20S antispark ? - AS150 gets blown

Awesome work dude! I’m planning an 18s build and will need antispark connectors so now I know what to use! Cheers!

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It’s crap I blew mine in two rides! The qs8 is doing well for me rn…

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lmao I got one of those for when I want to make a 24S or larger pack.

Whats the setup?

You confirm it’s the same one “Flipsky Anti Spark Switch Aluminum pcb 300A for Electric Skateboard /Ebike/ Scooter/Robots”?

20s7p Ebike

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7p p42a?

Ofc :kissing_closed_eyes:

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you my friend should get the maytech 300A antispark, I have bought my second one after having one on my DIY fluxx board, never had a single issue, using the second one for the a DIY e-bike project.

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From the product page…

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Well I have had so far no issues with it during regenerative breaking, might just be a disclaimer.

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56 volts, or 56 volts?

Always confusing whether they’re using ebike jive or not.

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Yeah. Where’s those fucking standards… :roll_eyes:

What voltage you at?

I vote for Volt = kg·m2·s−3·A−1 but some people prefer otherwise. IDK :man_shrugging:

The exact same battery can be called 42V or 36V depending on who is typing. Idiotic.

I just want volts that taste like real volts.

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66 volt 18s setup, never had any issues, maybe with high reflow amps it could be an issue frying the anti spark, but yet again never had a single issue so far, been reliable as all hell

18S is usually 75.6V

66V is ebike jive

Peak volt is 75.6V, I usually calculate with the average charge I have in real life.

But when it comes to what components can handle or actual design considerations, only actual battery voltage matters. The kg·m2·s−3·A−1 type of voltage.

An abstract “lead acid equivalency” or “nominal voltage” or “mid-charge approximation” is not useful for that, and seems to cause confusion.

Your antispark solution needs to be rated for and able to handle actual volts.

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