Help Battery warms up! #if you DIY do it properlY

Hi
I got a dual battery setup which I’ve been using for a couple months now. Since installing cloudwheels I noticed something odd.
After under 10km (usual range at least 20) the remote starts vibrating indicating battery is low and it stops taking throttle. But when rolling again the battery indicator jumps back up sometimes around 10v, usually from 44v back to 50v.

I know this is normal but when I touched the batteries after my ride I noticed the one that I removed a couple days ago got warm and the other didn’t. Is it normal for the battery to heat up while riding?
Asking so I know which battery enclosure I have to check.
My thought is either one battery is not connected properly anymore and thus doesn’t heat up or the other one heats up because of some malfunction maybe shorting somewhere

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Forgot to mention that I recently had to change my charging port because of some unforseen “malfunction”


Rough build I know :sweat_smile:

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I would guess you came from smaller wheels and now are pulling more amps in order to move the bigger wheels? Is the battery made in China? Sounds like (and I’m speculating here bc I haven’t seen the inside of the pack) the series connections can’t handle the current and are creating heat, hence the burn marks You may also have some broken welds. I wouldn’t run that battery any more if I were u. Have you looked inside the battery enclosure?

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Also one OF the cells could be dead or malfunctioning. Can you check every series voltage to see if the pack is balanced?

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This, and it may be dangerous to operate or charge.

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Should have said the charging port blew while inserting the charger from a bad angle.
The battery packs were bought so I haven’t build them myself.
The ESC settings are the same as before if you meant that by pulling more amps.
Battery is 2x 14s2p could send you Fotos but they’re shrink wrapped in that blue stuff

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So I should open the battery pack and check every single cell?

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That’s the battery I’m using

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If been riding like that for a couple days now🙈

Do you have enough knowledge and comfort to take the shrink wrap off and measure p-group voltages and check all of your series voltages? If you don’t know anything about battery packs I would get someone else to look at it.

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You need to fuse your charge port, and maybe add your country to your profile.

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Ya it would also be helpful to know where you are…

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I’m comfortable using a multimeter to check it as long I don’t have to spotweld anything.

What sort of Fuze do I need? Got no clue about that.

I’m from germany

I use these fuses, but if you talk to other German members they might have some or know a local source

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I think I can get those from the Mechanic I work for.

Looking at the charging time one battery must be dead or disconnected it recharges roughly half the time it used to and the battery doesn’t warm up while charging, is that a good sign?

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So open it up, check voltages for each p-group.

Also check voltages from the 1st group progressively to the last. Measure from main neg terminal to pos on cell 1, then 2 etc… All the way to 14. You should get progressively higher voltages as you do each new cell.

Take lots of pics, especially if you see burn marks anywhere. Clear your work space of all metal. Use a plastic or ceramic knife to remove the shrink wrap. Cover exposed connections when not in use.

Be very careful

Report back and post lots of pictures.

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OK will do that

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Pretty sure it got wet…

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Could the batter temp wire occasionally shorting be the reason for the sudden loss of battery?

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Defiantly moisture in there and metal showing on the corner of the cells

I think I don’t need to measure the cells. Is the battery savable? Like let it dry out and hope for the best sort of style?

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