If you want performance akin to a stock evolve, you might want to mess with the throttle curves a bit, evolves are pretty torquey from videos I’ve seen of them
I was planning to keep it linear, do you have any suggested values for me to start with? should I go polynomial positive or negative?
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Someone in a group chat explained this to me, I think it was @Takachi14
I’d try riding it with default curve first then try poly +10% or so and see if it gives it some more punch. I have yet to try these curves on my own board yet but I’m going to later this week.
Like I said, not ridden an evolve either but with only 30 battery amps you might want as much punch as you can get haha
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it’s the same size of pack the GTR uses stock, exact same cells (they’re actually pulled from an evolve GTR battery that had a bad BMS)
I see what you mean about the punchiness, I’ve had 2 bamboo GTRs so I know the feeling you’re talking about. not sure if I’ll be able to make it as smooth as the stock evolve though.
client also opted for smart reverse. I hope this doesn’t complicate the throttle curve.
Smart reverse should work fine with the curve or not, you can adjust throttle and brake curves independently
I personally love smart reverse, a necessity on street builds imo
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likewise, I recommended it as it’s indispensable at intersections, or if you miss a turn by a few feet and need to 3-point.
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i lowkey forgot smart recerse existed on my than build
complete curveball after running current for 6 months
Lmao I feel that - I love full current on my mtb
Smart reverse is a basic necessity
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Hyst reverse does everything smart reverse does, and more.
Current does almost everything hyst reverse does, and better than smart reverse.
My $0.02
Hyst and Current are both better than Smart
I keep trying out Hyst and while it might be better, I keep messing up while using it, it’s just not as intuitive as smart reverse.
maybe I just need to tweak it, I need my reverse to top out at a slower top speed than my forward throttle or I risk faceplanting.
This is a limitation that VESC software just doesn’t offer at the moment. Unless you don’t need brakes. (like a propeller, for example)
hence why I prefer smart reverse, I’m just no good at riding switch too
iirc there’s a setting that can limit max reverse erpm
and there are apps out there that let you set speed profiles so you can limit reverse speed
but i found a bug where if you already have a motor that was reversed so it spins the right direction, it will top out prematurely because it’s “in reverse” if that makes sense
hopefully it’s resolved in 5.3
…if you want disabled brakes. It’s called Minimum ERPM and you lose brakes if you exceed it.
ah
i haven’t played with it 
ignore the erpm thing then
I don’t really understand what hyst reverse does, do you have an explanation for it?
Pushing the trigger forward engages brakes. After you slow to a crawl or stop, you can let the trigger go, then push it forward again and it changes to reverse instead of braking. Once you use the forward throttle again, it changes to braking again.
TL;DR: brake while stopped to reverse
Hm interesting. Does this alleviate the issue of smart reverse on hills? As in, you brake while going up a hill but then roll backwards
In this case you brake, intending to stop, but it doesn’t work properly so you have to use forwards throttle to stop rolling down the hill
I’m not sure I understand.
There are no friction brakes. Prolonged braking up a hill in any mode will start you rolling backwards. Though in Hyst mode the brakes will also limit your backwards speed. In current or smart mode, you may be accelerated backwards down the hill.
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I don’t see where there’s an issue. Brakes will make you roll backwards of facing up a hill, that’s how motors work.
You want a soft throttle for that.