Bippity Boppity
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/inline-fuse-holders/3375234/
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Nice I was planning on doing exactly this.
How do you replace it if it blows? Cut the assembly out?
Generally it doesn’t blow. In the one case I ever needed to, it was as easy as epoxying a new one in there somewhere.
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I got some that are impossible to solder to, what kind is that? so I don’t ever get them again
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I don’t know, but if you’re in the USA,
There are easier options 
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ive checked almost all websites and can’t get the 58v to Aus for less than 25$. I can get 10a 32v locally, is that too small?
have got a 42v 2a charger
Yes the amp rating is far more important. If you can only find 32V fuses, those will work fine.
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Stop. Voltage rating is a pretty fucking big deal. I have to be honest though, I’m not quite sure how important when it’s only 26V difference, since I’ve never seen arcing at such low voltages. I’ve not seen that much though, so please correct me if I’m wrong 
That said, when dealing with higher voltages that are able to arc, it’s pretty fucking important. The system voltage voltage HAS to be lower than the rating, otherwise there is a risk of arcing occurring between the fuse terminals when blown, which makes the fuse totally useless, get hot and most likely start a fire.
In case you wanna learn more (which you definitely should since I was just like you before), here is a good video.
Now don’t ever tell me that voltage isn’t that big of a deal, thanks
edit: good job, only 22 days later, haha…
I work with glass tube fuses on a daily basis and do not recommend these in high vibration environments.
There is a reason why we don’t use these in cars
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The voltage isn’t irrelevant, and you are correct, but I feel like using a fuse that will probably work 99% of the time if some fuckup occurs, is a lot better than just not putting a fuse there, because a 58V one can’t be found in whatever-country-stuff-is-hard-to-import.
And that’s often the situation that presents itself in improvised one-off custom electrical vehicle engineering.
So I maintain that if you can only find 32V fuses and you have a 50V battery, then use one on the charge port, over not using a fuse there.
This is the difference between real life, and theory.
Obviously, it’s better if your fuse voltage exceeds your battery voltage. But that’s often not the point. The point is frequently, “This is all I have, should I use it or not?”. Yes, you should use it.
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I think the whole saying of “better than nothing” is really debatable. Mostly because in most cases I’m “either you do it or don’t”, which is the complete opposite of that.
In this case though, I don’t necessarily think that it’s better than nothing. The fuse will only ever be in actual use when it blows, which is also the exact same time this issue occurs.
Since I don’t know how many volts is actually required for arcing to occur, I can’t really say much other than following the spec sheet. That said though, I got a feeling that when dealing with such low voltages, it won’t ever be an issue, however that’s just my opinion and not actual facts.
Now to the “if not available” part, which is definitely a thing, unfortunately… I noticed that @muf lives in Australia, so here you go
edit:
One of the more useful times to have a fuse installed though, is probably when you’re messing around with wires and accidentally touch the 2 terminals together. Having a fuse blown there, will prevent the 2 wires from welding together (which you already know…), which otherwise can get really fucking serious (maybe not for charge wires though…). In that case, I 100% agree that “better than nothing” is spot on, as I seriously doubt that voltage rating will ever be important, since the short circuit will be non-existent right after the wires stop touching. Just opinion and thoughts though…
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hey mate I’m pretty sure those are just au.websites and still ship from a global warehouse because it ships with American delivery services and the cheapest is still $24
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I think you’re spot on about them shipping from a global warehouse. Just noticed it said free delivery, which turns out to be because I had 60 AUD worth of stuff in my cart. Sorry about the confusion…
Doesn’t it take something like 3000 volts to ionize air and bridge a gap of 1mm? We’re dealing with 50 volts max here. That’s probably why you’ve never seen it.
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When a fuse starts to blow though the gap is much less than a micron wide. Even a low voltage can jump it (arc) unless suppressed.
There’s a lot more at work here though and whether the arc can be self-sustaining for long enough to allow damage to the device or cause the fuse to explode is dependent on a lot of things I don’t know enough about. I do know that using a fuse with the proper voltage rating is important though, especially at higher voltage and current levels.
Fuse voltage ratings and safety standards for them (and their use) wouldn’t exist unless there were possible issues with using the wrong rating.
Can we get away with using a lower voltage rating? Perhaps we can in a lot of circumstances. But IMO being lucky should never be a guide for safety-related stuff. 
I understand @b264’s argument but what often happens is someone seeing a 58V fuse costing a bit more to order, or take longer to ship, and they decide to use a lower voltage one instead. I agree it’s better to use the lower voltage one than none at all but urge anyone doing this to order the 58V ones too (probably at a low cost but long shipping) and use them when they arrive.
We have enough safety issues to deal with. Let’s go the extra mile and advise those who ask to do everything they can to stick within the ratings. It’s just too easy to go down the path of letting more and more of these ratings slide further and further in our relentless drive for cheaper, tinier, faster. It’s already made so many of the ESCs, BMS’, and AS switches available to us hopelessly unreliable.
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