Thank you! It’s a Mboards motor, I’ll ask if they have the bearing for sale.
I’ve found that when I’ve used diff oil in my bearings it’s clung to the metal and prevented corrosion from wet riding far more than when I’ve used grease.
I always pour quite a few extra drops of diff oil down the shaft when reassembling a motor.
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Fun fact.
Gear oil viscosity is measured differently than engine oil viscosity.
Viscosity Comparison Examples
SAE 80W gear oil =~ SAE 10W-30/40 engine oil.
SAE 90 gear oil =~ SAE 50 engine oil.
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Another fun fact:
You shouldn’t be riding in a 60 zone, doing 62, on a skateboard, and with a beer in your hand called “jetpack” . All I could say tonight was “Sorry, I didn’t know… officer” .
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One group on my 16S8P is showing 0V. Confirmed with multimeter. This is awful I haven’t gotten much use from it yet.
What are my options?
Ignore it and use as 15S? If so, with or without shorting that group?
Can I replace it? I have quite strong balance charging and could cycle it quickly a bunch of times beforehand.
Also what could have happened? The rest are all around 3.3v. One cell’s welds failed and the group dropped fast? Would it really go to 0v? Is the whole pack suspect for the same failure?
This is vastly more upsetting than being broken up with 
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I have some wheels, AT style that the pully is integrated into the wheel but it blocks some of the motor mounts making belt adjustments a pain. I can’t tighten all of the bolts since the wheel and pully block some of these. It’s not an issue on the kegel pullies, since the wheel is off but wonder how do others manage this? At best I can tighten 3 of the 4 bolts on the motor mount.
I would get the tension where you like it with the wheel on, tighten the couple bolts you can reach, then remove the wheel/pulley and tighten down the remaining screws.
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You’d need to remove the dead group from the pack, you can’t just ignore
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Could I just solder a wire across that group so it doesn’t take charge? Because it would be very hard to remove.
Or is there danger that a cell got broken off and could get pushed back against the nickel releasing 1.5kw?
Without seeing the pack construction it’s hard to say.
jumping past the group is totally doable, and if the group is truly at 0v then the risk of that group causing any issues seems really low, unless as you say there may be potential for it to be connected in another way.
ideally you’d remove it, but if you can be sure the group is definitely 0v and has no way of connecting with adjacent groups, i’d do the jump thing.
I’m wanting to dye my belts a specific colour. Do yall think an acrylic paint marker would do the trick??
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Yes, they’ll get dusty and dark over time but it’s a quick way to add a pop of color
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I need a legit guide on crimping jst connectors. I have the tool but i keep destorying the small connector cage. 
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Lining up the metal piece in the tool before you insert the wire into it is crucial.
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Do you have a photo of that connector before it’s crushed? Which JST series is that?
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On the tool I use (which I imagine is similar to others?) I have to put the end of the connector sticking out the side of the crimper so it doesn’t get crushed, and only the parts that grab the wire are inside the tool. Shitty drawing but like this
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Ok i see that much better now. Thanks.
@b264 took me awhile to figure out its a “z” type
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Crimping jst is my least favorite thing in diy to do. And the thing I finding myself doing the most. Practice makes perfect…
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This is cool.
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