Got a source? I’m always looking to learn stuff like this. Thanks.
1 Like
No source specifically for the 30q other than my own experimenting, but most quality INRs can handle 2C charge current with temperature monitor. My test was pretty simple, at 4.1v on a cell, I hit it with 5V 6A for 3 seconds using only CC (hard stop), the voltage at the cell did not go over 4.3, so it should keep vesc from over voltage at 12s in that scenario.
4 Likes
Ok source for this now? 
2 Likes
Hmmm, that is a strange one. Try jumping the power switch with the leads. With those tiny pins its hard to do with tweezers. Honestly, Im grasping in the dark here.
2 Likes
Ok I’ll try tonight
1 Like
-some flashlight forum that I can’t seem to find that thread again. But samsung seems to rate cells conservatively anyhow, i.e. 15a vs 20, it stands to reason the charge rate is conservatively rated too.
2 Likes
Yeah I’m on you about it because the standard for charging lithium ion has been 1C, 3A for 30Q. But samsung says standard charge is 0.5C for 30Q. If the cells are happy at 2C charge, why would sammie derate them so far? Anyway, that’s what’s going on in my head.
I agree it’s usually heat that degrades cells, and charging fast heats up cells.
BTW I’m a huge flashlight whore. scared to take a count.
1 Like
I’m not sure the cells are “happy” at 2C, probably as happy as they would be at 20a discharge. I think 2C continuous charge would severely impact the cells lifespan. (thats fully charging a dead board in 40 minutes or so). I would imagine less than half the cycles than at 0.5c if done constantly. But for momentary regen purposes that lasts only a few seconds at a time, I think its worth the extra performance with a minor hit on the pack’s lifespan.
The new(ish) XHP70 chip is insane. The amount of light from one chip is bonkers.
Edit: in thinking about it, fast charging a 12s12p 30q pack would mean feeding it 50.4v at 72A. You would need a 240v line or 120v with a minimum 40A breaker
5 Likes
Exactly, its better to shorten the battery life a bit and have brakes than to die due to the lack of it. And even so I really doubt that the really short high current charge has any meaningful impact on the overall life
Unless you have a BMS that will cut power once the board reaches 4.2V per cell (one more reason to use a bypass on it), crank the current as much as needed for you to have a strong brake for when you need
Your cells even when fully charged won’t explode if charged a bit more, just look at the datasheets of the reputable manufacturers, the tests are brutal and they can’t catch on fire to be approved
1 Like
did any of you experience the issue of having all the untiy leds (red, green, blue) lit up and the unity doesnt react to anything connected to it and the app doesnt recognize it?
Hey guys anyone know why the focbox unity will just turn off randomly? hasn’t ever done this but i did just flash the firmware to 23.46, is there something wrong with 46, if so where can i grab an earlier version.
Have you checked to see if any faults are thrown? I don’t think my Unity has ever turned off randomly. I had to flash the firmware twice via USB-C before it worked properly for whatever reason.
what would a fault be
the box turned off after it was unplugged
Also, I’ve got an issue connecting my remote to the box, could that be an issue with the reciever, if so how would i get another. this is all for a raptor 2.1
This all happened after you flashed the firmware? Have you tried again? I had a weird issue where my remote wouldn’t connect, then it did but the Unity wouldn’t respond to any input. I had to re-flash.
well its a real long story, but after i reprogrammed the boot loader, and flashed 23.46 onto the focbox, i was no longer able to use my remote with it, and the remote blinks and has never had a problem, so i assume the remote receiver is the problem
Alright… so I in a predicament. I was playing around with the FOC frequency and basically I accidentally wrote “0” as that value using the metr app. The Unity will not respond to the remote input even though it connects to the receiver. When I go to the expert tab in Metr is says FW 0.0 not supported. I can’t connect it to my Windows 10 PC… I tried taking the metr module out which didn’t help; I don’t have the original on me right now. I can’t connect via the enertion app. What did I do… 
Edit: I also can’t turn my Unity off with the push button.
Edit 2: So when I try to connect to the UI it briefly indicates it has connected on the banner on the bottom of the screen and then is flashes red saying not connected and text box comes up that says “Read Firmware Version - Could not read firmware version. Make sure that selected port really belongs to the FOCBOX.”
Edit 3: I am buying an ST-link and will try to reflash the firmware that way. I must have corrupted the firmware by writing a value that shouldn’t be written. I assume the Unity HW is fine but the FW is corrupted so the only way to re-flash would be to use an ST-Link, no? Anyways, I took a look at @DSluijk’s guide and I will be trying that out in the next week or so. I really hope I didn’t fuck up my Unity permanently… 
Edit 4: All the led’s on the board are on solid.
Edit 5: And the ST-Link flash worked like a charm!
1 Like
That’s exactly what’s happening with my focbox too, it’s just not responding to anything
It happened to me too in my case it would not power on with the standard bluetooth so i dont use it then if i wana configure my motors i have to do it while my photon uart receiver is unplugged after i finished the motor config i can plug in the receiver and it works good but if i try to do this config while receiver is plugged in i cant power of the unity by switch after 10 sec if i try to turn it of within the 10 sec it will shut down tho