I’m going to increase the charging port hole diameter and wrap the charge port in kapton tape. Hopefully eliminating any potential contact issues with the carbon fiber. I’ve got the insulator on the outside and heat shrink wrapped both terminals on the inside.
I’ve charged another 48 batteries (bought enough for 2 boards three months ago) to 4.20V give or take ± 0.02 using the LiitoKala charger and plan to rebuild the battery tomorrow with them.
I couldn’t find a way to jump two ports on the BMS to charge one 4 pack at a time within my soldering / connecting abilities. The space between pins is pretty tight and I figured I’d screw it up at some point and short something. Better safe than sorry I suppose.
Hopefully, when I get the battery re-built with balanced cell packs the BMS charges and works as planned! I’ll post results either way
So I rebuilt the battery and put in fully charged cells today. BMS listed everything at 4.17… 4.16… and I rode for an hour or so to where they now read 3.8 and some change. All within 0.05V of one another.
Still can’t get it to charge. I read a Voltage of 50.2 from battery positive to C-. And a Voltage of 46.2 from battery positive to B-. Should they be different?
I unplugged sensor wires, etc. Still get the same results. Charger indicates it’s fully charged and BMS says it’s charging but doesn’t seem like anything is happening?
It says “temperature below charging temperature limit” and it reads “-30°”
I assume you don’t have the thermistors plugged, so i’d try deactivating the temperature protection in the configuration tab of the BMS.
Also, stupid question, but have you tryed hitting the “charging” button ? I had a smart BMS that wanted to be said to get to charge mode every single time
I have a feeling I know what’s wrong…
Did you plug in the temp sensors into the BMS?
Your app shows they are both at -30°C. If the temp sensors are not connected, the BMS won’t turn on charging.
Connect them and it should work. There is a way around them if you don’t have them tho.
Go into settings and disable the temp sensors or change the limit for the temp sensors. Also turn on charging
But the fact he gets to different voltage reading before and after the BMS ticks me, most of the time it means bad connection somewhere between the p-groups
@MarkVa1
When you do connect the BMS, try 1) connecting just the battery leeds without the balance leeds, and mesure the voltage after BMS
2)then plug the balance and mesure again
Edit: i’d try also mesuring the difference between the pgroups manually and not only relying on the bms readings
I think it is because he had the charger plugged in while measuring. The 50,2V comes from the charger and the 46,2 is the actual battery voltage. They are different because the bms locked charging.
Thanks guys! You’re the best! I didn’t realize the BMS came with temperature sensors and they were not plugged in. Plugged them in and it seems to be working quite well now. What a relief. I feel a bit stupid for not remembering the BMS came with two small black wires but that’s probably more of an organizational issue for me
Added a stabilizing bar to the front trucks tonight. From riding around the pressure from the hex nuts / lock washers on the octagonal couplings isn’t enough to keep them from misaligning and skewing the front one side or the other after a few miles of riding. Hopefully this bar will help prevent the misalignment from occurring. On future builds I’ll probably put two bars opposite one another to provide more stability. But clearance around the bushing washers is an issue…
Took it apart today and replaced the batteries with Molicel P26A and added some LED lights. The lights fit well, just needed to drill some holes in the aluminum base plate and run the wiring. Didn’t get to ride in complete darkness due to storms, but the Molicels make a huge difference with braking. Just a much better overall ride. Had the helmet on - might have even reached 25 mph … I can foresee a daredevil future…
I’ve tried to copy Ron Paulk from his YouTube channel for his mobile workshop. He’s very organized and functional and I’m the exact opposite. Maybe some day I’ll learn to clean as I go, but probably not!
I’m in the process of making my own board. The one I made for my son is working well, but the 8mm threaded rods bend under impact with my 220 lb load. Basically, any hard sidewalk joint or bump hit at speed causes the rod to bend just outside of the octagonal coupling. Still rides OK, but gives the wheels an inward bend… But it supports my son fine as he’s about 160 lbs. Switching out the rods isn’t a big deal… but he’s tired of me bending them
So I’m going with pneumatics and a 16 mm threaded rod and using 6904-2RS bearings (37mm OD / 20mm ID). This supports a 4mm wide sleeve between the rod and bearing. I like the fatter tires from XCELL, so my rims are 94mm dia and 52mm wide. Hopefully get some soon when their next batch arrives. If I machine everything right, the aluminum cross bar will screw into the truck and stabilize it - right now it tends to try and rotate the motor plates due to the torque from the belts. I’m using some zip ties at the moment to stop that - hopefully this solves that issue.
Got the first wheel done, just need to make three more
Couple other different items, going with the MakerX DV6 Pro instead of Flipsky… planning on a Hoyt puck or something similar / DIY… Trying to see if I can have space for the DaVega, but the lights I like take up the top of the front and back trucks… And some LEDs around the side per Maxkogo system… I’ve had good luck with the Flipsky 190kV motors but am looking at alternatives as well. Gonna go with the 21700 Molicels as well instead of 18650 but still use the @Winfly battery holders with braided wire. I mill those from Delrin versus 3D printing.
This will for sure make an awesome 2nd build! Lots of premium parts here. Flipsky battle hardened 6374s are some of the best bang for your buck these days - doubt you will find much better.
If I may suggest an alternative on the battery holders - look into NESE battery modules:
Thanks. I did look into those and they seem to work well. My only concern with the 3D printed holders from @Winfly was the print included a small nub above the battery terminals. The concept seemed to be the screws into the nylon holders would put pressure on these nubs to help ensure a secure connection of the braided tin wire to the terminals. By milling on my CNC out of Delrin, I have a threaded hole above the terminals for a set screw. I think that puts good pressure on the braided tin wire at the terminal location. Haven’t had any set screws loosen or become an issue with my current battery so I’ll stick to this…
Stunning work, fantastic. The ascetic is perfect. It was a hard call between this and the cyboard,for me ,this slightly edged it , but I’m a knob. If I had this type of skill I’d never leave the work shop. Is it hard to not just hang it on a wall and stare at it? Bravo
… I can foresee a daredevil future… 
