of the board. The stock GT ESC is substandard in so many ways, that while new batteries reduce sag and add range, the ESC remains a persistent bottleneck.
Then I’d have stopped working, done a write up of what I would do to make this mod/build safe and functional, and then waited for a decision before proceeding. But I also no longer work on other people’s batteries (except for the trusted few here, but their batteries wouldn’t need actual work anyway). So…
Anyway, I’ll be following this thread. I’m interested to see the end result. Other folks here are WAY more familiar with Evolve’s operating paradigms than I am by far.
those cells are under 3-4 layers of kapton tape, but the pack will be wrapped before finishing, with additional foam added.
I am very tempted to detail a VESC upgrade for him. he was interested in it at the start, and it would allow him a much more reliable and safer build. no more “evolve ejection seat”.
update: client agreed to a full electronics upgrade while keeping the old evolve motors.
going to use a 10s4p Samsung 35e pack with a 10s 36V Daly BMS (charge only)
focbox Tenka only changing MR60 connectors to MT60 for the evolve motors, or giving the motors MR60 idk yet.
unsure whether to use the tenka switch or a loopkey, I know the tenka is known to have a shitty internal antispark.
Mini remote. at least it’s the same throttle style as his evolve r1
I plan to set the max battery amps to 30A, maybe 32A. any tips on keeping the performance at least close to a stock evolve? better performance is better obviously.
