Sure you guys have all seen this, but if not:
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Thanks for passing the word out Bill
I still have a shit ton of switches available!
Heck. Let me know if you need some. I’ll ship outside the country for you brother 
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Make sure the remote settings are set to UART 115200 baud. That’s what got my vx2 working
First confirm a couple things, you’re using unity with vx2 pro? the unity isn’t fully compatible for telemetry for the vx2 with the black and white screen. If it is the vx2 pro, you got the version for vesc4, not 6 correct? Then if all that is right, and you are connected via uart to the unity, you need to use the focbox TOOL app, not the UI. go in the tool app and change remote to uart/nunchuck. Set baud to 115200 and you should get full control and telemetry.
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Thanks man!
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I’m good, but appreciated!
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I’m getting poor braking performance on my unity. I’m running 23.46 firmware. Raptor 2.1 electronics and mechanics as seen in the pic
IMG_20200119_183136_734|499x499
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Not sure what type of remote you have if it has a speed mode selection check that. I accidentally hit mine and almost ran into my garage. Reduced my braking at 75%. I have the Nano remote.
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80A motor max each
80 Brake motor max each
70A batt max
15A regen max
I just options for exponential function, power function and polynomial function. I was thinking of switching back to 2 Focboxes and running Ackmaniac firmware for more control, I’ve felt more performance with them.
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Increase braking regen max to -25A, what battery you have. On the unity this value needs to be increased more than in dual focboxes. I alsost crashed several times due to weak brakes until I changed that value.
What battery do you have?
I have a 10s4p Samsung 30Q so max charge rate per cell is 4a
I’d say don’t worry about maximum charge until 20A regen, algorithm has changed on the Unity, dual focboxes had way more braking force at really low current like -10A or -12A, the Unity needs more current to brake properly. Be careful with the board if you decide to mantain 15A of regen, the board will have really weak brakes and might cause an injury if you ride on traffic.
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I run -40a on a 10s6p 30Q pack.
That 4a charge rating is for continuous charging. During braking you will be dumping max regen current only for a few seconds tops. It won’t overheat the cells anymore than during acceleration.
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They are the same actually.
For focbox the number is per ESC, in the unity it’s for the entire system.
So -20 regen on unity is the same as -10 on focbox.
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30Q can sink 6A per cell at even near full charge levels. I set between 6 to 6.5a of regen per cell for 30Q packs on various decks with no issues at all. Could probably go higher even but might start pushing it at 8A
The risk is not actually the current back to the cells, you could probably hit 30Qs with 10a+ and it would just shorten it’s lifespan, but the system voltage might spike to dangerous levels, beyond what the ESC can handle, and then you have issues. The lower the battery voltage, the more regen it can handle before voltages goes past full charge levels.
So took my enclosure apart to pair my new remote. Everything worked great. I powered my unity off. Put my enclosure back together and now it wont power on.
So I took it back apart . my power switch light stopped working a couple weeks ago so I figured it was the switch I jumped the power using my tweezers no dice. My receiver blinks but the unity is doa. So I started disassembling it took the BT MODULE off and tried again nothing. I check and their isnt any moisture or scotch marks. It has the last release of firmware. And it has worked perfectly until now. I have maytech vescs as a backup so I can still skate . just stumped any ideas 
@longhairedboy @mmaner @Chibatterysystems
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