Do you have a multimeter and a link to your throttle or a manual for it? The first thing I’d check is the resistance as you turn the throttle. If it’s something like this: Domino Potentiometer Throttle , you should get a smooth change in resistance from 0 to 5k ohms as you turn the throttle. That would at least let you know if the throttle is operating normally. It sounds like, most likely, you just need to map the throttle. There should be a mapping tab under ADC like this:
1 Like
Oh also, at the bottom there should be this:
You can use that to see what the signal is from the throttle live and have those values applied once you’ve run through the full range of throttle.
1 Like
I’d like to add that you will probably need to click the RT APP button on the right side if no values are showing in that field.
4 Likes
Hello, I recently purchased a flipsky vx2 pro remote with receiver. My old remote was the exact same one but broke. I replaced receiver and sync remote but wheels are not spinning. I purchased a vesc tool app but the board doesn’t have Bluetooth connection. Is there a link I can I use to configure the board? Thank you
You can download vesctool from vedders site for free. If you don’t have Bluetooth, then use USB or buy a Bluetooth module. It’s extremely handy having a Bluetooth module
If you’re new to vesctool, I think the full version is more intuitive to understand. A laptop might be best.
Did you plug the new receiver into to same channel vesc as the old one? If you didn’t, that would cause it to not work because of the settings.
I would avoid rewriting (updating) ESC firmware solely because a tool suggests it, or solely because a new version is available. It’s high-risk, low-reward. If you have some other reason to rewrite, that’s different. But tool suggestions or existence of other versions just seems like an invitation for trouble. This isn’t a computer operating system, you don’t need to update for those reasons. It could also reset all your motor detection settings and everything and make it not work anymore. Just don’t update it unless you know what you’re doing. Just edit. 
1 Like
Test a spot by getting it wet, if it looks better wet a clear coat would help make it shine through better.
2 Likes
What an interesting way to check, it does look better once wet, any recommendations for the cover coat?
- Sand it with 1200 grit, wet.
- Buy a box of piss.
- Go to a paint and panel shop
- Find a worker with a beard, lunch time could be the best opportunity. Ask if he’ll spray it with the the next job for you.
2 Likes
Eh its a skateboard
- scuff it up with scotchbrite
- Buy a cheap rattle can clearcoat
- Spray it a couple of times
- Build it, skate it, scratch it, get it dirty
3 Likes
I where a chance it’s not actually carbon, but maybe like a skin? How could I test? Where is one part of the board, slightly unfinished and the “carbon” is out a tiny bit, seems like plastic, not carbon.
It looks like real carbon to me, based on how the pattern of the weave changes right before the recesses for the baseplates, and the hardware holes look to have a 2mm thickness of it just above the blue core material.
I’d just take a gloved finger and some superglue to that scratch, if I bothered to do anything at all.
I second the rattle can method, id take some 400 or 600 grit to it wet to scuff it well and clean the surface - give it an iso wipe - mask off what you don’t want overspray on - then wipe it again - then wipe it again - then spray it. Personally i have had best luck positioning it so drips will only appear in masked spots and doing the first coat light - second one heavy enough to self level. Then let it dry in a warm area after the worst of the vapors flash off.
I also have fewer lint and bugs landing on it if i make a cardboard cover with tape and hot glue to prevent anything falling on it until it has firmed up a bit - the cardboard can make dust itself but a couple light sprays with whatever partial cans i have sitting around locks it down pretty well to limit that
Honestly just a little cleaning and a quick spray or two to shine up the existing clear coat without getting too complicated will look great. Will likely hide that scratch well too. Then when it gets new scratches hit it again.
If a skateboard isn’t scratched, then it isn’t being loved enough
2 Likes
I do agree.
Whenever I’m glassing or epoxying another enclosure or deck, I layer up the remains in my cup over the enclosures of my most ridden board, despite the colour.
I couldn’t give a rats what the enclosure finish was like, it’s gonna be scuffed to fuck in five minutes anyway.
1 Like
I’m suspecting my motor bearing is going out, no matter how I tenstion the belt, it’s making a werid creak sound that is super annoying. Is there a way to replace the bearing or these motors a sealed unit?
Yes, remove the circlip at the base of the motor shaft and pull the can away from the stators. Watch out for pinching when the can pop back in place, shit hurts. 
For bearings idk what’s the spec, maybe @Pecos can enlightened me.
3 Likes
You can change them. This is one such motor (an older model)
You’ll need to take it apart, measure the bearings, buy new ones, then reassemble it.
1 Like
Best to pull the bearings and swap in new ones there is sometimes a shim spacer or wave spring washer under the circlip or even between the stator and rotor on the motor shaft - don’t lose it or if it has play (motor can can be shifted before removing the circlip) you can pick up a sub mm precision spacer kit on amazon for a couple bucks.
Bearing size should be laser etched somewhere on it or on the shield (edit i think that’s the wrong bearing model - i might have some to check later)
1 Like