[Serious] Post your NESE builds showing the pack and mounting style

Regarding the dimensions, the latest ones are as compact as they can be and the walls providing compression are thicker too.

Regarding the parallel group separator it has a wide base and is very strong and disconnected from the side walls. I also addressed the issue that you were not able to put the tabs in without bending them.

I have used this design in the pic below. The one in thingiverse is flat.

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I see a lot of people having NESE builds, so this is a bump to the top.
Don’t be shy, I already showed mine, now show yours. <- this goes in creepy reply thread right?

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Here’s my current modified NESE build.
12s4p molicel p42a. I used 21700 nese hardware without the 3d printed parts
I soldered 12awg flexible wire for series connections.
I siliconed the nese hardware into the enclosure with jigs that are slightly shorter than the cells.

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This is really interesting. I hope that it can handle flex all while maintaining contact.

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That’s why I used 10awg silicone wire loops for series connections. Plenty of flex.

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Don’t have it yet but I’ve been playing with Shapr3D to see the best configuration for the Neo One Deck. I settled on 10s2p since this build is meant to test out Push Assist Mode:

For future Reference and other Neo One Deck Owners this takes 3x 2s3p NESE Modules but you’ll assemble them as 3s2p. the last module is a 2p to make it 10s. You can also go for 12s2p by adding one more 2s3p and setting it up as a 3s2p.

The 12s2p config works best with 21700 cells (note the length of the module makes it difficult to use Standard Hardware. You’ll need to use the Shallow hardware). One caveat of using this configuration is that the negative terminal and positive terminal are on opposite ends:

When using 21700 modules you’ll have to use flat copper since the space left between he deck walls (and lid) and the enclosure isn’t going to fit the needed AWG.

With 18650 modules, the space left is good enough for around 13mm of space I believe using Standard Hardware.

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12s8p in a brick that fits in a Pelican iM2050 for my eMTB.

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Pretty sure he means flex causing the tabs to loose contact with the cells, not the flex breaking your series connections. What enclosure is that?

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Yes exactly. That’s what I meant by maintaining contact.

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Here’s my 10S4P arrangement on the EVO deck using 2S4P modules. The deck is getting narrow towards the tail and wouldn’t be able to accommodate all modules in the “horizontal” position.

The series are connected with short M4 bolts and lock-nuts.

To attach the modules to the deck, I just used screws. M3x20 work well.

I have done around 60km with that setup including some very bumpy offroad tracks and it’s been holding up well so far. (The screws in the picture are actually M4x20. I didn’t have M3 on hand at that time. M4 also work but not ideal since they don’t sink into the countersunk hole enough to be flush with the top.)

I haven’t installed a BMS yet. I wanted to make sure everything is working well first. I’ve been checking the series voltages manually so far. And unfortunately, I’m having problems with bad contacts in some modules. I already replaced one (the red/blue housing) and there are still issues on other two modules. I plan to take it all apart and re-adjust the tabs. I didn’t pre-bend them so some may not be in the ideal position.

I have a double-stack enclosure for this deck which is half empty with this setup. I may try double stacking the NESE modules once I have sorted out the bad contact problems. It’s a hair short of fitting but should work with ~5mm enclosure gasket.

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Clever arrangement!

What do you mean by bad contacts? When you printed the modules, was it easy to push the cells in? What material is the box printed in?

It looks as though that some cells intermittently loose the contact their parallel group. For example, when charging, some P-groups get higher than others temporarily. However, after letting it sit for a while, they equalize. My interpretation of this is that the group temporarily acts as 3P and thus its voltage increases faster when charging. The fourth cell still probably has a little bit of contact though and eventually gets charged from its 3 neighbor cells.

I don’t have a 3D printer and I had a friend print these for me. I believe the material is PETG. When inserting the cells, it required a little bit of force (as it should, I think).

In the module that I replaced, there was apparently a bad contact in on the cell at the edge. As I mentioned, misaligned tabs may be the culprit since I didn’t really pay attention to pre-bending and aligning the tabs when assembling the modules. I only discovered that I should have done it when looking for info about what I could have done wrong.

Edit: Looking at the pics of the open modules in detail, you can notice that some tabs are getting away from the cell near the edge due to the lack of pre-bending.

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Even the slightest of contact would equalize the cells very rapidly. So I think something else might be happening. Are you using a balance charger to charge them? Could it happen that the balance charger is equalizing the cells? If you think some cells are not making contact then try adding few paper layers or foam layers to increase compression.

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I charge with a “brick” charger. No balancing. I don’t even have balance leads connected at the moment. So no balancing.

I’ll take it apart and check each cell. Thanks for the paper layer tip. I may indeed give that a try. :+1:

Have you checked your module dimensions? The foam does not look sufficiently compressed. Also, when before inserting tab, bend the tip by 30 degrees

That’s an eboosted enclosure for hs11.

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That’s what I was pointing at. You should see the foam compress to it’s limits. If that’s not happening then use additional material to create further compression.

The width is 74.45mm without the lid. You have 74.2mm on your website so it seems mine are a tad bigger than they should be. Is the 0.25mm difference really something to be worried about though?

Will try that. Thanks. Not sure if I can really squeeze in more stuff. On some modules, I already had hard time getting all the cells in. After inserting the last cell, another cell would pop out. When I pushed that one in, yet another would pop out and so on…

I suppose that as the width of the box expands, the length of the box contracts slightly as a result.

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Wait. That so weird. That means they don’t all have good compression at the same time. Difference in height of cells will do that. Are the cells new? Meaning they don’t have the spot welding marks that might cause the heights to be non-uniform?