This has been a frustrating process already, and I’m not even halfway there yet.
If I am going to have to replace everything… controllers, motors, etc. I suppose in some ways that takes some of the guesswork out of it, which is good. HOWEVER… I can’t seem to find any information about torque and low end power for different esk8 motor options? I don’t care at all about speed, I just want to make sure it can climb hills no problem with a LOT of weight. The “board” itself empty is about 70 pounds, plus battery, plus full set of clubs, plus me… I am gussing we’re talking somewhere between 300-350 lbs all in?
What would you guys recommend for the two motors and VESC to drive them? Is there a way to gear them down so the focus is on torque instead of speed?
It was at the connector between the battery and the first controller. Both are now charred black.
On motors, I was thinking of FIRST buying a new VESC and trying to connect them to a new controller first? They each have a single mt30 connector, and a 5 pin small round black circular connector (unsure of name).
The battery wiring seems awfully small for the size of the battery? The red/blacks are only 14AWG. I don’t know much… but, i know that’s likely not good.
What doesn’t make ANY sense to me, however… Is that from what I thought I knew… There is no such thing as the system trying to “pull” more power through. If anything, it should be the opposite… Because the smaller wire comes right out of the battery itself, it should just potentially not supply enough power at all? I don’t think that has anything to do w the sparking / melting. The original manufacturer suggested they think there is a short in the controllers somewhere causing it. Which, of course, they have no advice on replacing.
Wish there was someone I could find in Charlotte to help me diagnose and create a strategy for this thing.
Hey … been contacting Oz and USA suppliers, both basically saying same thing -
Hi Colin,
Unfortunately with this old model, there is no more production of the CPU modules as the company that p[roduced this for us has closed down through Covid and is no longer in operation, so we dont even have the contact available to get original diagrams or componentry used… We dont have any alternative parts or options for these. If you have someone that is in your area that specialises in circuit boards, they may be able to investigate and repair what has been damaged or faulty.
Mine was one side front or rear burnt out … even worse lots of vids on Youtube showing new PSU’s getting slotted in.
Bit of a restriction we cant post images or Vids on here !
Yup. Same. They offered me a “deal” on a new one for the low low price of 3499.
Can u message me the video links? I have been hunting and hunting for some rebuild videos but haven’t been able to find anything. Are u saying u found some?
Still wating on photos depending on what it is makes a difrence. we talking about li ion thay have enouth power to Vaporise metal in some scenarios we use them to spot weld. A ESC caps have a huge inrush why we use anti spark connectors and switches.
So fare iv seem MT60 XT60 that are rated to 60A burst 30A continues.
1000w motor means nothing could be caped out at 10A (plug it in a VESC do a calibration VESC software will calculate the max amps for you to a fairly accurately.
Worst case 1000W / 42V 23A any good 10S1P with good cells can take that. No need for a huge 8p pack unless you want range.
This adapter was between the battery (t connector end) and the first xt60 you are zoomed in on which goes into the first controller. There is a switch on the controllers that is currently routed up the post to a controller on the handle bar. The sizzle happened on the xt60s. Both of them are equally charred now. Battery still seems ok and is showing ~38volts.
Did you verify polarity of that battery-to-controller connection first? Sure hope you have and are using a multimeter as you diagnose and work on this.
I’m pulling for you and @gscbuild to succeed in resurrecting these beasts and enjoy rallying around the golf course!
You’re in good hands here with some of the world’s foremost pev experts. Continue providing info - AND PHOTOS !
Do you think this is a power switch? I would start by useing a multi meter seeing if rotating the switch makes and brakes polarity by switching it.
If it was plugged in switched on with no anti spark this could happen or the ESC could be shorted.
2nd I would try powering it up with a PSU (Most chargers are PSU’s should boot up check if there’s and very slowly add a small amount of throttle the wheels should turn. To mutch throat and to many amps will be demanded from the charger and it will drop the voltage or cut out but shouldn’t damage any thing. It the charger voltage drops as soon as it’s turned on id suspect the ESC is tost
I am 90+% sure the ESC is toast as Darkie suggested. Nothing happened when I first plugged it in. And nothing happened after I turned on the switch… Smoke came out after the wheels rolled for just a split second. Now the display is dead (which is also where the power button is).
I am ordering a new VESC. Is the Flipsky dual 4.20 what I want??? Get the pro w the included switch? I had already installed a separate anti-static switch but not sure if that is now toast or not too?
