Any part making contact with the hanger that is not the thread itself. Clearance is really really tight which means even the thinnest cured loctite will make it unreasonably hard to remove
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Oh I see, sounds fun!..
Also seems to me very difficult to hold it with the vice on one hand and try to rotate the nut with the other 
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You grab the axle with the vice grip and keep the hanger clamped on something temperature resistant while you blowtorch the hell out of it. Don’t even need the nut, but you’re not reusing that fixed axle again
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I had the ones with no allen hole in the end too. They’re in the trash now and i use 10mm shoulder bolts. I even needed a fucking hammer to hit on the clamped vice grip to pull them out. Evil stuff
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Which chemical?
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Just blue loctite, starting with 2. It got smeared all over and blowtorch did nothing. I think it let in some road brine in there and i had all 3 salt, rust and loctite to deal with. Doesn’t help that these drives are a sponge for water as well
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Loctite 243?
Glad I didn’t use epoxy 
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Not gonna lie, I’m still confused why it needs to be removed, but you said it did, so I went with it LoL
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I think he’s using Moon drives and the axles are too short
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Actually m1’s… about 7mm of stepped axle pokes out of the drive meaning i either need to push the geardrive outwards, use one 10mm one 8mm bearing on the wheel, or just go with beefy 10mm shoulder bolts. I seriously do not think i got the right version of those fixed axles to work with geardrives
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ahh, makes more sense.
I’d have probably opted for that, barring no large issues
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On my case that’s correct. Of course I should have waited for the drives to come, test them how they fit, and only then consider to loctite the axles.
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Tried. Still pokes a bit inside the hub and no amount of washers seemed to nail the distance just right. I had bigger problems around that time though with internal tolerances and the collar bearing getting busted (for the 4th time now…).
Also gears don’t mesh cleanly
Top is acceleration bottom is braking wear. About 1000-1200km.
I’ll stop ranting now
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@Boardnamics would it be possible to order m1 at gear drive kit with longer bolts? Or do I replace them with regular m3, m4 bolts? I’d want to add a 3d printed bar connecting the two gear drives, as well as light mounts and mud guard mounts. Is it okay to add these things like this or it wouldnt be good for the gear drive in some way?
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You’ve actually put between 1000 km and 2000 km on your drives already?
Also, if you actually did, why such a large range? I know how far I’ve gone on my boards within like 10 miles
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Those bolt are m4, the way you have them in the pic you would need to use nuts on the backside or thread into plastic I guess.
Best to just order the bolts yourself.
The fenders are nice haha
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I have a kit of m4 bolts from amazon that are stainless steel and manufactured from china. Yeah id definitely add a nut mount to the plastic part. I just want to make sure this wont be doing anything to affect the gear drive in any way after long term use like with lots of vibrations? Maybe Kevin can speak to if a nut will even fit by those bolt holes? With the 6384 he has in the kit I wonder if there is room to have a longer bolt that sticks out or the motor diameter is too large where it covers the inside of the mount and those holes need to be flush with the mount.
Yes the gears do not wear that evenly. But the actual wear is very little. It looks worse than it is because the gears have a very thin layer of a darker oxide from the hardening process that easily scratches.
@Athrx The 270mm assembly is quite specific, sorry for not giving you good instructions. The new axles will simplify the assembly greatly.
10mm diameter, 60mm effective length. Big 5mm hex drive.
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