I’m looking for a 12s charger, I have a C600M SKP style charger which I would absolutely love to buy another one but my current c600m is 12s 12a with a switch on the back to change between 110v and 220v, when shopping for a replacement I can only seem to find 12s 10a variations which would be okay if it could switch between 110 and 220 but I can’t seem to find anybody offering that option.
Anybody better at online shopping maybe able to help me out?
Hey guys,
I picked up a backup set of NewBee 4GS gear drives from MBoards, and they came with Matrix III clamps that I know I won’t end up using.
If anyone needs a set, feel free to hit me up — I’d rather see them get used than sit around.
I wish you good luck with 4gs 
trust me you’ll need it
I had nothing but good experiences with the 4GS drives I owned
The Exway variable charger had a big price drop and i think is on sale right now, what’s your budget?
Ive had really good experience with the 4gs, what issues did you have? Are you still using them or you have something else now?
Reading through older threads, it seems like a lot of people assumed these came fully assembled and properly locked down from the start, but they actually come assembled without any Loctite and the screws are pretty loose out of the box. I’m wondering if that reputation just stuck because of a few bad assumptions.
Personally, I’ve had a great experience so far — they feel super smooth. That said, on my first setup I didn’t have them tightened close enough to the wheel, and I’m pretty sure that led to some damage on one side (which is why I ended up grabbing a backup set).
From what I can tell, there are just a few key things to get right during setup. Once everything is properly tightened and secured with Loctite, they seem to hold up really well.
You can read it here.
My friend’s 4GS ended up the same… In a trash and also with broken plastic teeth.
How to the liveliness of titotrucks compare to metroboard x trucks?
I know probably very few people have experienced both.
Kinda different eras of esk8
Metroboard trucks are just CNC DKPs right?
I’d say it definitely depends on your setup for both trucks. Titos can feel super lively and turn really well, and are heaps more stable for any given turning ability. You also don’t really need bushing resistance on Titos to feel stable. I even rode them with no bushings over for the lolz, if I remember up to around 27mph… Suprisingly it was somewhat rideable, but that’s too lively 
However they are genuinely fun with very soft front bushings or even no front bushings at all. I have this cursed and very playful bushing setup that I love on mine on the Haero deck: 88A WFB barrel / 92.5A APS cone front, 95.5A WFB fatcone / 96A Krank fatcone rear. All bushings tall of course. Lean stoppers removed, trucks redrilled further out, extra clearance grinded into the deck to achieve full lean (33 deg truck articulation). Probably at least as carvy as you can setup DKP to feel while still being somewhat stable, yet Titos feel perfectly fine at this setup cruising at top speed around 39mph.
In comparison my carvy and fun (cast) DKP setup gets uncomfortable above 25-26 and I didn’t dare push it past 29mph yet. And it took around 100 miles feeling comfortable on them to these speeds. First ride I could just cause a perpetual wobble at 15mph on this exact setup. I’d bet it’s setup much carvier than most people set their DKPs though. The boardside kingpins (progressiveness factor) are setup to be quite dead, the roadside kingpins are setup very lively.
From these two boards my experience is that Titos lean more than the DKPs for the same turn as they are a bit lower angles. But you’ll like that when you get used to it. And if not, wedge them up a bit. If you ride tight DKPs, there’s no reason not to switch to Titos. If your DKPs are setup super carvy (like, you just think about turning and the board turns under you…) then it’s not the exact same feel but both are be fun and incredibly turny.
Comparing the two boards I’m talking about is a completely different experience though - the haero on titos is a carving madness on 9x3.5 slicks and gear drives and lets you lean forever, the DKP board is a direct drive urethane cruiser / carver. Completely difference vibe. When I plan to chill at 15 mph on perfect asphalt, I’d choose the direct drive DKP setup every time. The Haero can do the same tight carves at much higher Gs but requires a bit more work than a super soft DKP setup.
Sounds like I need to switch over.
The Metroboard x trucks do feel a little dull for the actual input that I give them.
Which I like but it’s a completely different ride.
They seem like they lack response time a little almost.
I’m so used to twitchy ass stooge trucks that I feel like I need super twitchy trucks even for a leisurely ride.
Sounds like I definitely gotta try that middle ground and just go for it.
Yeah stooge stuff is quite twitchy. I never personally managed to stand on a 3 link setup that felt good to me, other than the small one on the mad125s. I’m sure you can make the Titos work really well though. The bushing setup up here sounds like a decent starting point if you want it very playful. Feel free to hit me up for bushing advice though once you have them, I played quite a lot with the bushings. Probably also worth drilling a kingpin access hole into the deck.
Will do, excited to get ahold of both sets!
Thanks bence I appreciate it
Hey! I have a board that has an 8mm axel. I bought a set of mbs rockstar pro ii hubs i want to attach. The bearings it seems need to be 8mm id x 28mm od x 8mm width. These bearings seem to not exist. Is there a bearing type i should get with spacers? What would be the best approach? Cheers
638 2rs bearings are what you want but are 9mm wide so they’ll stick out a hair. No big deal in most cases as you should only be contacting the inner diameter of the bearing with spacers.
Thanks! that makes sense.
I may have to abondon the project due to the axel not being long enough to have both the mbs pulley and rockstar wheel and still be able to have the nut screw on completely. Unless there is a safe way to have it extend a bit?
Thanks again
Or, 608 2rs bearings? slightly thinner, would this work safely?
Yeah I’d run them and just watch for any rubbing and adjust with spacers accordingly. There are deeper rim styles that take up less axle too but that gets pricey
Well my budget WAS gonna be less than that but that’s really compact and variable up to 22s I think I’ll just bite the bullet on the cost especially since it was like $400+ last I checked.
This is exactly what I’m looking for though you’re the best bananaman.
@ShutterShock you have this charger right?
Do you know if it has a physical 110v/220v switch or if it automatically switches when plugged in?
Or (hopefully not) if it’s set by the factory at purchase and can’t be changed?
