I know nothing about the controllers. From what I can tell, they are the 2 long metal rectangles that hang next to the battery compartment (i think)? I was planning to replace them (but maybe i shouldn’t?)… Without a battery first, I suppose there is no simple way to test whether they work or not? There is also some sort of digital screen up on the handle part where you could select different gearing, etc? First step seems to be getting a battery solution sorted. I was thinking the molicel 21700 cells 10s. 8p would get me to the original specs that allegedly last for 2 rounds. Or, I could just go with ~5 or 6p if i wanted to just build it for single round use? I know nothing about the motors either… other than they are 1000w each.
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Do you guys think there is even any value in trying to use the old controllers and such? Or, should i just replace it all with more modern stuff? I’d feel a little better knowing that everything is new / tested / etc. But, I also don’t want to just throw away money if this stuff is serviceable. Just hard to plan anything when I don’t know what’s what. 
If you need a pack built let me know 
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If you had some power supply unit then you could give it what it needs to test things out otherwise wait for the battery to hook it up and find out
A lot of the “off the shelf” 36V 20ah batteries I see have max discharge rates of 50A with continuous rates around 25-30A. Being that I am running TWO 1000w motors, will I need to have a higher continuous discharge rate? What happens if the discharge rate from the battery is too low for the motors? How do I know how many amps they will both need at full power?
If you plan to do 5p-ish thats 5*30A=150A probably more than enough assuming P42A cells.
I mean batteries like this: 10s4p P42A Battery Pack – Duck Battery Systems
Granted, i think that one would be a little too small (5p is probably the min i should consider). But, it says “Delivered Energy @40A Discharge to 36.0V: 537.3Wh”
Wouldn’t I need more than that to power two 1000w motors simultaneously?
hi Matt
I’m new here too but having similar challenge.
I bought one of these too about a month ago and mine has a burnt out controller PSU and a flat non charging battery. Gets up to about 9 volts with the charger supplied
(which when tested puts out 42volts which going by my ebike that’s about right. )
Battery is 36v 30AH BTW
Been down the route of contacting the company however as its a 2015 model V1 they have no parts and would be super expensive anyhow. Gave the PSU to a tech savy friend and he says there is a protective waterproofing coating on it which probably contributed to the burn out! Meant for OZ not damp UK poss.
I emailed the company about parts or getting the V2 upgraded single PSU - They answered Unfortunately the V2 ran a completely different operating system to the V1 and there isn’t the option to swap out any of the cpu’s for these. At this stage, the possible best option may be to source someone locally that works on circuit boards that may be able to replace the bad componentry on the board itself.
Re your battery I think any competent battery builder could replace the dud cells on yours and mine battery. Looked into building bike batteries but can be a fire hazard so poss best leaving to someone who knows more 
Colin
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Good to see I am not the only one, Colin. I am getting a similar run-around from the original company. Although they did just tell me they use the same motors in some tricycle they make. So, that was encouraging. But, yeah, the controllers are gone, as is just about everything else.
I got mine for $400 bucks, so it was worth the gamble. I am DETERMINED to get it working though, even if i have to replace just about everything on it. Will be SOOOO much fun zipping around the course making all the walkers jealous. Those dudes pay 2-3K for morotized carts that just follow behind them like robots. LOL
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Battery amps and motor amps are different you should be fine. Also that’s rating for at 40A discharge which I believe the battery should be more than capable of I believe
I’m much the same like the idea of getting it going. Much cooler on the course than a buggy or a sit on scooter.
I’m about the same cost out … got the hand controller. Think that works through the controller black box nearer the front of the board. Watched a lot of vids about it … would be handy to get a wiring diagram.
Fingers crossed it’s fixable !
Well guys… not so good news to report. 
I bought a cheapo chinese amazon battery just so I could do some trouble shooting and not cry too hard if something went wrong in the process… https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BG5KZQW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Well. I got it hooked up to the caddy. I was able to power it on and pair one of the old remotes. I pulled the trigger, it moved about 2 inches… i heard a pop, and smoke then poured out of the batter connectors between the battery and the first controller.
Any idea what I’ve done? Now I am afraid to try anything else.
This has been a frustrating process already, and I’m not even halfway there yet.
If I am going to have to replace everything… controllers, motors, etc. I suppose in some ways that takes some of the guesswork out of it, which is good. HOWEVER… I can’t seem to find any information about torque and low end power for different esk8 motor options? I don’t care at all about speed, I just want to make sure it can climb hills no problem with a LOT of weight. The “board” itself empty is about 70 pounds, plus battery, plus full set of clubs, plus me… I am gussing we’re talking somewhere between 300-350 lbs all in?
What would you guys recommend for the two motors and VESC to drive them? Is there a way to gear them down so the focus is on torque instead of speed?
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To gear down you’d have to focus mainly on the pulleys and gear ratio. Are you looking to get new motors now?
What popped exactly? Do you have pictures of carnage?
It was at the connector between the battery and the first controller. Both are now charred black. 
On motors, I was thinking of FIRST buying a new VESC and trying to connect them to a new controller first? They each have a single mt30 connector, and a 5 pin small round black circular connector (unsure of name).
The battery wiring seems awfully small for the size of the battery? The red/blacks are only 14AWG. I don’t know much… but, i know that’s likely not good.
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Yeah I’m no expert on what happens when you try to pull too many amps through wires that can’t handle it, but I do know it’ll get very hot.
Yeah that should work, buy a new VESC controller then go from there. Are you going to try and connect that battery that you bought to the VESC though?
Seems like that is probably a bad idea. Lol
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