What solder are you using and what temp is your iron at?
I solder at 400F with 63/37 and after getting a bead on the nickel and a timed lead I can stick them together with about 2 seconds of heat.
Make sure you have a nice pool of solder stuck to your nickel and check that you’re using good solder.
Am going to be putting new motors on the Flux after many many happy miles… The old motors i’m going to start hobbying on ; put new bearings in (one is bad) , and fix em up 
This will sort of be my first ever experience building/repairing electronics on my esk8 
Can i leave the battery connected when doing the job, because i’ll be messing with the motorwires/connectors etc ?
The battery-connector is a bit fidly to get to, so if its safe i want to just keep it connected…
i’ve read about sparks and battery / not being a good situation 
Thanks , much appreciated !
I recommend unplugging it to be safe
Personally, I’ve left my battery connected to my ESC when working on and taking apart my hub motors. Even left it connected while cleaning the strator with vinegar then alcohol. So long as you know 100% that only the power button will turn on the controller than you’re probably fine.
That being said, in general it is a better to unplug the battery from the controller to be safe. Even more so when this is your first time working on an esk8 so it is more likely that you could make a mistake.
Taking the extra time to unplug the battery >> not doing it and frying a part.
Also not sure what you think you are going to be doing that will cause sparks 
Unrelated: what enclosure is that?
it might, but it would be way too thick to use on the magnets. I used this epoxy to re glue an entire motor’s magnets
left it in the sun in TX for 24 hours and then ended up blasting it with a hair dryer to get it to fully cure because I’m inpatient.
Hello, complete beginner here. I’m trying to connect a hub motor, esc, and battery for the first time. The esc is for two motors but my project only encorporates one. I got everything hooked up except the battery level indicator and the five wires coming out of the motor, which at the moment the purpose of which escapes me. There’s a short black wire that fell off, from where I don’t know. I turned it on and heard a beep or two. A red light came on followed by two more that blinked. The motor failed to turn when I pushed the throttle lever.
The particular project I’m trying to motorize is based on a Flowboard. If anyone can help me figure how to get it up and running I would greatly appreciate it.
These are likely motor sensors, and they’re only really used when going to “zero speed” to “nonzero speed” and don’t really do anything else. Once the motor is spinning, they are nigh useless except for the temperature sensor, in case you want to monitor motor temperature.
First thing you need to do is figure out which ESC you have, like the make and model. So either link where you bought it from or post high-res photos of both sides, someone will know what it is.
Also show a photo of the wire that fell off and your battery label.
Apologies if this has already been asked but:
Are there ways of controlling your board via duty cycle (and thus speed) instead of current (and thus by acceleration? afaik). I hate that having my remote on like 10% power still brings me to full speed. I’m using a MakerX Go FOC DV6 and the latest VESC tool, firmware 5.3.
Ok, will do. I bought the battery, controller, and enclosure a few years ago and can’t find the confirmation email. I’ll go ahead and get pics. Thanks a lot!
I seem to have lost the black wire. It was only about 5 inches long.
Also as a second question:
My Voyager (BKB) and my VESC tool’s speed information don’t match. Does anyone else have this problem? I ensured both the remote and the VESC tool have the same information.
LingYi ESC.
Black cable could’ve been the antenna
I saw a few guys reporting similar issues in the Voyager thread and if memory serves a fix was found.
Looks to be one of the cheaper/ worse LingYi ESCs too.
This is the connector for the antenna itself where that black wire should be plugged in. It would have been a super thin wire with a metal connector at the end. Normally they cover the thing in silicone so it can’t just come off on its own.
Here is what it looks like when removed (ESC died and so I used it for parts)
From what I can tell, that back and forth trace on the PCB is supposed to also act like an antenna but I’m not sure how well it works on its own. For their ESCs if I remeber correctly the LED on the power button will blink if it is not connected to a remote, and then is solid once connected. I could me mixing the two up but if you don’t see a change in that light or on any of the LEDs on the PCB then it isn’t able to connect to the remote.
Also some of the PCB leds should change when given a signal to accelerate or break from the remote. At least the LingYi ESCs I’ve had would do that when I was trouble shooting issues. Not sure if the version you have will do the same
sheesh, this lingyi is like what, from 2017?
I’m not the one with the connection issue and that entire ESC is trashed anyway. Although the connector itself is one part not ruined that is just what they look like.
It is an MHF connector. The only thing “wrong” is that I didn’t clean off all of the extra silicone on it but that doesn’t affect how well it works. Just keeps it on so you can’t accidentally unplug it.
