could I add mounting pieces on the other side then? After the head of the bolt? It seems like the motor pulley cover part of the box leaves more room. Or maybe ill make a piece that sandwiches the gear box like this… Would you advise against any of this due to it affecting the drive in any way?
Also, would it be possible to get the model for this so I can design the curve of my mount to sit flush on top of the drive?
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If you wanted to design it like that, put a spacer and a washer on the bolt before it goes into the gearbox. Design the printed part to fit on that spacer, throw a rubber ring on there to take up space maybe. (between the printed part and washe)
I realize that bolt is right next to two more so it would be fine if it was not bearing much load due to the 3D printed part, so what I said is more or less unnecessary.
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I added 106km from saturday, sunday and monday alone. I don’t keep track that better, i just know that a normal day sees me doing 22-28km and weekend joyrides between 30 and 50km.
Not even sure where all that distance goes lol.
Took an industrial street end to end yesterday at 55-65km/hr and before 5 minutes i made the full length of 5.5km
Btw 1000-1200, not 1000-2000
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Even with all the washers potentially nailed, there is just so much axle poking out of the whole assembly. 70mm bolts are more appropriate for bergs in my opinion
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Yeah, I think also not enough for the moon gear drive.
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90’s exist though
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You want 54mm exposed axle. Excluding threads
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Randal 35 deg downhill baseplate, $14 comes with pivot cup, which is nice. Kingpin is extra, fyi, for anyone trying this (offered on the Randal website, $4).
Without actually fully setting this up and riding it, I’ll give my impressions:
I would not try to swap the pivot cup that the BN baseplate comes with into the Randal baseplate. The ODs are too far off. If I were to use this, I’d get the Riptide pivot cup, ($14 for 2) designed for Randal baseplates. There is a little extra slop between the stock Randal pivot cup and the BN hanger ball end, but that may be cured by a Riptide pivot cup.
(Brad at Riptide was not interesting in speculating on the combination of BN + Randal + Riptide. Too many variables at play. So no answers there.)
Otherwise, it seems like a good solution to solving the effective clearance issues while getting a 5 deg increase in baseplate angle stability, if you’re not interested in drilling new adjustment holes like I did. And the Randal baseplate near the kingpin is much tighter, so you should have plenty of clearance with 63XX motor cans.
The only downside to this setup is that you’ll likely have to run extra (flat) riser pads to gain motor-to-deck clearance unless your deck has the right cutouts/design. But that’s usual stuff.
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Boardnamics M1 Drive - Rough Model - v3.step (2.3 MB)
I just finished measuring my gear drive parts and updating this model. There were some geometry inaccuracies in v2. It should be plenty accurate enough for 3d printed guards now.
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Thanks for the tag! I may be able to shed some light on the pivot cup situation. This week I received a 35 degree Randal DH baseplate as well as a 42 degree RII. I also took delivery of Riptide Randal 96a pivot cups from @RipTideSports.
I am using BN 187mm hangers on this build. The stock Randal cups ‘work’ but the fit is a tiny bit on the loose side. The Riptide cups apart from feeling MUCH smoother due to higher quality PU have the same outside diameter as the stock cups with an ever so slightly tighter inner diameter. The fit feels about perfect to me now. I think the Riptide cups are worth the upgrade.
Switching from 50 degrees to 35 let me move up a hole on the BN motor mounts and I gained some MUCH needed motor clearance to the ground. Running 63XX motors with 78mm wheels is a real balancing act.
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To clarify our reluctance to weigh in on the question, in brand swaps and overlaps your results will vary, sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. As a manufacturer, we are committed to make things that work not things that may work.
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@RipTideSports, to be clear, I meant absolutely no disrespect. 100% understandable that there are an infinite number of combinations when you include multiple 3rd parties in the equation, and you cannot begin to know the nuances of all of them. This particular question is just easier to test with the parts in hand.
You are an asset to the community just by being here and fielding all the questions about truck setup.
This is exactly the info we were missing. Nicely done @nomadic_myke . Glad to hear it’s a good combo.
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Mostly 
I’ll be designing some bash guards as well, and needed the case outline more precise. As well as fastener locations. Your model was a big help to not have to start from scratch.
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Thank you very much! But is this the same size as the M1 AT? I only need the back half to be accurate (motor pulley) and the thing changing with the AT is the mount and wheel pulley or all of it and I can’t use this?
Can confirm; I battled this with the Magnum Seed and just ended up switching to 50mm motors.
This is good to know 
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No.
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Please ignore the packing tape
Even with the 6354s it’ll still do rolling burnouts on the dirt!
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