Regular modules with 3D printed shock absorbing mounts
~1200kms done(last pic)
custom modules
~700kms done
I didn’t enjoy drilling so many holes and inserting the rubber mounts. Next time i’ll just use multiple layers of double sided tape and route the balancing wires form the sides.
Tagging people to show off their builds: @ryansinatra, @gmurad, @visnu777 , @rey8801 , @Redeye, @Winfly . Tag people if I have missed anyone.
Custom module by @mishrasubhransu and slightly modified to fit the deck
4kms done then the deck broke 
Cells are packed since months. New version of deck will come :crossed 
I’m still working out ideas for a TPU printed enclosure to protect the nese modules. Even though your exposed battery packs look clean, it’s too wet too often where I live.
I won’t be working on my battery packs until December as @Agniusm has some hardware on back order. It’s all good for me though timing wise, as I’m working in the States the next two weeks and picking up parts while I’m here.
@mishrasubhransu what rims are on your 2nd build?
I will put together a post when I get home tonight 
thanks for tagging me
I really like the look of the first battery pack, I might do this on my next board rather than going the spot welding route, this doesn’t take up too much more space and I think the anti vibration mounting is super neat. Is it in the 10s5p configuration? If so, what are your current settings for how much you draw on a normal ride?
Yes, that’s 10S5P. I use them with 58KV(87mOhm) elofty motors. Dual motor and per motor I have set -15/+45 battery current. But when I check my metr pro logs I see that I am consuming a max of 30Amps total battery current.
Instead of those vibration mounting options you should use mount using multiple layers of double sided tape. Those are hella strong and would provide vibration isolation without the annoyance of drilling and mounting those vibration proofing standoffs.
Oh dope. I assume they are 30Q cells as well? I didn’t see the inscription
Edit: acually I can tell they aren’t 30Q cuz they aren’t pink?
4 X 25R and 1 similar capacity cell from imrbatteries.
But 5P is waste of the NESE tabs. I would recommend that you go for 10S4P or 12S4P setup with 21700 or 20700 cells for better capacity. Because the tabs come as 8P groups which can be split into 4P and 4P.
Ah gotcha. Good shout, I run 12s1p lipos, and I wouldn’t want to lose my performance so I would probably be looking at 12s4p
My NESE battery is a bit unique, because I think I am the only one so far that ended up with a top mount build.
I had originally planned on using my 10s3p NESE as a flat pack in my switchblade build.
I quickly realized that my space was going to be a bit too limited to use this pack, so I finished this build with a 30q 10s4p flat welded @Psychotiller pack and began to brainstorm how I could put this NESE to good use.
I had been wanting an off-road build for sometime, but I wanted to keep the price down. I had heard good things about the @dickyho AT kit. I wanted to use a drop down deck I had (landyachtz switch eagle) so I knew I probably had to top mount my battery.
The first part of making this all work out was to rebuild the NESE battery into a cube shaped pack, which was pretty simple actually.
Then iI had to design a 3d printed top mount case for it, which was also a fun challenge
The inside of the box is lined with neoprene foam to help with vibrations. So far I’ve had no issues, and I like that I can easily inspect my p group voltages if I have any concerns. I open the box from time to time to check on everything 
wow, super clean build!
Thank you much 
Would you by any chance have the files for these? From the look of it, these are sshorter as they avoid the screws which would be perfect for my build.
sure will send you later. I have it in Fusion. They are sligthly modified from the @mishrasubhransu ones to better fit my deck and have better compression. Plus added material on long side (since I had space anyway).
Cheers! Was planning on mounting mine vertically as well due to width limits when mounting 2s4p horizontally…
2s4p https://a360.co/2qO7QEe
1s4p https://a360.co/2OHY7Hz
Printed PETG, 6 top-bottom-walls and 100.8% dimension if I remember correctly.
they go with m3 10mm screw I think.
This is going to give me about 60mm more length compared to original NESE to fit in other parts! Actually solved the headache of having to use a small VESC and can instead use normal sized ones. Thanks a lot! Also big thanks to @mishrasubhransu for his base model.
Yeh same reason why we used this one. To me you can go even more thinner in height but this model is really sturdy.
If you see the model the long walls are curve inside. You want them just get straight once the cells are compressed inside. Try to print one at 100.8% dimension with the settings I told you and see if the walls are correct. If the make an outer arc then you have to modify the dimension in the printing setting (for fine adjustment) or in the model itself making it longer or shorter. It depends on filament, printer, enclosure ecc… So run some test before print them all
What @rey8801 based his designs on were the older versions of my design had the walls curved to provide compression but due to design oversight(the curving of walls started too soon) the corners were too tight. And he has to resort to printing at larger scale at hence defeated the improved compression that we wanted.
I corrected that problem and made other changes(like reducing stress in corners to reduce stress etc) to perfect the design. The latest design can be found in my thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6652531
Sidescrew_2S4P_curvedwall_base.stl
Just for notice, I think this module are slightly shorter than the original you made ( at least ocmpare the one I got) and a bit wider in the short side since I increased material there. I changed the corners as well andd the distance between the 2 sides. Also moved the wall to the lid because is much easier to install it to me and the tabs output is on the long side too. those the mods I have done for my board design.
