DemonGeese | Semendeed | 21s4p | 2x D100s | 4wd

Alright another round of tests I was briefly happy for a sec. I bumped the amps back up to 65A front for all these tests.

TL;DR I traded one overcurrent for another scarier one. Or maybe the second one always existed but I hadn’t gotten to it yet.

I tried dropping the detection time constant as mentioned here by @Fatglottis:

But unfortunately that didn’t help.

Next I tried traction control mentioned by @glyphiks and started at 7500 diff ERPM mentioned in @Titoxd1000 post. And wow I was surprised that actually helped. Today I did also notice the wheel spin happens toe side more than heel side so traction control really helped. I dropped it to 5000 ERPM diff which further reduced the wheel spin.

I was at this point able to start hitting sub 2 sec launches, was feeling good.

Then the best time yet and fuuuuuuck I faulted under load at 20-25 mph.


You can see above where the last fault happens at ~74k RPM.

I tried dropping the amps to 60A but I don’t have to tell you my confidence was a bit shattered and I just didn’t have it in me anymore today. Times went back to shit.

At this point idk. Two more things I’m thinking of trying. One try going, sensorless and two replace the front motors with my old 225KV ones. I guess third option is to send them in to @YUTW123 but damn AVS around the corner.

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I have half a mind to set fault time to 5 ms and say fuuuuuuck itttttt.

Also, yeah I think pentagrams were causing me a bit of vibrations above 30mph. But there’s another very subtle vibration there I think it’s the motor doing something.

Arghdigknrfifmnrjfkdmenfksnwn… #DIYLyfe

what is your fault stop time set too? How was it handling/discovering the faults?

50ms. On launch honestly it’s not that bad I can feel it let go but manageable. Due to the wheel spin I forgot it was even happening till I checked the logs. At higher speeds on 3 links it’s still manageable not going to throw me unless I’m startled and let off throttle or something. On my Northcamp it happened around 40mph but was more like a blip that at the time I chalked up to road debris. But enough to notice and I’m kinda like maybe I don’t even want to notice.

David (@YUTW123) also first mentioned 300A absolute max current so I’m wondering if I go back to 5.3 can I up it to 300 instead. Is it a FW thing? I know some say it’s a hardware thing so idk.

Mine are currently at 75ms. I think i’m gonna drop mine down to 50ms before I push that board again. despite @Deodand’s warnings.

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the setting is limmited byt he hardware conf in the code. which should be tuned to the capabilities of the hardware. but… perhaps someone was being conservative? I was wondering this as well. people taking it on their own to pass those limits i think is what the “no limits” variants of the firmware builds are for.

Yeah I think the logic here is that most of us would rather blow the esc than get thrown and super hurt. Since you’re likely to hit it more often the time it blows.

Hmm idk if I want to use no limits.

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Ok so you got me thinking the last time @jaykup did a diff it was mostly settings for detection, the MakerX FW. And when we flash FW I don’t believe any of the set settings change, maybe someone can confirm @ShutterShock/@Evwan/@glyphiks (?).

So, now that I already have my settings, what if flash no limits and just change that one setting. @YUTW123?

It asks you if you want to restore default settings on fw change. I never trust it to do what it says its going to do tho

I concur with this usually flashing firmware erases settings

I save motor and app config, for reference and to reload them.

IIUC restoring defaults comes from the hwconf, so i assume the nolimits firmware will set lots of wrong defaults.

The amps seem high for the front. Imo you should aim for 40/60 power split under acceleration and 60/40 under braking due to weight distribution. If your 70amps rear that would be 45amps front. Maybe you can increase amps in the rear/total.

Since your faults seem to be from loosing traction on both wheels now, I wonder if ramp time or another setting can limit how fast unloaded wheels are able to spin up in order to not spike when you regain traction. What is your ramp time setting?

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hmm, would it work like that? I suspect that’s a throttle input ramp thing, not an actual current ramp thing.

Hmm I forgot about that, the thought had crossed my mind.

It’s currently exponential 20%/-12%

The traction control seems to have taken care of the launch. I don’t know if it’ll also fix the one happening down the line. But everything is worth a shot at this point.

ramp time is the .4 pos, .2 neg thing

i have mine set to .24 .18?

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Yeah I think your right. Ramp time only would limit the current. I don’t see any setting for rpm changes.

@zero_ads play with the front/rear power bias and also your stance

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at this point, another measure i mitht mess with is Max Wattage output limit thingy

just math it out to be just below the ABS max or something

anything to give me headroom for spikage

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Yeah lowering the amps has somewhat proved it should work, but I can definitely feel the lack in pull/torque. Guess I’ll have to try and up the back maybe aim for 55A/80A or 60A/90A.

Hmm now that’s an interesting idea :bulb:

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This would also allow me to play with things and not have to open it up for now. I’ll have to look at how to calculate it.