so maybe that’s what got me
Yeah I’m thinking what if I had lowered it on the Northcamp lol. I also payed around with having phase filter on/off didn’t seem to make a difference.
So is it throwing OC’s because its using the the 4 total escs amps but only for what the dual max current can do?
Say max is 250a for the makers dual, but running 2 duals you should be fine at getting up over 400a.
Seems like a 4wd fw glitch to me
I might be wrong, but i don’t think the faults care about the combined total amps, only ‘per esc’ amps.
It seems fucky to me too. Those be some low amps really to be getting overcurrent faults.
Have you tried traction control @zero_ads ?
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funniest thing
i was playing with that last nigth, and i’m always thinking i blew up the can 
my motors were dusty so when they do tha grgrgrgrgrggrgr reee
it let off a poof and i got scared i fried my motors lol
but it’s just fine dust
but, i had turned off filters on on one side, had em on on the other
the filters off caused problems with the motors spinning
so i set them to all off
none of the motors spun
but, u gavent updated and i gavent tried redetecting
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They’re not currently connected over CAN cause I think I damaged that so, think of each as it’s own. But I think @glyphiks is right they don’t care about total just per side.
This is a fault print out from just one side back when I had it set to 200A abs max l, you can see the spike is for 215A thus over current.
I could try this next, but I think I’m hitting faults on both sides and traction control would help more when one side is different from the other I think? I forget who posted it recently but I’ll have to find that post. Might’ve been @Titoxd1000…
https://forum.esk8.news/t/lemme-see-them-drag-race/78607/143?u=zero_ads
Here it is. The setup would be similar to mine independent front and rear. I could try something similar and give it a shot, and play with the ERPMs.
When I was guessing amps the other day I thought you were running 100+ into those 54’s. Like Al was saying 50 is super conservative. I’ve got my fronts turned way down to 62 motor 12.5 battery @16s but they still spin a lot if you just mash it. Ive never had an abs overcurrent fault with the d75’s (16s 173kv) though, which makes me assume it’s an erpm thing. Losing traction would make it spike harder than any other situation.
It’s a pity that canbus is playing up, I haven’t tried it but can’t you set the differential between front and rear?
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If CAN was working maybe I could do that. Also, I need to make sure traction control isn’t going to brake, cause that sounds scary. Never used it before. Otherwise I suppose I could do some sort of cross setup, where front left and rear right vice versa were connected. But idk.
I suppose one thing I haven’t tried is just removing all the sensors and see if those are faulty or at least the front sensors.
Yeah just try hfi maybe.
I think traction control is just gonna not let one motor’s ERPM get higher than the traction control erpm delta over any other motor. so the guess here is that that would prevent the shock from free spin and then grip again.
394A over a 214A filtered seems like a big short spike.
What’s the gearing on this setup? 21s - 11/78T @ 205kv ?
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Yeah but my fear is that both front wheels are free spinning so it may not matter since both end up faulting… I think. Although, I only notice the front right spinning when I’m launching. Still worth a shot for sure.
Gearing is 11t/67t 205kv on 21s
yeah. could experiment with awd traction control. …
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your other spikes above are also close to 2x over filtered. which i’m assuming to be the “slow abs” number. and whatever interval it’s averaging over… the high water mark is double the average. i wonder how short that interval is.
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Yeah not sure how that works. I guess we can’t change that interval either.
Alright another round of tests I was briefly happy for a sec. I bumped the amps back up to 65A front for all these tests.
TL;DR I traded one overcurrent for another scarier one. Or maybe the second one always existed but I hadn’t gotten to it yet.
I tried dropping the detection time constant as mentioned here by @Fatglottis:
But unfortunately that didn’t help.
Next I tried traction control mentioned by @glyphiks and started at 7500 diff ERPM mentioned in @Titoxd1000 post. And wow I was surprised that actually helped. Today I did also notice the wheel spin happens toe side more than heel side so traction control really helped. I dropped it to 5000 ERPM diff which further reduced the wheel spin.
I was at this point able to start hitting sub 2 sec launches, was feeling good.
Then the best time yet and fuuuuuuck I faulted under load at 20-25 mph.
You can see above where the last fault happens at ~74k RPM.
I tried dropping the amps to 60A but I don’t have to tell you my confidence was a bit shattered and I just didn’t have it in me anymore today. Times went back to shit.
At this point idk. Two more things I’m thinking of trying. One try going, sensorless and two replace the front motors with my old 225KV ones. I guess third option is to send them in to @YUTW123 but damn AVS around the corner.
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I have half a mind to set fault time to 5 ms and say fuuuuuuck itttttt.
Also, yeah I think pentagrams were causing me a bit of vibrations above 30mph. But there’s another very subtle vibration there I think it’s the motor doing something.
Arghdigknrfifmnrjfkdmenfksnwn… #DIYLyfe
what is your fault stop time set too? How was it handling/discovering the faults?