Based from the specs:
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- Max voltage: 20S (90V，safe for 80V)
Would that mean I’m gambling whenever I’m at full charge (84v) since it says it safe for 80V but rated for 90v? 
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Nah. It’ll work. A bunch of members here have had no problem.
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I think it’s relatively few of us (I have had no problems but I’m at very low voltages) and at least one person had it detonate on first or second use
Edit: This is the example I mentioned
Cc @newbiee
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Oh shit I didn’t see that. I thought it was working for him
Yikes. I have a 20s8p P42A pack and the guy you mentioned has 20s7p. Kinda scary. Any other suggestions for turning it off? Or loop key is the way?
So I think the p groups shouldn’t be a huge issue, there’s two rough ways to kill one of these. 1 is sustained load, and unless you’re using the big pack to get quite high constant currents this might not be an issue at all. I’m mentioning it because it depends more on the use case than the battery. Mooch has some nice detailed info on this specific device here, might help or it might be a bit over the top
Number 2 is inrush current (the thing that usually causes a spark) and that is largely dictated by the size of the capacitors in the ESC I think, plus the modenof operation of whatever antispark solution you use. Not sure how technical you care to get, but the short version is an uncharged capacitor acts loosely like a short circuit momentarily because it can take crazy high currents at the start of charging it up and the current quickly drops towards zero as it approaches full charge of. ESCs have a fairly big capacitance that need to be charged up, so if your antispark is designed well to slow charge these capacitors you’re fine. Unfortunately I don’t have any great insight here, mooch made a comment in point 8 of the post I linked above about how there’s no obvious red flags in this device but he also hasn’t got a huge amount to comment on.
I have it on 20S4P but didn’t abuse it so far. Seams to be pretty solid though. But yeah it’s FS…
I run the 75100 without AS and use an ANT BMS instead to turn it on and off.
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Which current rating ant did you get to be able to run it in the discharge path, do you remember how much you paid for it, and how’s the experience with the app been? I’ve found them really interesting but haven’t seen many people here using them
I swapped to just unplugging it all through my qs10 connectors after it blew because it failed open… Then my esc blew because of too many amps lol, so waiting on replacements
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I have 3 ANT BMS in 40A 80A und 300A. They cost between 70€-120€. There are 2 Apps VBMS and Smart BMS. Both are just fine. You need to buy the VBMS app though.
80A vs 300A
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That’s perfect thanks, great to know. I think I’m gonna grab one or two the next time a paycheck is looking too safe and secure
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Wait…
They almost quadruple the current rating but only double the number of FET’s? I hope they’re using much, much better FETs on the 300A model and not the same ones as on the 80A one.
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I’m quite sure the 80A is good for way over 100A.
The FETs are rated for 15A IIRC.
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A lot depends on how they define their ratings. 80A or 300A continuous or for a few seconds? If not continuous then how long do you need to let it cool before running it again for a few seconds?
I’m sure the 80A model can be run by some at 100A. Some will only occasionally pulse it for a short time at that high a current level. But how much is that stressing the FETs? How much is the reliability and life of the device being affected? What about someone who runs it at 100A for much longer times?
Ratings are set for FETs operating individually, no other hot FETs nearby, and on a certain size and configuration of PCB copper. Those FETs are placed much closer together than any rating specs out.
Another issue…
At 300A the FETs are creating a little more than 14 times more heat than what occurs at 80A. The FET drivers are also working harder and switching the (greater number of) FETs slower. This causes even more heat.
Only doubling the number of FETs and placing them on an already hot PCB doesn’t sufficiently address this huge increase in heating.
I’m sure many people have used these ESC’s successfully at high power levels. That has nothing to do with the ratings though and how the reliability of these devices is affected by the ratings.
I have nothing against these ESC’s. I just think that there are ratings games being played here, something all too often done.
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Not to metion the belly to belly mounting. Heat dissipation on that thing must be beyond shite.
Just give us the partname and we will be able to tell you if it can do 300A with that many fets 
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I spy a small precharge circuit tho, so not all bad
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This is the wrong thread to discuss it since it is a BMS.
You can read here more about it if you want.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=88676&start=975
Sounds like work 
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yes it overheat very well lol! Flipsky 75100 Full telemetry on Escoot Xtron X30⚡5000W & 60V 🚀No Commentary 🤫 Overheating is real 😖 - YouTube
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